spiralize overhang test, XT on 0.8 nozzle

[ultiarjan 1,220]

was playing around testing spiralize with a 0.8 nozzle, in colorfabb XT. got a bit out of hand so I thought I share the results.. picture name = line in the settings table. This was not a very well thought out test from the start, so the settings variation may not always seem to logical :mrgreen:

some, not always surprising conclusions ...

- I like the "looks" of XT when slower and cooler printing better than hotter with a lot of fan.

- print cooler when using a bigger nozzle

- you need lots of fan while printing overhangs, the VENKEL version (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2) really provides a lot more cooling than the default UM2.

- to my surprise most of the overheating issues took place at the left/front with the default UM2 fan settup, I was expecting the right side to be more problematic (also based on the results of default UM robot printing).

- 0.2 layers seem much better than 0.1, using a 0.8 nozzle.

 

 

[hieronymus 0]

Hi Arjan,

I recently got my hands on some XT clear and was already aware that XT can be quite temperature-critical to print. Looks like i'm going to have to do some testing of my own, only have a 0.4 nozzle though. Nice to see some examples of the difference that different temps and cooling give.

Just a note: As I understand it, the spiralize function in Cura overrides the input for the shell-thickness. So if I'm not mistaken, all your tests would have generated G-code with a shell that is equal to your nozzle-diameter (in your case 0,8mm).

 

[gr5 1,998]

Spiralize prints the wall with one pass. So regardless of your nozzle setting... if you ask for shell of 1mm it will extrude enough for a 1mm wall. Doing that through a .4mm nozzle will be difficult. It does the same thing as if you ask for .4mm wall with 250% flow! With .8mm nozzle not so hard.

 

[ultiarjan 1,220]

Indeed, so if you set a 1mm wall in Cura, you can use the flow to get the actual wall thicknes (120% = 1.2 mm)

Using a 0.6 nozzle you can get to +/- 1.2 mm (and maybe more but I got a leaking head), 0.8 nozzle can go a lot thicker, also depending on the "shoulder width" of the nozzle (how much metal you have around the extruding hole).

 

[hieronymus 0]

Ah, I see. Seems like I had a limited understanding of the spiralize feature.

I had always just adjusted the wall thickness to the nozzle-diameter, thinking that it would override it to that value anyway.

Seems that by increasing the wall-thickness I may have more success in making things watertight, thanks.

 

[ultiarjan 1,220]

If you need a water tight bottom also use flow .. f.e set the wall to 1mm, and flow to 130% you'll get a 1.3mm wall, but the printer will print the bottom 1mm lines appart with 130% extrusion.