Broken heating buildplate

[jack 0]

Hello.

I have my UM2 for like 3-4 weeks.

I used it only several times for printing prototypes with ABS plastic.

At some point (common,I guess) problem with incorrect readings from the buildplate t sensor appeared.It worked with unpredictabble temperature and finaly i got the "Temp sensor,call suuport" messsage.

After reading this forum and checking everything I discovered,that metal path right after soldered point on the lower side of the heating bed is cracked.

So I fixed it one way,and another after first solution worked for 2-3 prints only and at the end resoldered the the broken line.

It works,the best default t was 40(115 ohm), but now when room t=25,the printer shows something between 61 and 150(right,150) buildplate temp.

So,the solution...

1)Best solution as I see it,UM sends me new buildplate as warranty replacement.

2)Maybe,the PT100 sensor could be replaced with another one? It seems like it's universal sensor commonly used in many devices.The question is-where to get one and how to attach it to the table.

3)Replace the whole buildplate with another one? Is it unic or widely used part for 3d printers?

Any suggestions?

Really,really need the printer to get back to work as the fate of my future company now depends on it.

 

[eldrick 65]

You need to contact Ultimaker Support directly, not just post in the Forum.

http://support.ultimaker.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit

 

[gr5 2,265]

Are you in Russia? Please post what country you live in as part of your profile location. I recommend you contact support also and they will likely give you a free bed replacement.

All PT100 parts are interchangeable electrically but not necessarily mechanically as they come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. PT means Platinum. 100 means 100 ohms at 25C. At 20C one would expect about 108 ohms.

Here is a table that translates temperature to expected resistance:

http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html

 

You may have also damaged the solder joint where the connector is soldered to the heated bed. You might want to reheat those connections with a solder iron.

 

[jack 0]

You need to contact Ultimaker Support directly, not just post in the Forum.

http://support.ultimaker.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit

 

Done.

Posted on: 08 May 2014 07:31 AM

Hello.

I have Ultimaker2 and it's in error state:

Error-stopped.Temp sensor BED.

Please help.

and still open...

At the same time I also contacted UM directly to email and got respond yesterday.

So,my guess,all this negotiations will take some time...

 

[jack 0]

gr5 thanks for your answer,very informative.

I also hope they will change the buildplate.It certainly will take like month or more.

But I need the working printer now,so I am looking for any temporary solution.

 

[jack 0]

Here is support responce:

In case the bed isn't working properly anymore you need a replacement one indeed.

However, we can't ship to Russia unfortunately.

...

I hope you understand.

Yes,I understand I made mistake buying Ultimaker2.

Could throw $3000 out ot the window with the same result,but at least that whould save me a lot of time.

 

[gr5 2,265]

Wow - it sucks to be in russia.

I was wrong about "25C is 100 ohms". It's actually "0C is 100 ohms".

I'm confused about your repair - it looks like you ran two wires direct to the PT100 and your meter shows the proper resistance (114 ohms is about right). So what is the problem? Somewhere there is an open?

114 ohms is actually about 37C. That's pretty warm - about body temperature or a very hot room. Was it really that hot when you tested it? There may be some resistance in those tiny wires or the PT100 might be damaged.

 

[jack 0]

Wow - it sucks to be in russia.

 

As UM customer-definitely:)

But generally it's a nice place to live.I spent totally abt 10 years in almost every place on the planet and came back to mother Russia.

 

I was wrong about "25C is 100 ohms". It's actually "0C is 100 ohms".

 

Yes,thanks again,I found the tables and all the neccecary docs to understand what this pt100 is.

 

I'm confused about your repair - it looks like you ran two wires direct to the PT100 and your meter shows the proper resistance (114 ohms is about right). So what is the problem? Somewhere there is an open?

114 ohms is actually about 37C. That's pretty warm - about body temperature or a very hot room. Was it really that hot when you tested it? There may be some resistance in those tiny wires or the PT100 might be damaged.

 

Yes,connected them directly,cause somethere both pt100 lines were invisibly cracked.

But I can't get good connection.Now it shows t=120-150' C while the real t in the room is "little bit" lower ~23C.

Well,I ordered some $10 PT100 sensor

and almost shure it will work.

The question is how to glue this sensor to the table,that heats up to 120C.

 

[3poro 9]

But generally it's a nice place to live.I spent totally abt 10 years in almost every place on the planet and came back to mother Russia.

 

Yuri Gagarin was the first person to see the whole world (literally) and he also returned to Russia. So, we'd better believe it - it IS a nice place.

Regarding your question about fixing the sensor, I would use this:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm

 

[gr5 2,265]

Regarding your question about fixing the sensor, I would use this:

 

Yes - arctic silver - I was thinking the same thing. Or similar "heat sink glue".

 

[jack 0]

Regarding your question about fixing the sensor, I would use this:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm

Thanks!

 

[jack 0]

The solution

1)Bought PT-100 in local store for $10

2)Bought cheap thermoglue-made in Russia Alsil-5 for $2

Next operations took about 15 minutes.

I removed completely the old sensor and the copper lines from it.

Made a scratch on the heattable so the sensor will actually sence.

Soldered new sensor to the connector.

Applied some thermoglue and attached the sensor.

After that heated table to 80C for 5 minutes for better and faster thermoglue solidification.

This is it.

After leveling the table and opening new beer(yes,I use beer since in Russia it works better than glue,blue tape and anything else) I am finally able to print new abs balalayka for my pet bear.

The printing is perfect and the rest of the beer I have to put inside.

gr5,3Poro,thanks a lot,you really helped to solve this problem.