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sebastianf

Opinions on Ultimaker 2

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Hi everyone,

I am co-owner of a design business in Cape Town, South Africa. We have decided to dip into the 3D printing market and are shortlisting the Ultimaker 2, CubeX and UP Plus 2.

The Ultimaker 2 seems to be offer far greater detail than the other two but I'm cautious about believing marketing hype. I would appreciate users opinions of the Ultimaker 2. Include photos if you like.

Thanks.

 

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I have both Ultimaker2 and an UP plus (not the UP plus 2) and I use and I am happy with both. I would not go for a Cube simply because of the high filament cost, I have no idea on its print quality.

I would not say either UM2 or the UP is the better - they are different.

If you are going to print ABS only and the UP build volume is enough then that's the choice. People have had mixed results with PLA on the UP but it is possible. The UP philosophy is to use a raft and the new UP plus 2 autoleveling expects it as it does the correction on the raft. It is possible to print raftless though and I do it all the time. The mechanics on the UP are not the best and I need to re-level the bed at lot. The UP software does not allow for temperature selection other than PLA/ABS. ABS temperature is 270 degrees C, so you have to use their filament or make yourself a temperature mod that will allow you to use any ABS. UP filament handling is very good and I do not get clogged nozzles or stalled filament. The extruder is mounted on the print head which a lot of people around here will tell you slows things down. It might in theory, but in practice the UP print speed blows the UM2 away.

On the other hand the build volume of the UM2 wins over the UP which is too small for a lot of jobs I do. Its also focused more on PLA printing than ABS. PLA warps a lot less than ABS so is better for larger builds. UM philosophy seems more to raftless printing which I prefer, but you can use a raft if you want to. Mechanically the UM2 is rock solid. Much better than the UP. The print bed leveling is very quick and easy to do, it can be tedious on the UP. The UM2 filament handling is not so good. I don't really like the use of 3mm filament and a bowden tube and would prefer the UP system of putting the extruder motor on the head near the nozzle.

So if you want to print small ABS models, go with the UP.

If you want larger PLA models then go with the UM2.

I'm happy with both and would not like to be without either.

 

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Sebastian.. all you have to do.. is reading this forum for 15 minutes and see how WOWWED people are about their printers and what they are printing... Thats not marketing.. thats a small and growing army of amazed customers !

Ian :-)

 

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..The extruder is mounted on the print head which a lot of people around here will tell you slows things down. It might in theory, but in practice the UP print speed blows the UM2 away.

 

At what speed do you usually print on both the UP and UM2?

Is there a specific reason you are using these certain speed on the UM2, like maybe you haven't had positive results with higher speeds or something else?

I am curious to know :)

Thanks!

 

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Thanks.

Just spoke to the local UP reseller and oddly he recommends the UP Mini over the UP 2 Plus due to the fact that it has a heated platform. Apparently it gives better quality finishes.

I am blown away by the Ultimaker 2's 20 micron accuracy. That is extremely good for the amount of money. Anyone care to upload a close-up photo of a part printed at that resolution?

We definitely will buy a machine soon. Most likely in the next two months so we want to get all our ducks in a row...

Keep it coming!!

 

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Hi Sander.

I have a print that takes 1hr 16m on the UP to complete. That is in "Normal" mode. In "Fast" mode (which I don't use) it reports 1hr 2m print time. The 1hr 16m time is real, I've been running quite a few this week. This is at a 0.3mm layer height and max. infill (which looks to be about 50%).

The time on the UM2 reported by Cura 14.03 is 2hr 20m. That's with 0.3mm layer height, 83mm/s and 40% infill. This is the max speed Cura will allow. (10mm3/sec)

I'm not going to post the model here as it's work related, but I'd be happy to email it to you if you want a closer look.

 

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You can send me the file if you want, but I don't think it is necessary.

You can compare speeds on various ways.

Like you can just compare the speed (mm/s), which I think is the most basic comparison.

Because the Ultimaker has the extruder motor on the back, it (is suppose) to be able to move faster then any

printer that has the motor on the print head. Because simply it is lighter, and when you move a heavy object around very fast you will have backlash etc.

If you compare the total print time you have to make sure equal settings are being used.

Like does it have the same amount of infill?

Does it have the same amount of walls / perimeters?

Is the model the same size?

Resolution?

Retraction enabled?

Etc.

A lot of things have a direct affect on the printing time.

 

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Just spoke to the local UP reseller and oddly he recommends the UP Mini over the UP 2 Plus due to the fact that it has a heated platform.

 

They BOTH have heated platforms, the mini to 50 degrees and the UP plus to 100 degrees.

On the UM2 you can set whatever platform temperature you like.

 

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Thanks.

