Oh and your other question about the hex diameter. It's 2mm. That will cover 99% of all screws on the printer, the core, the print head, under the printer, in the feeder, pretty much every screw is a 3mm screw (that's the thickness of the screw including the threads) also known as an M3 screw. Mostly "button head". And all of them have a hex 2mm socket. I like this tool:
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3088/
It may look like that link takes you to 100 different hex drivers but one of them should be highlighted.
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gr5 2,067
So you can manually heat both cores. In the menu system on the front of your printer. Look around in the menu system. Set them both to 200C and use pliers, tweezers, toothpicks, etc. Be very gentle around the two wires that come out of each heater block in the back.
Nomenclature:
The things on the back of the machine are "feeders". Your issue is called a "head flood".
You can get those silicone covers very cheap at fbrc8.com in the spare parts of their website. Something like 3 for $5.
This is a very minor version of a head flood - it can be much worse.
Consider buying a heat gun or possibly using a hair dryer (not sure if the hair dryer would work). This might be a bad idea as you don't want to melt the other plastics in the area. I've never tried either of these tools against a head flood because I've never had a head flood.
Actually I think a soldering iron where you can set the temperature to 150C would probably be helpful in cleanup. Once you get the cores out you can go at it more easily. Remember you have to retract the filament a bit before you can get those cores out.
The bowden tubes come of very easily - slide off that horseshoe clip and push down around the outer collet while pulling up on the bowden. Don't pull up on the bowden without also pushing down on the collet! I just use my fingers but needle nose pliers are better for pushing down on the collet on both sides at once.
AVOIDING HEAD FLOODS
I've never had one even with over 10 years of printing. They have 2 causes:
1) print head door flops open while printing. Test that it takes more than say 3 grams of force to open the door. If it takes less then examine the two magnets that hold the door closed. Pry them out by maybe 1/2 mm and the door should stick better.
2) part comes loose (90% of the time this is the problem). If your part is partly printed and it comes loose from the print bed *and also* the part is wider than it is tall, then it will start sliding around the bed like a hockey puck on ice. So the nozzle is stuck in one spot of your part and filament is still coming out. For hours. The filament only has one place to go at some point and that is back into the print head.
So learn how to have your part NEVER EVER COME LOOSE FROM THE GLASS. I have a video on how to get your parts to stick very very well. It's a long video but packed with info:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k
In the video I even pick up the entire printer by lifting on a tiny part the size of a vertical thumb. If you are doing active leveling then concentrate on the sections that discuss "brim" and "glue" and cleaning off any oils (from your fingers) and dust on the print bed.
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