Jump to content

I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level


thebagmaster

Recommended Posts

Posted · I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level

Greetings Everyone!

I recently purchased an Ultimaker Original+ and went through the bed leveling wizard.

I have done quite a bit of tweaking to try and get the first layer just right on some of my smaller prints.

I tried a large print and realized that the first layer varies quite a bit in the middle of the glass, odd.

Anyways, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

PS: PLA 195C 50C bed 100%flow 50mm/s speed 0.25mm Layer Height

20141220 182804

20141220 182802

 

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level

    bump up your base layer height - after that everything works fine and you will rarely notice the difference on the base layer.

    I use my UMs in an environment which varies (because of heating) and sometimes I get this result, sometimes not, and it if often because the centre of the glass is warmer than the outside (a heating draft) - you are looking t artefacts less than .15mm which is quite small!

    I find if I wash my glass in warm water it also changes height!

    As long as that second layer goes down in a solid format everything is fine!

    James

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level

    - Use a slightly larger nozzle distance during print-bed alignment.

    - The speed for the first layer and good adhesion should be between 20 and 30mm/s, not faster.

    - Use a significantly higher temperature only for the first layer. Bed: 60-75 degrees / nozzle: 205-220 degrees. For all other Layer then much lower temperatures can be used.

    Markus

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level

    im with james HS

    what he is saying about bumping the base layer height is to add a thicker "initial layer". I was driving myself INSANE trying to get an absolutely perfect micron-thin (okay, well, 100microns) coating over the perimeter of the buildplate but YOU DONT NEED TO DO IT.

    Once you switch from 0.1mm to 0.3 you will find everything works SOO much easier. Youll also then realise, after all your hard work, that you are now actually a bit of a ninja with setting up the plate levelling and can pull off a 0.2mm layer. Im sure future UMs will have more tuning options but for now, don't drive yourself crazy; the 3D printing jedis on this forum (which sadly doesn't include me yet, im quite new) get amazing results from a .3 first layer.

    Best of luck and have fun!!!!

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level

    ps- that is doubly true for printing ABS too, im finding at least.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · I have a hard time believing that my glass is not level

    Thanks everyone, was not too worried as Cerberus pointed out after a few layers this is all but gone.

    I shall try your suggestions.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
        (Sorry, was out of office when this released)

        This update is for...
        All UltiMaker S series  
        New features
         
        Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
          • Like
        • 0 replies
      • Ultimaker Cura 5.6 stable released
        Cura now supports Method series printers!
         
        A year after the merger of Ultimaker and MakerBotQQ, we have unlocked the ability for users of our Method series printers to slice files using UltiMaker Cura. As of this release, users can find profiles for our Method and Method XL printers, as well as material profiles for ABS-R, ABS-CF, and RapidRinse. Meaning it’s now possible to use either Cura or the existing cloud-slicing software CloudPrint when printing with these printers or materials
        • 48 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...