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bhowiebkr

Ulitmaker original build, missing parts

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I’ve just started building the ultimaker original and on the very first step I’m not off to a good start. I seem to be missing the bag of 8 8mm ball bearings. I’m kinda worried what else I could be missing. Whats the best course of action now? should I keep on building the rest and skip this till it gets resolved?

does anybody know what else could have been in the bag with the 8mm bearings?

 

 

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Keep going. For example you can build the Z stage without those parts.

Meanwhile create a ticket at support.ultimaker.com. I think they may be a few weeks behind but they will eventually get to you. Actually if you are in a rush (I would be) just get them from mcmaster.com.

 

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Is there a complete list of ultimaker parts? I want to check that I have everything else before I put in a ticket. Already knowing how long it’s probably going to take to get bearings from ultimaker in the netherlands, I want to be sure I have everything else.It would be a huge pain to get bearings wait for a month then find out I’m missing some other small thing.

If I’m only missing the bearings I could find a local source, but what is the chance I could get reimbursed. I’m thinking probably not. I’m in Canada and I’ve tried in the past with mcmaster carr and they are of use to Canadians. They don’t ship unless you're an established customer.

 

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You should be able to find bearings from many different sources, and they shouldn't be too expensive either...

I have these from China eg.,though it might take just as long to get those as it would to get some from UM

Sure it sucks that UM forgot to put them in your kit (they are getting sloppy on their old days), but I would forget about reimbursement, its such a small expense, and probably within your UM lifetime, you'll run in to many times of ordering upgrades, spares etc. from a number of places...

With any luck, you´ll get better bearings than the stock UM ones, and be all the better off for it :)

 

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If it were me I'd be excited to get the machine put together and wanting to get the missing parts as fast as possible. With that in mind I took a quick look at Ebay. There weren't a hole lot from Canada but I found these in the US that you could have in hand by next Friday for $15:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR688-2RS-8-x-16-x-5-mm-Ball-Bearing-10-Pack-/350919470300?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b46e2cdc

Of course it sucks that the parts are missing and you shouldn't have to pay for it and I'm sure Ultimaker will get them to you for free. But... time.

 

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I put in a ticket about the missing bearings. I’ve called around Toronto and haven’t found any good local sources. I’ll try again tomorrow though. My other option is ebay but yeah It’ll probably take about the same amount of time.

I’ve started building the ultimaker with the frame minus the bearings complete. I’ll work out of order and try and complete most of the assemblies. If I find any other missing parts then I can get them all sent at the same time.

Sofar the only other issue I’ve found with the build are the bolts for the X and Z steppers that pass through the black spacers are too short. These are the 20mm ones (4 per stepper) that only leave about 1mm of thread going into the steppers. This is likely going to strip the threads out of the steppers over time if nothing is done. But I’m converting X and Z axis to direct drive with longer rails and flex couplers on the motors that have I already have so I just need the thing to hold together for some new brackets to be printed.

 

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12mm linear bearings are also missing I guess those are part of the bearing bag I’m missing.

 

Now that's a more serious and harder to get part I would think.

What about the linear bearings in the head itself? I recommend you just go along the assembly instructions and at the top of each section it has a photo of all the parts you need. See what else is missing. And create the ticket now so that in a few weeks when they get around to the ticket you will have a complete list of missing parts.

 

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Ticket ID: NES-412-30849

I mentioned in the Ticket the 8mm bearings, were missing but not the 12mm linear bearings. I think I’m just missing that one bag which should contain all 8mm bearings, 12mm linear bearings and grease.

Is there an easy way to test out the electronic ultimaker shield? I was thinking of connecting up the motors and limit switches and powering it up just to check everything there is working. On the firmware does it have some kind of self diagnostic on power up that moves the steppers? Mostly I want to make sure all those little stepper motor drivers are functioning.

Overall I’m impressed at how well the kit is designed and the quality of the laser cut wood parts is excellent. I’ve been building the kit with blue lock tight on any metal on metal fasteners which is probably a good thing but takes much longer to built.

Hold off on sending that bag right now, I’ll finish what else I can just to be sure I’ve got everything and if its all good, you can send out those missing parts.

 

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Run cura and run the start of the wizard and go through the step where you test all the limit switches.

