Maybe you don't need a brim. Does your part have rounded corners? How long is it on the bed in the longest dimension? Did you use a surface preparation like magigoo?
I will give it a go and see about modifying the G code as suggested - I've never looked into the code following slicing and am curious what it entails...
In the past I have printed the same models without a brim and experience warping. The models in this case are 10 or so small highway dividers with limited build plate contact area. If one print is done at a time I don't see warping but with the time between individual models there is a bit of warping. Currently my post processing (a few minutes with a fine file) cleans up the model.
Magigoo is a new one for me, I've never tried, nor heard of it. Currently my surface prep is re-positionable spray adhesive. I am off to google to check out the product you've suggested. One product that I tried to use were the Ultimaker adhesion sheets - I have worked on a lot of really old rusty equipment with bolts seemingly welded together and none of them put up a fight like getting a model off of my build plate with the adhesion sheets applied.
Recommended Posts
GregValiant 1,409
You can do it manually but there is no setting for that. The brim is supposed to aid bed adhesion of the model and not the other way around.
You could set the brim distance to 1mm and make it into a wide skirt, or just use a skirt. Your second extruder isn't going to stick to the model anyway.
You can copy and paste the brim code from the beginning of layer:0 and place it at the end. You would need to sync the extruder with a G92 Exx.xxxxx at the "New" beginning of Layer:0, then a second G92 Exx.xxxxx to sync the extruder at the start of the brim, and then at the end of the brim a third G92 would re-sync back to the gcode that follows.
The easiest thing is to just use a skirt.
Edited by GregValiantLink to post
Share on other sites