By the way, I think the way you remove ringing is really cool. So UM printers have high accel. I think S5 has 5000m/s/s. So if printing speed is 150mm/sec it takes 30ms to get up to full speed. Printing at 70mm/sec takes about half that or 14ms. It's actually faster as the jerk allows you to start at around 14mm/sec before you even start accelerating. At these accelerations you are 150mm/sec in 2.25mm of distance (distance = 1/2 * accel * t^2).
Whereas the ringing frequency is usually slower? I think? That is what people tell me. This greatly simplifies the analysis.
So you first calculate the period of the ringing. You can do that by measuring the distance between the bumps - do it where you know it is at full speed (2.25mm from the corner if at 5m/s/s accel and 150mm/sec printing speed - closer to the corner if printing slower - farther from corner if accel is slower).
Then if the period is say, 30ms, and accel lasting 14ms you can see that all the acceleration is going into the first half of the oscillating cycle. Which creates the most possible ringing. But you want the acceleration to last exactly 30ms if that is the ringing period. So you pick an acceleration that means it will take 30ms to get up to full speed. That will result in zero ringing. speedup time is speed/accel.
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gr5 2,280
That's the tradeoff. The default S5 acceleration and jerk settings fix the ringing but then you get those bulging corners. You can fix one or the other. That's why there is the "engineering" profile which has lots of ringing but parts are much more accurate when measured with a micrometer. And the regular profile which has nicer looking parts (not much ringing).
the one way to fix both issues is to print slower. 35mm/sec is pretty good but you can even go as slow as 25mm/sec.
Personally, for what I do (print mechanical parts for customers), no one cares about the ringing but accuracy is very important so I use the engineering profiles.
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