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So there are many possible causes of horizontal banding.
temp
One is temperature swings if the nozzle is 5C hotter for one layer then it will extrude a bit more and a layer sticks out. Then if a layer is 5C cooler it will stick in.
z movement
But the most common cause by far is Z movement issues. If the Z axis moves just 10% more than usual when going to the next layer then you get a layer that is 10% underextruded because the distance from the nozzle to the print is farther than normal. Then if the next layer the Z axis moves 10% less than usual you get an overextruded layer which sticks out. Layers that stick out and stick in by a little bit causes the banding you see.
The quick solution is to clean your z screw. Spend 5 minutes with a toothbrush and some wd 40 sprayed on the toothbrush (not the the screw as some will get on the print bed!). Or just use a paper towel and a toothpick. Clean up the few cm that are used for the bottom of your print and these horizontal lines should go away. I recommend printing a test print 1cm by 1cm by 10cm tall before and after cleaning.
Sometimes cleaning is not enough and you need better quality z screws and nuts. There was a time when Ultimaker had 50 cent Z nuts and if you moved up to the 80 cent z nuts the quality was so much better. Z rods and z bearings can also cause binding and issues with stick/slip.
Sometimes putting a brick or lead weight attached to the portion of your printer that moves up and down can help as well but this is just a debugging tool and not a permanent solution. This can reduce stick/slip issues.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,172
So there are many possible causes of horizontal banding.
temp
One is temperature swings if the nozzle is 5C hotter for one layer then it will extrude a bit more and a layer sticks out. Then if a layer is 5C cooler it will stick in.
z movement
But the most common cause by far is Z movement issues. If the Z axis moves just 10% more than usual when going to the next layer then you get a layer that is 10% underextruded because the distance from the nozzle to the print is farther than normal. Then if the next layer the Z axis moves 10% less than usual you get an overextruded layer which sticks out. Layers that stick out and stick in by a little bit causes the banding you see.
The quick solution is to clean your z screw. Spend 5 minutes with a toothbrush and some wd 40 sprayed on the toothbrush (not the the screw as some will get on the print bed!). Or just use a paper towel and a toothpick. Clean up the few cm that are used for the bottom of your print and these horizontal lines should go away. I recommend printing a test print 1cm by 1cm by 10cm tall before and after cleaning.
Sometimes cleaning is not enough and you need better quality z screws and nuts. There was a time when Ultimaker had 50 cent Z nuts and if you moved up to the 80 cent z nuts the quality was so much better. Z rods and z bearings can also cause binding and issues with stick/slip.
Sometimes putting a brick or lead weight attached to the portion of your printer that moves up and down can help as well but this is just a debugging tool and not a permanent solution. This can reduce stick/slip issues.
Link to post
Share on other sites