Then exit before it gets to the bed leveling procedure.

Then install pronterface:

http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

 

It's free. And simple to use and you can move each servo small or large amounts. e.g. you can move X servo 1mm and see if it spins slightly.

 

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As long as you do not connect a heater, and do not change any wiring while the power is on, there is little you can do wrong with the electronics.

Note that the default behavior is not to turn the E motor till the hotend is warm enough. (This sometimes confuses people, making them think the driver or motor is broken)

 

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I’ve gotten the Extrusion head built and just got a couple questions. The top two photos show a gap where the long studding bolts thread into the aluminum plate. This is because the PEEK is too thick? will this cause any alignments issues in the future?

On photo 3 did anyone notice when building that the nut that threads onto the long bolt has no thread. this is the long bolt that goes into the black plastic on the top. This might be fixed by rotating the black plastic part on the top to be facing the right side instead of the front. That way the long bolt would be long enough to get all the threads at the bottom where the fan is mounted.

Other than that I put each wire down its own hole instead of all going into one hole. I’ve read that there could be some noise from the fan wires on the thermocouple wires.

Extrusion_head_gap.jpgExtrusion_head_gap_closeup.jpgExtrusion_head_short_bolt_on_fan.jpgExtrusion_head_alternate_wiring.jpg

 

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printer porn! It's so beautiful. It's so clean and new!

I don't know either answer but it all looks good to me. I have a similar gap. You might want to loosen the nozzle a bit and screw down the other brass threaded part into the heater block some more and then retighten the nozzle such that you know they are touching inside. It's obvious when there is a small gap betwen the heater block and the nozzle.

The gap in your first photo is normal and is visible in the assembly instructions.

The issue with the nut in the fan shroud - I don't have the black part in below photo (that's a recent addition) so I didn't have that problem. But it sounds like you managed to get it to grab part of a thread maybe? If not you could take the black piece off (in bottom photo) and file it down thinner a tiny bit where that thumb screw goes through it.

 

8637890156_e22d92277c.jpg

 

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Are all of the long bolts equal in length these days? Back when I built my machine a long time ago the bolts differed in length depending on where on the head they were supposed to go. Looking at the next to last picture it kinda looks like the bolt closest to the camera is longer than the one next to the nozzle. But I guess that could just be perspective playing a trick on me.

 

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The issue with the nut in the fan shroud - I don't have the black part in below photo (that's a recent addition) so I didn't have that problem. But it sounds like you managed to get it to grab part of a thread maybe? If not you could take the black piece off (in bottom photo) and file it down thinner a tiny bit where that thumb screw goes through it.

 

I'll file it down a touch for the amount of thread I need on the bottom :)

I’m almost about finished with what I can build without bearings. I have all the parts for the feeder minus the bearings so I’ll finish up with what I can make for the X-Y axis then test the electronics out. I’ll test out the motors and electronics with cura and after see if I can make it run on a smaller arduino mega 1280 I have laying around.

 

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Are all of the long bolts equal in length these days? Back when I built my machine a long time ago the bolts differed in length depending on where on the head they were supposed to go. Looking at the next to last picture it kinda looks like the bolt closest to the camera is longer than the one next to the nozzle. But I guess that could just be perspective playing a trick on me.

 

I think They are all the same length. I'll file it down. Great thing now is I can soon enough just print out upgrades!

 

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So I’ve gotten as far as I can without bearings, I’ve tested out the electronics and I can get the 3-axis motors moving. I got Marlin running on the Arduino Mega 1280 but I had to upload the firmware manually using the Arduino IDE. Cura for whatever reason wouldn’t upload the firmware. So now it looks like I’ll have to wait for bearings to complete the build.

 

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So I’ve gotten as far as I can without bearings, I’ve tested out the electronics and I can get the 3-axis motors moving. I got Marlin running on the Arduino Mega 1280 but I had to upload the firmware manually using the Arduino IDE. Cura for whatever reason wouldn’t upload the firmware. So now it looks like I’ll have to wait for bearings to complete the build.

 

That's because Cura looks specifically for an Mega2560. (Every Arduino acts differently, it's pretty much a mess on the firmware loading side from Arduino)

 

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