0.9mm nozzle settings

[maxvector9 0]

I recently made myself a 0.9mm nozzle to do some rougher but faster prints. However, I cant seem to get the right settings to get good print. I'm using the newest version of Cura. I was hopeing somebody could give me some basic setting information for a decent print with 1.75mm PLA filament.

I currently am using the following settings;

Temp. 210

Speed 20mm/s

Quality:

Layer Height: 0.4

Shell thickness: 0.6

Bottom/Top thickness: 2.7

Initial layer 0.67mm

Initial layer width: 130%

Minimal layer time 5 sec

Fan speed 30%

(Using a RepRap printer)

P.s. How can I select the pattern for the top and bottom. (In stead of zigzaging i want it to spiral)

 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

You are trying to output 20 x 0.9 x 0.4 = 7.2 mm3/s

This is no problem on my UM2, but can your feeder handle this speed?

 

Futher I would say your shell needs to be a multiple of your nozzle size, so f.e. 0.9 or 1.8 in this case.

Same for bottom/top, make it a multiple of your layer hight.

 

And sharing a picture of your result could help ..

 

[Daid 306]

The shell thickness is what's causing problems for you here, goto the 1.8 as Arjan suggests.

 

[gr5 2,167]

Like they said. Shell of .6mm won't look so good on a .9mm nozzle. Also did you set nozzle to .9mm in advanced tab?

If you set nozzle to .9mm and shell to .6mm it will print as though you have a .6 nozzle. Same spacing and flow one would expect for a .6mm nozzle.

 

[jameshs 42]

plus 20mm/s is too slow - the point of having such a large hole at the end is that the plastic practically falls out! - on my .65mm I typically use speeds of 100mm/s or more (depends on the design and ringing artefacts etc,

Plus because of the sheer size of the opening I tend to go as low as I can - which can be as low as 190 - there is a lot of plastic to cool and the fan is not there very long, so the less heat the better or it can all get kind of 'melted in the fire' look - but speed it up and cool it down works great (mainly for me architectural models - I do the walls in .65mm nozzle fast, and detailed stuff in .4mm nozzle slower

 

[maxvector9 0]

It's still not working well at all. Is it possible that the stl file is the problem. Should I model my file with a certain width? 1.8 for instance to match the shell thickness? Because right now it will add small dots of pla inbetween my two shells (showing as yellow dots in Cura)

Also, whenever I try to print the bottom of a vase or cup, it doesnt stay flat, it seems like the temperature causes it to deform.

 

[gr5 2,167]

I don't think you mentioned it was a vase. This is very complicated and there's 3 major concepts/issues to overcome:

1) sticking/warping

2) proper shell width

3) Vases - special case

sticking...

How big are we talking about? The base of the vase? It helps to have rounded corners as sharp corners apply all the lifting forces to one point, then that lifts, and now there is lifting force on a new larger spot and then that lifts, and eventually you get a large enough corner that it stops lifting. Brim helps a TON. Brim feature will help hold that part down nicely. If you have heated bed, set it to 50C and if you have glass bed use some kind of PVA glue - a coating so thin it is invisible (mix with water and spread thin). If you don't have heat use blue tape. Clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol - super critical step to remove the wax. If tape lifts instead of part then use wider tape (50mm minimum - 200mm better).

2) shell width - for a non vase make damn sure you shell width is a multiple of .9 and make sure your nozzle setting in cura is .9. Did you do that? I asked you this question above but you didn't answer.

3) Vases - okay - for best vase results people usually do single-pass-walls. This is a very special way of printing and a special way of doing the model and using cura. You first need a CAD model that is solid. Sometimes you can simulate this by checking most of the boxes in "fix horrible". You want to first convince Cura that your part is a solid cylinder-like thing and it should show lots of diagonal infill where the water would normally go.

Then you uncheck infill and uncheck "top" so that it has no top. Then you can also do "spiralize" if you want. If you don't do spiralize you can choose 1 or 2 shells on your own by setting to .9 or 1.8mm.

If you check spiralize it will do single pass wall (and will also beef up the the joint between the bottom and the wall to prevent water leaks if you put water in it). If you do single pass wall and tell it the wall is 1.8mm now it is doing 200% flow to get a single pass 1.8mm wall out of a .9mm nozzle which may be a problem. Instead I would go no thicker than 1.0mm if you go the spiralize route.

 

[gr5 2,167]

Please post a picture next time. We would have noticed it was a vase which "changes everything". And who knows what other critical piece of info would be learned with a picture.