- Solution
I'll second @GregValiant in saying that I get an error while trying to open the file.
11 hours ago, jaysenodell said:What is a solid starting profile for PETG that doesn't rip the damn booger string off the deck but doesn't take a decade to print?
- You gotta run the initial layer pretty damn slow (I usually have it set to 15mm/s with 50mm/s travel) but unlike TPU you don't need to run the whole thing slowly (I usually run at 45mm/s with 150mm/s travel).
- Your Z offset needs to be damn near perfect. PETG is some stringy #&%* to deal with, but in a different way to TPU. TPU is pretty much physically impossible to retract sufficiently so almost any travel will leave a string. PETG is stringy in that it always wants to remain a string leading to the nozzle instead of being planted down.
- Also turn the initial layer flow up to 105-110%. You want to make sure there's enough on the bed for it to stay on the bed.
- Trying to print anything too fine (layer height/line width) is a fool's game. You're not going to be extruding enough to get it to stick.
10 hours ago, jaysenodell said:@Slashee_the_Cow must have 20-30 of these creality printers and she LOOOOOVES to deep dive into optimizing print profiles.
Greg probably has more than me. I've just managed to have more than my fair share of them die under my watch. I refuse to accept responsibility for any of them.
10 hours ago, jaysenodell said:Based on previous slashee wisdom I immediately recognized my blobs as "SLOW THE FORK DOWN" and have been able to get solid prints by just tweaking print speed
"SLOW THE FORK DOWN!!!!" isn't quite as important with PETG as it is with TPU. I'm not sure I've ever needed to slow down to less than 30mm/s (except for one thing which had really intricate details, which I ran at 20mm/s, but almost all of my PETG prints are more about utility than looks), but it never hurts to make sure your acceleration and jerk aren't too high.
10 hours ago, jaysenodell said:* Temps are the same I've been using for this PETG on other projects
What temp is that? Sometimes for different things you need different temperatures to get the best of them. Usually I run PETG at 245° with the bed at 80°.
11 hours ago, jaysenodell said:* It's summer but rel humidity is still 90-98% every day.
I hope you're keeping your filament dry. I'm in Australia so I can beat you for relative humidity (hit 100% plenty of times last summer!). But that's the sort of weather where I leave my filament in the dryer (turned on) while printing - it has holes so you can feed filament out, I use some Bowden tubing to get the filament into the tent (because I don't fancy running unprotected filament through a velcro flap, plus I made a holder that goes on the top bar of the printer to hold several Bowden tubes in place and a few spool holders nearby with more tubing, helps for multicolour printing). But in that weather even if I printed yesterday I'll run it in the dryer for an hour or two before printing.
11 hours ago, jaysenodell said:* OSX and multiple cura versions don't play nicenice so the 5.7 install may be messing up my 5.6 PETG settings?
Possible, but if everything else is printing fine I wouldn't think so.
So umm... post a valid project file and I can have a look at it more specifically.
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jaysenodell 22
I don’t like the fact that octoprint just unlock an achievement “must be one of those days” for canceling 10 consecutive prints in a row.
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GregValiant 1,454
@jaysenodell I get an error when I try to open that 3mf file in Cura 5.7.1. MS 3D Builder won't open it either.
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