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emilio2

Colorfabb PLA, layers not sticking

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I have been trying some PLA samples from the Colorfabb samples kit, on my UM2. The kit is new, so I understand the filament is the latest Colorfabb is selling.(They sell this filament as PLA/PHA).

The parts I print do not stick to the build platform no matter what temperature I use. And the layers do no stick to each other, so there are layer displacements here and there.

I have tried bed temperatures from 60 to 75C and hotend from 210 to 235C.

Speed is set at 50mm.

I have no problems using other filaments like Ultimaker PLA or even cheap bulk PLA filaments.

Other than the adherence problem, I have found the printed parts come out pretty soft. I can bend them easily(without breaking them), which is not typical of PLA parts.

Has anyone experienced this problem with Colorfabb filaments?

Which is the right setting for these filaments to print on UM2 ?

emilio.

 

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Hi Emilio,

just received my batch of a Colorfabb order a week ago.

The first i tried out was Chocolate Brown and it was not sticking like i was used with the

Ultimaker filament.

The current setup i am using for my Ultimaker 1 with heated bed :

 

  • 215C for Extruder
  • 70C for the Heated bed until a height of 1 mm
  • then switch to 50C for the heated Bed
  • and use the glue stick

Yesterday i printed a chair for my daughters doll house and i nearly couldn't remove it from the heated bed !!!!

So i am still searching for the perfect Tradeoff Stickiness vs Removability .... but currently

i am happy that it sticks ;)

Maybe you could tell us which colour you have tried out ....

BTW .... is there any database/excel with approved parameters for certain filaments ?

I know they are not always the same, but it would be a good starting point ?

 

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i pretty much only use colorfabb and ultimaker filament and use pretty much default settings for both. i print from 0.2 to the mich finer 0.06 with no issues apart from nozzle jams but after using my white colorfabb to atomic pull so i can see ANY carbonised partcles left on it. ever since i been doing that i have perfect prints. i use pritstik power for my glue but its a bit strong so i just put a bit and smear it about with water. i print at 210 for slow prints ie 35mm/s and 230c for everything around 50-70 mm/s.

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I print with everything default even the fans and only change the layer height nozzle temp and, so i didn't check, probably 60 or something, but i found that the glue is way more important than the bed temp as people without heated beds can print with PLA no problem. I never used that weird blue tape neither as with my prittstik power i dont re-apply for up to 20-30 prints which is obviously better for lazy people like myself. Also the height at which the printer starts the first layer is the most important as that is when the glue stuff needs to work, then you walk away for a few hours and pray you dont get any jams...

I always align the bed screws on the fly as that is the time when you know your good to leave it to print or not.

Its a bit of a time rush thing, but get used to the way you need to turn the screws to tighten or loosen them againt the nozzle, and as soon as you start the print and it draws that outline thing, that is the time you need to calibrate the bed (make sure your nozzle is properly clean). Assuming you've put the glue on right and its the right glue (not the bumpy one), once it starts drawing after its little pile of extrusion at the start get ready to turn the screws. if you don't see it sticking them your nozzle is too far away so turn the nearest screw counter clockwise, then keep looking at the thickness of that first layer and make sure its as even as you can get it.

you only need to do this every now and then, or in your case if its not sticking. i never recalibrate even after removing the entire glass tray and putting it back, but if you need to its just a few turns here and there.

Its hard to explain how to apply the glue. ive heard people use hair spray, but i cant see that lasting nearly as long as glue, but i guess its up to you, there are no rules here. I just bought loads of glues until i found one that layed on smooth and not lumpy like the regular pritt stik and other paper glues. its all abount the right texture of the glue and an even application of it on the glass plate, not bumpy cos you dont want it going in your nozzle.

Hope ive helped a bit, here are some random pics that may/may not be useful to you. dont be afraid to experiment. Ive taken my UM2 apart and dropped bits here and there and have had all sorts of issues due to messing around with it (which is why i got it originally) , but with a little TLC repairs and rebuilds its as good as new, and i havet replaced anything on it.

20150406_175353.jpg

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image upload

 

20150409_173448.jpg

posted image

 

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