white and black ABS for ultimaker 2 question

[pikata 0]

Hello, i have 1 question, PLA is going well on my printer, but i cant print with ABS filament, white and black ABS won't go from nozzle, on filament,there is written,that temperature must be 265 or more... but the maximum temperature on ultimaker 2 is 260, so its temperature problem or something wrong? PLA printing good, ABS not even goes from a nozzle, any advice?

 

[jonnybischof 58]

Are you sure it says 265°C or higher? Usually, ABS should be printable from about 230°C to 260°C. What brand of filament do you have?

 

[gr5 898]

Try 240C. 260C seems much too hot - ABS is even worse than PLA at turning into a brown crud at higher temperatures. You probably need to clean your nozzle at this point. Try the cold pull/ atomic method at 140C but I suspect you need to take the nozzle out and clean it now.

Also don't let the ABS stay that hot (240C) without printing. I actually print ABS at 245C. Bed should be at 110C.

 

[pikata 0]

I will try and write back how it is going, will add some photos,thank you guys

 

[nocen 1]

Are you sure it says 265°C or higher? Usually, ABS should be printable from about 230°C to 260°C. What brand of filament do you have?

 

hi, new to the forum and have the same issue. The nozzle is clean and only a week old (whole printer none-the-less). Just some background, I've been hands on 3dp'ing since the SD2 came out and with the whole span of materials and I've used my friend's UM2's for a long time but he never used ABS so this is technically but not theoretically uncharted territory for me. The abs is from ultimaker directly. It shows the signs of being processed under-temp. I'm looking for a solution that isn't more than surface changes since i don't want to modify or change my UM2 much (background reasons for this, cannot compromise or bend these rules for operation).

[gr5 898]

That's very strange that Ultimaker would recommend 265C but I happen to know the printers only go to 260C as shipped.  The reason for this is that the white teflon connector degrades pretty quickly at 250C and faster at 260C (quickly doesn't mean a few minutes but a few weeks).

I think you can print ABS just find at cooler temperatures but if it *really* needs 265C you need to do 2 very very easy things but maybe they violate your rules.  One is to change the firmware to one that allows you to go hotter - I have one that will allow up to 300C I can post somewhere for you.  The second thing is you should replace the teflon isolator with the IPM from 3dsolex.com but ONLY if you won't be printing any PLA.  PLA sticks to the IPM isolator so once you install it you can't print PLA.

The nice thing about installing the IPM is you don't have to remove temp sensor or heater from the block (that's a step that is often difficult) and so swapping is pretty easy.  Especially if you've taken your head apart a few times (it seems like most people are forced to take their head apart within a month or two after buying it for one reason or another but I don't have any statistics to back that).

Edited July 26, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 898]

Oh - nocen - you are in USA so if you decide to get an IPM you get it at my store: gr5.org/store/

[nocen 1]

Sorry for such a late reply, got side tracked adding a pei sheet. The IPM isolator seems perfect. A lot easier than my original plan of making a ceramic one. With that in place we would be ok with raising the max temp in the firmware. I did take a look at my teflon one and having run at 260 for a while now its doing better than expected but worse than I hoped it would. And it would be nice to find a brand that works well at a cooler temp just to make everything easier.

current temp-ish solution has been using 260 and printing at 90-75% speed...depending on what I'm printing

[gr5 898]

Looking at your photo again it says "less than 265C" or "<= 265C".

So they are warning you to NEVER GO ABOVE 265C. And indeed I've created clogs in ABS around 255C because I printed too slow.

I'm glad you like the IPM. It can go as cool as you want but will not work with PLA as PLA sticks to the IPM.

[nocen 1]

haha i derped and missed the fact it was <= and not =.

i just ordered the ipm, thanks for showing it to me... amazingly, after ~1150hrs (more than 400m in material) of printing the current insulator isn't even deformed from its original dimensions but the edges are getting a dark brown. i have 2 nozzle assemblies on my way to dual so if i eve to need pla (idk who i would) ill just run it through extruder 2 or use it in a (in)soluble support manner.

i found most other abs brands do run cooler so at this point i consider /my/ problem solved.