Glassbed

[super-grover 0]

I was printing some large pieces using ABS and when the piece was finished a few shards of glass peeled off with the finished piece. Now i have a chipped print bed...

Can i just go to any hardware store that has 4mm tempered glass and have them cut the right dimensions?

How can i prevent this from happening in the future???

Thanks!

 

[gr5 899]

Can i just go to any hardware store that has 4mm tempered glass and have them cut the right dimensions?

 

Yes! But go to a glass store, not a hardware store. NYC has lots of windows. Also I don't think it really needs to be tempered although UM glass is tempered. Make sure you have them grind the edges so it isn't sharp. I'm guessing $10.

I have no idea how to prevent this from happening in the future. It happens to a few people occasionaly - especially with XT filament (which I think might be PET?) but I haven't heard about it with ABS yet. What did you put on the glass? ABS glue? Hairspray? Some hairsprays stick a bit less than others.

One thing that might help is to print at 110C and let the glass cool completely before prying off the part.

 

[woofy 12]

I cover my glass plate with kapton tape when printing ABS. It helps spread the load when removing prints.

 

[super-grover 0]

I used glue. The piece I was printing was large and flat. The piece sticks to the glass and cracks when it cools down.

I will try using hairspray next time. I have never used painters tape... would this help?

 

[gr5 899]

Did you use a raft, Woofy?

I don't recommend painter's tape. That's for when you dont' have any heat. It's easy to get the part to stick to the tape but getting the tape to stick to the glass is more difficult.

I've been fine printing ABS on glass with hairspray.

Which glue did you use? The glue stick? Or acetone with ABS dissolved in it? Or wood glue mixed with water?

 

[woofy 12]

gr5,

It's not painter's tape, its Kapton tape. It was Super Grover that mentioned painter's tape. I dip a rag into Acetone and wipe it on an old failed ABS fragment to bring a little ABS onto the rag. The Kapton surface is wiped with that and it puts a fine ABS film onto the Kapton (but make sure you do it cold). It sticks like s**t to a blanket when hot and releases reasonably well when cold. The bed is heated to 110c before printing.

I know that direct to glass printing is possible but there have been a few people on the forum mention the glass surface chipping, so I felt the Kapton would also spread and stress forces on the glass and protect it.

I didn't use a raft. That's brim and support your're looking at in the pic.

 

[DidierKlein 640]

I had a piece of glass come of my heated bed too.

You can flip it over the other side if it's not broken. Mine had only a tiny part detached. I've been printing like this for several months now.

What happened for me was too much glue and not waiting long enough to pull the print off the bed

 

[Dim3nsioneer 361]

I wonder if some of you have experienced a decrease in adhesion on the glass after some time which cannot be compensated by cleaning.

 

[gr5 899]

Woofy in my post #5 above the first line was directed to you and the rest was directed to super grover. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[woofy 12]

Ah! my bad.