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ilsaarin

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  1. Are the printing results so much better that the investment to upgrade kit is worth of the money?
  2. I took the pliers and carefully reshaped the metal parts. Works somehow for now. Propably easiest way is to change the connector. It should be available as a spare part, though. Ilkka
  3. Can't find from Ultimaker web shop. Colleague dropped the supply while it was still connected to the printer and now the connector is in quite bad shape. New one is needed and fast. Ilkka
  4. Hello I just bought UM2 to the office after testing two other brands before. I have on UM2 also at home. Now we have exactly same problem at the office. The filament is squeezed to flat and it doesn't move anymore. Many prints have failed because of this. So, the cure was to increase minimal printing amount before extracting happens? Have I understood right? This is how the filament looks. We have tested UM blue and FormFutura EcoPla White. https://app.younited.com/?shareObject=f3140638-c194-3e21-1e1e-0df11231e3d9 Ilkka
  5. Answering to myself: STL files were crap. They needed to be fixed. Microsoft service did the job because I haven't learned how to use netfabb yet.
  6. Hello Just tried to print one housing to a friend. This is what I would like to get: http://goo.gl/0Dw79r This is what I got: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_x4MZHEBleEY1pJT2pjaWZqRkU/view?usp=sharing How do I fix this? What causes this? How to avoid it in the future? I am quite happy, though. I just got my very first decent ABS prints done. Ilkka
  7. If your DWG is just 2D lines, you can't make it to STL. 3D DWG also exists, but it might be that you can't convert it to STL either. STL is 3D format, which is made of "surface triangles". You need 3D CAD to make STL files. You can't make them with AutoCad 2D. Surface modeling software are also called CAD software. AutoCad is just one CAD software and in this case.
  8. Heated glass plate with glue stick in it. No problems with sticking. Just the print looked horrible. I noticed that when layer is started, the plastic boils when it comes out. It bubbles! Temperature was 245 deg. glass plate was set to 70deg. I made Iphone case yesterday. It came out much better than robotbut I had to switch fans back on. It also had delamination problems.
  9. I tried with fans off and 255 deg. Total disaster. Just a pile of holes and molten plastic.
  10. Companies, like Ultimaker, has outsourced their accounting. They do the accounting work propably once a month. It is bit different if company has financial department of their own. At least in Finland, accounting companies also charges per invoice. That cost is easily 2,5 euros each, which is something like 3,5 dollars. I asked for refund also at the spring because I noticed three days after placing an order that I can get UM2 from London in 5 days instead of 10 weeks. I got the refund after a month or so. But if customer f..k's up the order, it is not company's fault. Refunding causes also extra costs and Ultimaker didn't charge them from me. So, I think that I got good service. Not very fast, but good. Ilkka
  11. Any information about settings? I am just currently printing ultirobot with XT and it seems there is some slight issues with overhangs. EDIT: Just finished ultirobot. Severe delamination in first layers. What to do? Raise the temperature?
  12. Little bit off-topic, but where do you buy ProtoParadigm PLA? Straight from USA or do you know any european supplier? I am still searching for the "best" PLA. Formfutura is currently the best what I have. Or not neccessarily the best but something I like. Ilkka
  13. have you checked the thickness of your filament? Which brand you are using) As mentioned somewhere in this forum, you can feed 3,0 mm filament but 3,0001mm filament will get stuck. Feeder can and will squeeze the filament, so that can cause jamming also. I had under extrusion problems and the reason was switching between ABS and PLA. I got a lot of stuff from the nozzle. Some of that looked like copper.
  14. I have used Colorfabb PLA/PHA. It is pretty good but I prefer Formfutura EasyPla, or whatever it is called today. This doesn't mean that colorfabb is bad. It might be that I have found better settings for Formfutura than I have for colorfabb. I really would like to test XT, but It doesn't make any sense to pay about 40 euros per reel plus 20 euros shipping when ordering just one reel. Anyone willing to send me few meters for testing purposes ? :-P
  15. 100mm/s is way too much. I will never exceed 60mm/s
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