Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
super-grover

Glassbed

Recommended Posts

I was printing some large pieces using ABS and when the piece was finished a few shards of glass peeled off with the finished piece. Now i have a chipped print bed...

Can i just go to any hardware store that has 4mm tempered glass and have them cut the right dimensions?

How can i prevent this from happening in the future???

Thanks!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can i just go to any hardware store that has 4mm tempered glass and have them cut the right dimensions?

 

Yes! But go to a glass store, not a hardware store. NYC has lots of windows. Also I don't think it really needs to be tempered although UM glass is tempered. Make sure you have them grind the edges so it isn't sharp. I'm guessing $10.

I have no idea how to prevent this from happening in the future. It happens to a few people occasionaly - especially with XT filament (which I think might be PET?) but I haven't heard about it with ABS yet. What did you put on the glass? ABS glue? Hairspray? Some hairsprays stick a bit less than others.

One thing that might help is to print at 110C and let the glass cool completely before prying off the part.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used glue. The piece I was printing was large and flat. The piece sticks to the glass and cracks when it cools down.

I will try using hairspray next time. I have never used painters tape... would this help?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you use a raft, Woofy?

I don't recommend painter's tape. That's for when you dont' have any heat. It's easy to get the part to stick to the tape but getting the tape to stick to the glass is more difficult.

I've been fine printing ABS on glass with hairspray.

Which glue did you use? The glue stick? Or acetone with ABS dissolved in it? Or wood glue mixed with water?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gr5,

It's not painter's tape, its Kapton tape. It was Super Grover that mentioned painter's tape. I dip a rag into Acetone and wipe it on an old failed ABS fragment to bring a little ABS onto the rag. The Kapton surface is wiped with that and it puts a fine ABS film onto the Kapton (but make sure you do it cold). It sticks like s**t to a blanket when hot and releases reasonably well when cold. The bed is heated to 110c before printing.

I know that direct to glass printing is possible but there have been a few people on the forum mention the glass surface chipping, so I felt the Kapton would also spread and stress forces on the glass and protect it.

I didn't use a raft. That's brim and support your're looking at in the pic.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a piece of glass come of my heated bed too.

You can flip it over the other side if it's not broken. Mine had only a tiny part detached. I've been printing like this for several months now.

What happened for me was too much glue and not waiting long enough to pull the print off the bed

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Woofy in my post #5 above the first line was directed to you and the rest was directed to super grover. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!