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pikata

Problems with Ultimaker 2, can't print

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Hello everybody,

I have problems with my ultimaker 2, its quality is very bad and i dont know,what should i do...

If it will be easier to understand my problems,i could shoot a video of every configuration and printing process.

Thanx alot, for support and help guys!!! many thanx!

1 problem

Material, blue,transparent,black PLA

When print is almost finished, few 3d models, melting on its top, like an ice cream, I tried different temperatures, and its melting anyway, fan is on 100%, i tried different printing speed, the result was the same.

here are images.

ce5203f23f5b.jpg

27dd9f7ad417.jpg

653f172d91d5.jpg

 

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What do you mean with 'nothing happened' when using the atomic method? What did the tip of the filament look like?

Did you check the feeder? Is it grinding? If you loosen the Bowden tube at the feeder's end (the same way you do it during the atomic method at the print head's end...), heat the nozzle to something like 210°C and push manually some filament through, does it flow continously?

 

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Tried to left Ultimaker 2 for 10-20 minutes with 260 temperature, and then printed, nothing happened

 

ABS or PLA? This is dangerous. Don't go over 220C without printing for more than a minute and try not to ever go over 240C with PLA. High temperatures will turn PLA and ABS into a caramelized gunk that sticks to the inner surface of your nozzle and has to be burned out into ash to get it as good as new again.

Safe temperatures for PLA - 180C idle (not printing). 240C printing fast. 220C printing slow.

 

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Your photos are confusing. You seem to be showing photographs of maybe 4 different issues. For example the simplest, most obvious thing is that the small pyramids don't have very good tops due to cooling issues - the hot nozzle does not let it cool. This is easiest to fix by printing 2 pyramids at the same time (cura Tools -> "print all at once").

The 4th item in blue appears to have been printed mostly in the air I think? It's hard to make the bottom surface that is printed in the air. You can add support walls in CAD or you can flip the part over or rotate the part 90 degrees.

Those are two issues. Can you pick one problem and show pictures of a single problem?

 

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In the bottom most picture your 3 arrows point to 3 issues. The top most arrow shows that you used "cool head lift" which is an improvement and I see it checked in your settings. I already told you how to fix this in my earlier post. Read it again?

The second arrow points to stringing. This is more complicated:

You have "minimal extrusion before retraction" set to .02. This may be disabling retraction - you can check by looking in layer view - a vertical blue line indicates retraction. If no vertical line on *some* moves it is skipping retraction on those moves. I would try changing this to 0mm. Also you can try printing even slower and cooler. Right now you have print speed 50, travel 200 (good!), temperature 210. Instead try print speed 35, travel 200, temperature 190.

Also you have retaction speed at 15mm/sec. This is slow. Go to the max speed (35mm/sec). This will reduce stringing also and reduce globs at the point where the head leaves the part.

Also if like most printers your bowden moves a little on the top of the print head, consider increasing retraction travel from 4.5mm to 5.5mm.

Also you might need to do a different filament to remove all stringing although usually it can be done.

The third arrow may be pointing to minor underextrusion. Fix this by printing hotter (which makes stringing worse) or slower. Try 35mm/sec or even 20mm/sec if that doesn't go away.

 

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In two pictures above you have an arrow pointing to lifting corner.

This particular part appears not to have a flat bottom. This makes it extremely difficult. Brim will fix the lifting but is more difficult to remove cleanly on this curved-bottom part. But the part is small.

So instead I would try to get the bottom to stick better:

1) Wash the glass very well with glass cleaner or soap and water. Don't touch the glass without clean hands - you don't want oil from your hands on the glass.

2) apply some glue stick near the center (where part will print).

3) Take a wet cloth or paper towel or toilet paper. spread the glue around wet and very thin.

4) Turn on heated bed and make sure all liquid disappears before printing.

5) Heated bed should be at 60C so that part sticks well. Make sure bed cools to 50C or colder before removing as the part will be delicate when still at 60C.

 

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Hello, I have good news , 1 issue gone.

So, here are my new prints.

Temp - 190C

Speed - 35mm/s

Travel Speed - 200

Retraction Speed - 35mm/s

Retraction Travel - 5.5mm

Minimal Extrusion Before Retraction - 0

Melting on top of the model, gone!Yeaaayyyy :D!) But some issues left, I hope you have an advice.

Thkick net of retraction almost gone between model parts.It is good, Melting also gone, but spiral line on first 3-10 layers still there.And first layers, printing incorrectly ,somewhere are missed material or a little holes..,Top of the model is pretty good, a little peace of PLA on top, was easy to remove.

0191db8fb78b.jpg

Next image is bottom of model.3-10 layers inside are wavy and dont look good.

8c572d932573.jpg

8fc0f65c5c7e.jpg

The other print, was made with other configurations. All was the same as first, except

Print speed 20mm/s

Fan 100% was turned on only from 3 mm.

So, Wavy lines gone, but holes and artifacts on border of the model left.

So i understand,that i should print only on speed 20mm/s to avoid wavy lines? :?:

401d674aec16.jpg

 

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The simplest thing to fix is bottom picture, green arrow. You need to move the bed closer to the nozzle.

Do not run level procedure. Instead simply turn all 3 screws 1/4 turn (counter clockwise viewed from bottom). If that's not enough try another 1/4 turn.

The green arrow points to infill that should be squished a small amount more so it is closer together. This will also "fix" this skirt line in 3rd picture also first picture red arrow.

Bottom picture red arrow - you can't fix that. This model is too difficult. You are printing over air. The best way to fix this is dual nozzle with a support material like HIPS. This is not yet supported on UM2. You need UM Original for that. If this part didn't have rounded bottom it would be fine.

You can get the top perfect (nothing to remove) if you print two objects at once. This was my original advice in my original post here. Please read post #4 again above!

 

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By the way - my advice in post #4 (print two at once) will improve the overhangs slightly. Also you don't mention bed temperature. I recommend as cool as possible bed temperature for that overhang - I think 45C to 50C. If you go too low the part will come off.

 

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OK,this problem solved! Thanx alot, lets see next?)))

2 problem, layers not close to each other...It is 100 micrones layer, 30mm/s speed and 220 temperature ,blue PLA, I tried recalibrate platform, changed temperature from 190 to 240, and truing to slow down print to 10, nothing helped.What shoul i do?e097b2740e5d.jpg

 

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