Just spoke to the local UP reseller and oddly he recommends the UP Mini over the UP 2 Plus due to the fact that it has a heated platform. Apparently it gives better quality finishes.

I am blown away by the Ultimaker 2's 20 micron accuracy. That is extremely good for the amount of money. Anyone care to upload a close-up photo of a part printed at that resolution?

We definitely will buy a machine soon. Most likely in the next two months so we want to get all our ducks in a row...

Keep it coming!!

 

You can see a print here

But I am sure someone has better pictures?

Basically 20 micron doesn't show any layers anymore.

 

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They BOTH have heated platforms, the mini to 50 degrees and the UP plus to 100 degrees.

On the UM2 you can set whatever platform temperature you like.

 

Really?! The reseller was very specific that only the Mini had a heated platform. If what you say is true then the Plus is starting to become a true contender...

Much homework to do this weekend...

 

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I'll chime in here. I've owned my UM2 for 2 days, and I'm now easily churning out .075 prints. And I have no prior experience with these machines. I'm amazed.

Sure, there will be some problems. I had a support (made in MeshMixer) come off the bed but I believe that was my own fault of not using enough glue and turning the bed down to 60 degrees C. However, the rest of that print was fine.

Will you have to learn - yes.

Will you experience some difficulties whilst learning - yes.

Would I recommend this printer - yes, already did, mate is picking it up tomorrow.

 

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I have had similar experience with the UM2 - all good. After spending a year tweaking another highly-reputed 3D printer, the UM2 blows it away right out of the box. it's like comparing a Mac(intosh) to a Mac Truck.

I'm producing parts at .060mm layer height with no problem at all (other than impatience). Of course, there is the usual quota of adhesion failures and aborted prints for one reason or another, but overall my experience after a week with the UM2 has been overwhelmingly positive.

 

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Thanks for all the feedback.

I have read on this forum about problems with delivery i.e. printers arriving broken/knocked about. Not good for a device that has work to do. Also I want to find if there is a local reseller. These are my two main concerns.

 

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Hi Sebastian,

When you read about any units arriving broken/knocked about you probably also read that Ultimaker took great care of its users and we left nobody in the dark.

When a printer arrives damaged it is usually due to rough handling, something we can not always prevent.

But what is important is how the company you committed too, handles such a situation.

There is no official reseller in Cape Town, South Africa.

But we can ship it there.

 

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I am blown away by the Ultimaker 2's 20 micron accuracy.

 

Compared to the UP's 150micron Z resolution, more than 7 times better.

 

Really?! The reseller was very specific that only the Mini had a heated platform.

 

Then you need another supplier. :)

 

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Hi Sebastian,

When you read about any units arriving broken/knocked about you probably also read that Ultimaker took great care of its users and we left nobody in the dark.

When a printer arrives damaged it is usually due to rough handling, something we can not always prevent.

But what is important is how the company you committed too, handles such a situation.

There is no official reseller in Cape Town, South Africa.

But we can ship it there.

 

Thanks for your reply Sander. Yes, you're right. Recipients of damaged printers all said that they were looked after promptly. My concern though is that I am very far from Europe and it'll take so much longer. Whatever machine I decide to get already has plenty work lined up and I can't afford for it to sit idly...

 

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I think in practice most people print at .06 if they want to get high resolution prints.

The difference between .06 and .02 is not very easy to spot with the naked eye, while the difference in overal print time is easier noticeable ;)

 

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Hi Sebastian,

I'd prefer to respond here rather than PM so everyone can join in.

First, I have the UP plus, not the UP plus 2.

I've had my UP plus for two years. I have been and still am happy with it. However it is a small build platform and I wanted bigger. That's the reason I purchased the UM2 about 4 months ago.

If I'd had the UM2 first, I probably would not go for the UP as well but it didn't happen that way around.

I normally print engineering/mechanical parts.

 

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Ok. Is that the only glaring difference for you? What is the quality of the parts coming off the UP? What material do you use?

I saw a video on youtube where the Y-axis (supporting the table) seemed to flex up and down. It was very slight and possibly just a play of light and shadow but in your opinion how stable and how accurate is the UP? I know this isn't injection moulding (my usual stomping ground) and I'm very familiar with CNC machines so I know all about the precision issues of rotary scale and backlash... I don't expect absolute accuracy. However I'd like to get as close as possible. Any and all information is welcome.

Just so its been said I have short-listed the following:

 


  • Airwolf AW3D HD
     

  • Makerbot Replicator 2x
     

  • Ultimaker 2
     

  • UP Plus 2
     

  • Zortrax M200
     

I have contacted all the manufacturers and suppliers for the above but would appreciate feedback from users too.

 

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