ABS rookie woes... ABS "JUICE"... will the glass shatter?!

[cerberus-3d 0]

So ive been hunting around and found different answers for my various woes with printing ABS -formfutura easyfil white- on my ultimaker 2. Im SORRY this is boring for a lot of people but I have been trudging through answers for hours and just want to ask the questions myself.

Please bare in mind that im just starting out here...

So ive tried abs with the usual stock settings in machine. im putting down a good thick 0.3 initial layer and printing gently at 30mm/s, 5 layers of brim, the print bed is VERY level and heated to... whatever it is on the stock setting, 90degs I think(?) Which the manufacturer says is within the advised temp... between 90 - 110.

Print size is your usual iphone rookie adventure.

Ive tried using hairspray and prittstick and so far im still getting peeling up at the edges. The fans are on really low, 16% and not coming on until about a mil up.

I feel like I must be missing something obvious, because the printer all seems to be working perfectly fine and dandy.

Obviously ive googled it like bonkers and stumbled upon a few mods... I was thinking I could list my new-year plans and if anyone thought I was about to try something really stupid they could let me know

right

ABS JUICE Get some of that stuff on there. Buy some acetone, chop up abs bits, leave until shampoo-juicy consistency, apply with woolbuds... Im alarmed that the glass might shatter? Some alarmist freaked me out.

CLING FILM Because I could machine a door out of Perspex at work for fun but who can be bothered if it doesn't make any difference right? Will this upset ultimaker2? Will it cook its inside bits? There must be a reason the inventors didn't put a door on.... im told the extra heat will help stability and boost my chances of prints sticking.

KAPTON TAPE Whatever this nonsense-marmalade is the makerbot smug parade (sorry to any lovely makerbot people out there, im encountering the wrong kind recently) seem to go on about it a lot. Id actually like this to be the last resort as I feel that if the UM2 NEEDED it, they would tell you that it was a "must". Also im lead to believe its not the cheapest stuff when you consistently need to buy it.

FANS OFF Off?! What... "off" off?! Is this healthy, will I fry anything with no fans on at all? Coat the inside of my nozzle with evil burn-y mischief?! I guess not... maybe others can impart wisdom here.

RAFT Lordy -.- It doesn't look fantastical though does it... But I will resort to it I suppose.

TOASTY BED Its already at 90... i'll try 100...

Does anyone have any great extra tips for ABS short of telling me to use a different material? Don't get me wrong I love PLA but its a bit soft and I have two reels of abs id like to use up

You rock community, thanks for taking the time to get this far!!!

 

[bigmouse 6]

For ABS, extruder 260c, bed 90c is fine! Prints with a small base in contact with the glass no problem, just use the glue stick works fine!

Large prints, yea mine are peeling off after several layers, the base warps, takes on a curved look! Going to try the ABS juice tomorrow!

ps Don't take notice of alarmists!

 

[anon4321 16]

I think that the glass on an UM2 is quality stuff. It shouldn't shatter. But take precautions.

There is a reason the build area isn't enclosed. A certain closed source 3D printer which is "MAKERing with roBOTs" company has a patent (actually I think it's the parent company) on an enclosed chamber. It won't upset UM if you do it. However, it may cause the steppers to run hotter. It's better to convert to direct drive so that the steppers are out side the chamber.

When they say fans off, they mean the material cooling fan NOT the fan that cools the upper part of the nozzle.

Toasty bed = yes.

 

[woofy 12]

The stepper motors will be fine.

After a 25hr print in a fully enclosed chamber printing abs at 250c on a 100c bed the um2 xy motors reached 70c.

[nick-s 0]

Hello Cerberus 3D

When I started using ABS about three months ago I was having trouble with shrinkage distortion and lifting of the flat face from the bed. My parts have large flat areas in excess of 7cm x 10cm. After using this site for tips and trying various systems, my solution has been:

Put the ABS juice on to a COLD clean bed. I make a slurry in the colour I am going to print and cover a much wider area than I am going to print over. It dries very quickly and is easy to apply but gives off flammable vapours, so be careful. I use a tea spoon, spreading it with the back of the spoon or the flat bottom of a scrap ABS print of the same colour. The finished print is easy to remove as is the excess ABS wash. The final print also ends up with a super smooth shiny bottom face which in great. I see no reason why you should consider this may break the glass?

I have a Perspex sheet hanging off the top edge of the UM2 by a hook I printed to act as a door. I leave this in place during the entire ABS print. It is basic, simple and can be hung on the sides when not required. I also made a simple Perspex box measuring 305mm wide x 490 deep x 200 high which sits on top of the UM2 all the time. As I am also concerned about cooking the motors, the bottom end of this box, where the filament etc enters the printer, is left open. The box lid is a loose covering sheet which I remove after my ABS print is over about 10 mm high. I consider that once the print is over this height, the base will no longer distort and you do not want excess heat in the rest of the print which may cause shrinkage distortion. The stepper motors get to 55 to 60 deg C while printing PLA in open UM2 and not a lot higher than this within my box, and only for a while until the lid is removed. The door and box helps maintain the internal temp, but just as importantly, when the box lid is removed it helps to avoid any drafts and excess air flow around the print.

My settings have been 90 deg bed, 230 deg nozzle, no fans, 0.08 layer height, 0.80 shell thickness, 1.04 top / bottom thickness, 24% infill, 40 mm/sec print speed and brim. Others as per Cura standard settings.

The above has resulted in some good parts using Ultimaker and ICE red and black ABS filaments.

A long scree here, but I hope it helps. Good luck.

 

[bigmouse 6]

Thanks Nick, I was wondering if the juice would be hard to remove, thanks for the clarification!

Be carefull with covering the top, if the head gets fouled by the top covering you will get an error signal.

I've been using the allu bag that the abs came in, for the front cover. reflects the heat back into the cabinet, and just the right size!