Soldering the buildplate on the Ultimaker 2

[thirdsurface 0]

I was trying to tighten a wire to fix a temperature read error on the Ultimaker 2 buildplate and successfully ripped all the connections to the relay loose. Can I solder all these connections back? What do I need to keep in mind in order to fix this?

Picture Below

http://imgur.com/4ZZkMV6

 

[IRobertI 516]

Ouch... It's certainly fixable but it might not look very nice. All you need to do really is to scrape off the soldermask from the lifted traces (the black "paint") so that you get to the copper underneath. Then just solder a wire between the newly exposed copper and the corresponding pin of the connector (that's not a relay, it's simply a connector). If you haven't done any soldering yourself it might be a good idea to try to find a friend/family member/neighbour who has. It's not a difficult process but trying to repair something is probably not the best project to start with. That and having to buy the tools for it if you don't have them already or plan to do more soldering in the future.

It probably wouldn't hurt to glue down the connector as well when you're done to avoid it happening again.

 

[thirdsurface 0]

Thanks for the tip; unfortunately I have had the pleasure of soldering a couple things on my U1, not my favorite thing in the world but I have everything I need.

The original issue was the heated bed reading hot when it was actually at room temperature. I was hoping it was a loose wire but I could not be sure due to the ensuing chaos.

I'm hoping all will be well after I fix the connections, but is there another possible issue regarding the temperature misreading that I may need to solve?

 

[thirdsurface 0]

Also, what is the function of the white wire on the far side of the connector? I noticed that the board contact is positioned away from the others.

 

[illuminarti 18]

The two thick wires are power for the heater, the two thinner wires go to the temp sensor.

 

[gr5 2,026]

Also, what is the function of the white wire on the far side of the connector?

 

The two thinner wires (white/brown) are for the temp sensor. The two thicker wires supply the power for heat.

Double check both of those thinner screws since your problem with the temp sensor is likely either the screws or the solder connection form the connector to the board.

 

[gr5 2,026]

Will imgur host your pictures for years and years? Or just a few months? It's probably better if you load your pictures into the forum so that they will last "forever" or at least a few years.

Click "gallery" on the top left of this page, then click the "upload" blue button. Then when you make a posting click "my media" next to the smiley face.

 

[thirdsurface 0]

Thanks for the photo tip!

I got the two heating wires soldered, don't judge from the mess in the picture, I'll get it cleaned up!

I was running late for work so I just held a wire to connect the leftmost wire to the contact further to the left. I powered it up and got a 0 degree reading. Removing that connection results in a bed temp error.

Am I doing this right by soldering that leftmost one? The connection second from the left seems fine, and the heating wires don't look pretty, but they are definitely not touching

I could not find a diagram and want to make sure I'm not totally wrong before I get the iron out again.

Thanks

 

[thirdsurface 0]

Looking closer I can see that the white piece on the right (for the white wire) has copper on each side, and the side at the top of the picture has a piece of tracing that appears to lead under the black connector.

hmm

Does this mean that I now need to somehow reattach the white piece to the board, and then solder a wire to the contacts on each end?

I am in need of some clarification of whats going on at this particular junction, and maybe a workaround if there's more soldering within that square millimeter; unfortunately I do not have micron sized hands and tools.

I seem to have bad luck with it comes to heated beds and nozzles, but a huge thank you illuminarti and gr5, I have finished the coding for my E3D hotend so I will hop on that thread when I upload the new firmware tomorrow

 

[Daid 304]

It's hard to solder these boards yourself. I would not recommend it.

However, if you want to do this. We did it by hand by heating up the whole bed with an electric cooking plate. The bed is working as a huge heat-sink making it difficult to impossible to solder otherwise.

The "white thing" is the PT100 temperature sensor. so it need to be on the board to properly measure the temperature.

 

[gr5 2,026]

I recommend you disconnect the two skinny wires and measure the resistance between the screws. It should be around 108 ohms at room temperature. One screw should connect to one side of that tiny PT100 and the other screw should connect to the other side.

If the resistance is infinite than one or the other signals is not making it to that PT100. Measure the resistance of the PT100 directly and then measure the resistance from each side to the 2 screws.

Here's a table that converts resistance to temp for the PT100:

http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html

 

[thirdsurface 0]

So in the process of trying to reconnect the leads to the pt100 I've managed to mistakenly remove it from the board entirely. I still have it, but I try to measure the resistance across it and am still getting an infinite resistance reading. This leads me to believe that I've torn up some crucial component of it and the circuit is no longer complete.

Does this basically boil down to me needing to purchase another temperature sensor or does anyone have any ideas on how I could try one more home fix for this? I looked around for any technical information on the pt100 but couldn't find anything other than the temperature conversion tables posted above (thank you by the way). Any help would be much appreciated, this problem is beginning to take up a lot of time and I'm ready for a solution.

The good news is I fixed my ultimaker 1 after 3 weeks of troubleshooting!

 

[thirdsurface 0]

I was unable to get a reading on my busted temp sensor, so I am going to buy a replacement PT100 thin film such as this:

http://www.omega.com/pptst/TFD_RTD.html

...when I find one that isn't $50 and won't take a month to arrive, unless there is a better option

learn from my ways

 

[alnavasa 0]

...when I find one that isn't $50 and won't take a month to arrive, unless there is a better option

 

Maybe ultimaker guys now more websites to buy them,

I have done a this one looks better, but there are way more connectors of this

This site its pretty much like DX.

 

[gr5 2,026]

Search for RTD and then make sure they are surface mount, and 100 ohms. I'm not sure what size you want but here are 3 different surface mount sizes:

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1=103&FV=fff4001e%2Cfff802da%2C400005%2C400006%2C400007&k=rtd&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Available sizes:

0603

0805

1206

These are in inches so 0603 is .06 by .03 inches. 0805 is .08 inches by .05 inches. I don't know what size the old one is but very likely one of these 3 sizes.

 

[thirdsurface 0]

I ordered the 0603 model thin film surface mounted from Digikey, they sell individually for $2.22.

Thanks for the links alnavasa and gr5, Digikey was the quickest and cheapest option ($10.00 for two sensors and priority shipping). I'll let you know how this turns out.

Here is the direct product link if anyone happens to need one in the future.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS060301B100RP100/PTS0603100CT-ND/1666189

 

[jack 0]

I fixed the sensor problem and posted some pictures.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5671-broken-heating-buildplate/ may help.