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Best settings for T-glase?

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Posted · Best settings for T-glase?

I'm about to try out the Taulman T-glase colors for the first time this weekend. Any recommendations on what settings to start with on a U2?

 

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Posted · Best settings for T-glase?

This may be interesting for you:

http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html

Haven't tried T-Glase yet, so I can't tell you much more... They have some information about temperatures (only nozzle temps though), but it should be printable on the bare glass platform without any "sticky material" like glue or tape on it. The optimum bed temperature should be somewhere near the glass transistion temperature of the printing material, which is 78°C.

I'd start at 70°C and increase bed temperature if it doesn't stick well enough.

 

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Posted · Best settings for T-glase?

Hi I had a play with T-glasse blue a couple of months ago but was unsuccessful in terms of getting it to stick to the bed. I did crack their 645 nylon though, using their suggested extruder temp. range. So I would suggest that you start with using their extruder temp range, 212 to somewhere in the 220s I think – it will be quoted in the link Jonny gave you. T-glasse was specifically designed to work with lower temp. Then play around with bed temp. and adhesive, or not, as things progress. In my research I saw figures ranging from 40c to 100+c so who knows!!

If you are successful it would be good if you could post your setup. I am hoping to get back to it in 2-3 week’s time.

 

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Posted · Best settings for T-glase?

I got my T-Glase this morning, and after a few experiments, I think it's working pretty well. It's a neat material!

I'm printing at 240C with a 75C bed temp with glue stick. Thin things don't stick well if I don't smooth out and re-apply glue. (I'm printing a stretchlet right now)

It seems to work ok at 30mm/sec, over 50 I definitely had trouble.

Oh, and I read somewhere that you shouldn't take the netting off, or it will unspool. I read this after I took the netting off. Apparently you are supposed to leave it on and let it unspool out from under it, though some people found that it got caught sometimes.

The last bit I wanted to mention, was that the recommendation to print at large layer heights is to increase transparency by simplifying the optical path and reducing internal reflections. At smaller layer heights, you definitely get increased strength, at the cost of higher opacity.

 

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Posted · Best settings for T-glase?

Hi,

I have T-Glass Red and after several tried, it works really good with my Ultimaker 2.

Bed : 75 C

Nozzle : 240 C

I hope it can help.

Thanks

C

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Posted · Best settings for T-glase?

3 years after original post above!  I love T-glase.  The first comment I have is that too many printers act like they are metophorically on "speed."  Taulman's recommendation for T-glase is a good one.  I print T-glase at 245-250 and 28 with bed temp at 60.  I got that directly from Taulman who uses it to print vases for conventions. 

 

If you don't have a PEI sheet on  your build bed use a glue stick.  I recommend a PEI.  Everything sticks to it.

 

Regarding the point of printing slowly:

My daughter and I are "Whovians" and I printed a blue "Tardis" drinking cup first time out.  Normally printers will be cautioned not to print for direct food contact.  Theory: if you print very slowly the filament gets more heat and gives more time for the layers to flow together leaving less room for bacteria between the layers.  It's common sense.  T-glase will take pretty hot temps as 100 is boiling and print temps are over 2.5 times that.  Research has shown that even medical equipment  can be sterilized in a dishwasher.  If there is space between the layers steam will get into it.  I am a respiratory therapist and read the research myself in the 80's. While this is a little off topic I am (or will be) also using a steel nozzle, not brass to avoid lead in my prints. The point is if you want your prints to stick, SLOW DOWN!  3D printing and "cocaine" don't mix. 🙂

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