Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Best settings for T-glase?

Recommended Posts

This may be interesting for you:


Haven't tried T-Glase yet, so I can't tell you much more... They have some information about temperatures (only nozzle temps though), but it should be printable on the bare glass platform without any "sticky material" like glue or tape on it. The optimum bed temperature should be somewhere near the glass transistion temperature of the printing material, which is 78°C.

I'd start at 70°C and increase bed temperature if it doesn't stick well enough.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi I had a play with T-glasse blue a couple of months ago but was unsuccessful in terms of getting it to stick to the bed. I did crack their 645 nylon though, using their suggested extruder temp. range. So I would suggest that you start with using their extruder temp range, 212 to somewhere in the 220s I think – it will be quoted in the link Jonny gave you. T-glasse was specifically designed to work with lower temp. Then play around with bed temp. and adhesive, or not, as things progress. In my research I saw figures ranging from 40c to 100+c so who knows!!

If you are successful it would be good if you could post your setup. I am hoping to get back to it in 2-3 week’s time.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my T-Glase this morning, and after a few experiments, I think it's working pretty well. It's a neat material!

I'm printing at 240C with a 75C bed temp with glue stick. Thin things don't stick well if I don't smooth out and re-apply glue. (I'm printing a stretchlet right now)

It seems to work ok at 30mm/sec, over 50 I definitely had trouble.

Oh, and I read somewhere that you shouldn't take the netting off, or it will unspool. I read this after I took the netting off. Apparently you are supposed to leave it on and let it unspool out from under it, though some people found that it got caught sometimes.

The last bit I wanted to mention, was that the recommendation to print at large layer heights is to increase transparency by simplifying the optical path and reducing internal reflections. At smaller layer heights, you definitely get increased strength, at the cost of higher opacity.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • How to 3D print with reinforced engineering materials
      Ultimaker is hosting a webinar where we explain how you can achieve and maintain a high print success rate using these new reinforced engineering materials. Learn from Ultimaker's Product Manager of Materials and top chemical engineer Bart van As how you can take your 3D printing to that next level.
      • 0 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!