Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
thirdsurface

Soldering the buildplate on the Ultimaker 2

Recommended Posts

Ouch... It's certainly fixable but it might not look very nice. All you need to do really is to scrape off the soldermask from the lifted traces (the black "paint") so that you get to the copper underneath. Then just solder a wire between the newly exposed copper and the corresponding pin of the connector (that's not a relay, it's simply a connector). If you haven't done any soldering yourself it might be a good idea to try to find a friend/family member/neighbour who has. It's not a difficult process but trying to repair something is probably not the best project to start with. That and having to buy the tools for it if you don't have them already or plan to do more soldering in the future.

It probably wouldn't hurt to glue down the connector as well when you're done to avoid it happening again.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip; unfortunately I have had the pleasure of soldering a couple things on my U1, not my favorite thing in the world but I have everything I need.

The original issue was the heated bed reading hot when it was actually at room temperature. I was hoping it was a loose wire but I could not be sure due to the ensuing chaos.

I'm hoping all will be well after I fix the connections, but is there another possible issue regarding the temperature misreading that I may need to solve?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, what is the function of the white wire on the far side of the connector?

 

The two thinner wires (white/brown) are for the temp sensor. The two thicker wires supply the power for heat.

Double check both of those thinner screws since your problem with the temp sensor is likely either the screws or the solder connection form the connector to the board.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will imgur host your pictures for years and years? Or just a few months? It's probably better if you load your pictures into the forum so that they will last "forever" or at least a few years.

Click "gallery" on the top left of this page, then click the "upload" blue button. Then when you make a posting click "my media" next to the smiley face.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the photo tip!

I got the two heating wires soldered, don't judge from the mess in the picture, I'll get it cleaned up!

I was running late for work so I just held a wire to connect the leftmost wire to the contact further to the left. I powered it up and got a 0 degree reading. Removing that connection results in a bed temp error.

Am I doing this right by soldering that leftmost one? The connection second from the left seems fine, and the heating wires don't look pretty, but they are definitely not touching

I could not find a diagram and want to make sure I'm not totally wrong before I get the iron out again.

Thanks

IMG 7639

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking closer I can see that the white piece on the right (for the white wire) has copper on each side, and the side at the top of the picture has a piece of tracing that appears to lead under the black connector.

hmm

Does this mean that I now need to somehow reattach the white piece to the board, and then solder a wire to the contacts on each end?

I am in need of some clarification of whats going on at this particular junction, and maybe a workaround if there's more soldering within that square millimeter; unfortunately I do not have micron sized hands and tools.

I seem to have bad luck with it comes to heated beds and nozzles, but a huge thank you illuminarti and gr5, I have finished the coding for my E3D hotend so I will hop on that thread when I upload the new firmware tomorrow

build plate connection

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's hard to solder these boards yourself. I would not recommend it.

However, if you want to do this. We did it by hand by heating up the whole bed with an electric cooking plate. The bed is working as a huge heat-sink making it difficult to impossible to solder otherwise.

The "white thing" is the PT100 temperature sensor. so it need to be on the board to properly measure the temperature.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recommend you disconnect the two skinny wires and measure the resistance between the screws. It should be around 108 ohms at room temperature. One screw should connect to one side of that tiny PT100 and the other screw should connect to the other side.

If the resistance is infinite than one or the other signals is not making it to that PT100. Measure the resistance of the PT100 directly and then measure the resistance from each side to the 2 screws.

Here's a table that converts resistance to temp for the PT100:

http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So in the process of trying to reconnect the leads to the pt100 I've managed to mistakenly remove it from the board entirely. I still have it, but I try to measure the resistance across it and am still getting an infinite resistance reading. This leads me to believe that I've torn up some crucial component of it and the circuit is no longer complete.

Does this basically boil down to me needing to purchase another temperature sensor or does anyone have any ideas on how I could try one more home fix for this? I looked around for any technical information on the pt100 but couldn't find anything other than the temperature conversion tables posted above (thank you by the way). Any help would be much appreciated, this problem is beginning to take up a lot of time and I'm ready for a solution.

The good news is I fixed my ultimaker 1 after 3 weeks of troubleshooting!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Search for RTD and then make sure they are surface mount, and 100 ohms. I'm not sure what size you want but here are 3 different surface mount sizes:

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1=103&FV=fff4001e%2Cfff802da%2C400005%2C400006%2C400007&k=rtd&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Available sizes:

0603

0805

1206

These are in inches so 0603 is .06 by .03 inches. 0805 is .08 inches by .05 inches. I don't know what size the old one is but very likely one of these 3 sizes.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered the 0603 model thin film surface mounted from Digikey, they sell individually for $2.22.

Thanks for the links alnavasa and gr5, Digikey was the quickest and cheapest option ($10.00 for two sensors and priority shipping). I'll let you know how this turns out.

Here is the direct product link if anyone happens to need one in the future.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS060301B100RP100/PTS0603100CT-ND/1666189

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!