Dim3nsioneer 558
Also be aware that the spot size of many ir thermometers is larger than the nozzle itself and thus they will meaure a significant amount of background too which is most probably at something like room temperature.
Also be aware that the spot size of many ir thermometers is larger than the nozzle itself and thus they will meaure a significant amount of background too which is most probably at something like room temperature.
The reason I think the sensor might be bad is because my printer won't print. I've alrdy made sure the nozzle isn't blocked and the steppermotor is good but it's like its just not heating up. I am taking the temperature right on the brass block the ultimaker 2 has and am only getting about half of what it should be even if I account for a little error from my IR gun it's should be that far off as I've used it before and gotten good results. Could the sensor be bad and still giving me a reading just not a good one? Should I order a new sensor?
I think I may be having a similar problem with my UMO. I notice that the filament stops extruding or it will under extrude. at first I though I had a blocked nozzle. I replaced the nozzle, the aluminium block and the brass shaft. I still get the same problem. I can't manually force the filament through either so its not the extruding mechanism. the only thing I can think of is that its getting a false temp reading. I have had a couple of instances where the filament will be completely molten when I feed it in for the first time, as though the temp is way too high yet I normally stay between 190 and 230 deg.
I was wondering if it could be the thermocouple amplifier or the sensor? I really cant see it being anything else.
thanks for any ideas.
I had the same problem, I bought a cheap (non-original but still from 3Dsolex) temp sensor and it was reading 210C° while it was actually only 190C° or less. I bought an original UM2 temp sensor and all my problems were gone.I think I may be having a similar problem with my UMO. I notice that the filament stops extruding or it will under extrude. at first I though I had a blocked nozzle. I replaced the nozzle, the aluminium block and the brass shaft. I still get the same problem. I can't manually force the filament through either so its not the extruding mechanism. the only thing I can think of is that its getting a false temp reading. I have had a couple of instances where the filament will be completely molten when I feed it in for the first time, as though the temp is way too high yet I normally stay between 190 and 230 deg.
I was wondering if it could be the thermocouple amplifier or the sensor? I really cant see it being anything else.
thanks for any ideas.
I think I may be having a similar problem with my UMO. I notice that the filament stops extruding or it will under extrude. at first I though I had a blocked nozzle. I replaced the nozzle, the aluminium block and the brass shaft. I still get the same problem. I can't manually force the filament through either so its not the extruding mechanism. the only thing I can think of is that its getting a false temp reading. I have had a couple of instances where the filament will be completely molten when I feed it in for the first time, as though the temp is way too high yet I normally stay between 190 and 230 deg.
I was wondering if it could be the thermocouple amplifier or the sensor? I really cant see it being anything else.
thanks for any ideas.
I had the same problem, I bought a cheap (non-original but still from 3Dsolex) temp sensor and it was reading 210C° while it was actually only 190C° or less. I bought an original UM2 temp sensor and all my problems were gone.
Seems that my problem was a bad contact of the connector in the main board. A gentle touch fixed the problem, but that's just a temporal solution. Really the connector is dodgy and it could fail any moment. A very poor design if you ask me.
Edited by Guest
Recommended Posts
illuminarti 18
What sort of thermometer are you using? IR thermometers are just about useless for measuring nozzle temperatures, because they either assume, or require you to set, a particular emissivity value for the material. However, the emissivity of polished metal is very low, and also highly variable depending on how clean and damage-free the metal is. The best way to measure nozzle temperature that way is to paint the nozzle with a material that has a known emissivity, such as a specific black paint, so that the temperature can be read directly.
Link to post
Share on other sites