Taulman Bridge on a UM2

[bez 9]

I Just wanted to share my experiences with printing with Taulman Bridge Nylon on the UM2. It took me a couple of days with experimenting with different settings but I found something that works pretty well for me.

I suppose the first and most important thing to mention is it shrinks a lot when it cools too quickly. However the following settings worked really well for me:

Nozzle temp = 245C

Bed Temp = 100C

Layer Height = 0.15

Base Layer = 0.3 / 20mms

Print speed = 30mms

Support = Brim

Cooling Fan = Off

Bed prep = Glue stick or for stubborn prints Hobby Crafts "Tacky Glue" (its a bit more sticky than normal PVA, but its a lot harder to remove from the build plate)

Parts are not too difficult to remove from the build plate but wait till its pretty much cooled right down, once the printed parts are cold most of the time the brim will snap away cleanly.

The end result:

I really like the strength of this material and you can "tune" the level of flex via infill levels. I'm sure I will be using it a fair bit in my current and future RC projects.

 

[lance-greene 7]

Hey what all have you modeled relating to RC stuff? Are you doing the OpenRC or do you happen to own a Traxxis Slash? I've started modeling Slash components to print when my Ultimaker 2 arrives hopefully this week.

I've modeled the a-arms,shock towers, RPM rear nylon bumper, and the little plastic cap on the bottom of the springs. I'm actually designing some simple adjustments to the a-arms and shock towers to allow duel shocks on front and rear of the Slash., I intend to print all of this out of nylon, how strong would you say components printed in the bridge nylon compared to off the shelf nylon parts?

 

[bez 9]

Hi,

Please see my main RC project linky > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7008-high-speed-rc-project/

I've had a look at the open rc project but I prefer to carve my own path and just make parts as and when I need them

I havent made any arms yet, but with a 100% infill its super strong I cant say it will be as strong as RPM parts but i dont think there will be a lot in it. I would suggest investing in a 3mm reamer to clean up the pivot pin holes as they never come out as clean as you would like.

I look forward to seeing what you can come up with, Enjoy the UM2 they're awesome

 

[lance-greene 7]

so you were able to print on straight glass with some glue stick rubbed on the bed right? my nylon will be in tomorrow and i want to be printing right away

 

[tinydancer 0]

Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645?

 

[mevander 0]

That looks very nice. We've had problems with voids/defects in the nylon if we go over 230C. I'm guessing it's due to water in the nylon but we've tried to dry it in a 50C over so many times but it still doesn't get better. We also store it in an airtight box with desiccant beads with color indicators. Do you have any good recipe for drying it?

 

[bez 9]

so you were able to print on straight glass with some glue stick rubbed on the bed right? my nylon will be in tomorrow and i want to be printing right away

 

I found PVA gave the best grip to the glass, its just a pain in the backside removing the finished piece. But the problem is if its not stuck down firmly enough it just pulls up at the corners :(

I have some kapton tape here to try at some point to see if that works as its meant to be very good for ABS which is also prone to warp when cooling.

The trick is to stop it cooling down so quick, Im hoping when I find the time to make a bit of an enclosure for my UM2 it will make a huge difference in how the nylon behaves.

 

Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645?

 

Nope its a bit different. The technical blurb can be found here http://taulman3d.com/bridge-features.html

 

That looks very nice. We've had problems with voids/defects in the nylon if we go over 230C. I'm guessing it's due to water in the nylon but we've tried to dry it in a 50C over so many times but it still doesn't get better. We also store it in an airtight box with desiccant beads with color indicators. Do you have any good recipe for drying it?

I just keep mine in a sealed bag with desiccant pouches, I get a couple of water pops while its priming in the nozzle but beyond that I dont get hardly any issues with moisture. I do however only have the nylon fitted to the machine when i need to print, I never leave it attached and exposed to the elements longer than is required.

Some people warm the filament in the oven to help reduce any moisture that may have been absorbed over time, but that comes with its own risks as has to be carefully monitored.

 

[brett-bellmore 1]

We just got in some Taulman Nylons, and tried the Bridge Friday. 245 nozzle, bed at 45C with blue painter's tape. 0.06 z steps, and 30 speed.

Came out beautiful. Looks almost fully dense, nice finish on the surface, and printed for 18 hours without a glitch. I'm looking forward to trying their other nylons. Looks like this material might become our go-to material for structural uses.

We store our fillament in zip-lock bags with a dessicant pack and humidity monitor strip, but right now once they're in use, they're just sitting out in the open. We have plans to build a dessicant cabinet with multiple rolls already fed into tubes that will reach to the feeder, so that all our materials can stay dry even through long prints.

I think my only complaint is that the Taulman came on rolls with such small cores, wouldn't fit on the back of the Ultimaker. No biggy, though, just set the roll on edge next to the printer, and it unspooled fine. I wouldn't try that with most materials, but Nylon handles that treatment fine.

 

[mfknjohn 6]

Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645?

Not Quite, Its supposed to have a few changed characteristics so it will adhere to the print bed a little easier

[MrTechAgent 2]

Sorry to bump an old thread but does anyone what the fuck should I do to keep a Taulman spool to not unspool every time I let go off the end?

[mfknjohn 6]

Sorry to bump an old thread but does anyone what the fuck should I do to keep a Taulman spool to not unspool every time I let go off the end?

 

I found keeping the little black stretch wire that it comes with on works well. if you just like fold part of it back so it doesnt have a chance of getting stuck during your print that should help

[MrTechAgent 2]

 

I found keeping the little black stretch wire that it comes with on works well. if you just like fold part of it back so it doesnt have a chance of getting stuck during your print that should help

 

Yup, I actually discarded it thinking it was part of the packing, LOL!

I use a Headband now and it works just as good!