Its running the latest firmware.
Will try factory reset.
I've tried pulling it out on mine and i managed to get 3 out of 4 pins out without much effort there's not much room but it's possible
Thanks @DidierKlein, I was eventually able to get both sides out. the last bit took a while but got them out in the end without breaking anything.
So I have tightened both belts, Done atomic pulls a few times, Reset Firmware, adjusted temps, slowed down.
None of them really solved it. I can get the lines to join but only when I go up to 225deg.
I used the Gcode in my UM2 (surprisingly worked fine) and it printed fine and was able to even drop the temp 10 degrees and it still printed ok.
This looks like basic underextrusion. Your temp sensor may be off by 20C or so. Try testing your nozzle temp:
I tested the temp using your method and it seemed to be hotter then yours.
So I got out my temp tester and put a thermocouple inside the nozzle and held one on the outside. the first pic shows the temp inside the nozzle and the second shows the external temp.
As you can see the nozzle isn't cold.
I also installed Roberts Feeder and it didn't help.
I'm only concerned as my UM2 doesn't have these problems with the same Gcode file.
I know you are very experienced but I have to ask: What temp, speed, layer height were you using for that pink part?
Keep in mind that the speed is controlled in like 7 places in Cura.
Also what was your shell width set to? It looks like .8 but if it's actually .85 or .9 that would explain the problem.
Also is flow rate at 100% in your filament settings in the um2go and flow at 100% in the um2go?
Also is this pink filament more than half empty? And have you used this same roll of filament on another printer successfully?
I know you are very experienced but I have to ask: What temp, speed, layer height were you using for that pink part?Keep in mind that the speed is controlled in like 7 places in Cura.
Also what was your shell width set to? It looks like .8 but if it's actually .85 or .9 that would explain the problem.
Also is flow rate at 100% in your filament settings in the um2go and flow at 100% in the um2go?
Also is this pink filament more than half empty? And have you used this same roll of filament on another printer successfully?
The Pink roll is a new one that came with the printer and haven't tried it on another machine yet but I have used blue on the UM2go and it had the same problem. Also the test print done at Ultimaker that came in the box was silver PLA and it also had the problem.
I have printed a few items with my own settings and also printed items that came on the SD card with the printer.
Setting pulled from the Gcode are as follows:
was printed with default PLA setting of 210deg, flow on machine set to 100% and 2.85mm diameter. I measured the filament and its 2.85mm
I also still have issues with the material skipping back, even with Roberts feeder. I have also unwound the roll so the filament is really loose.
I'm beginning to think the Teflon part may have something wrong so I will check it.
Well it looks like I have solved my issue.
I removed the Teflon insulator and it had a rough texture. I passed some filament through it and compared it to a spare insulator. The one from the UM2go was hard to pass the filament through. the indentations from the feeder was scraping along the inside and wasn't smooth. while the spare one i had passed through easily. After replacing it here is the print results, A big improvement.
Will contact support to get a replacement.
Good idea Teflon part.
Could also be manufacturing residu inside
nozzle. or Horribly mal-manufactured PLA.
Some item inside powden tube? did you try to manually
feed something through the bowden tube?
So it was some kind of under extrusion. Interesting that you solved it. I would not have thought about the teflon as it's a new printer fresh with no printing.
Maybe select this answer as the best one to put it up in the topîc?
Yeah it was kind of troubling for me. but just a process of elimination. only other thing after this was the nozzle but i can go down to 190 now with no under extrusion.
The best answer thing is a bit of a flaw when you find your own best answer but i cant mark my own. Also my first question was answered by you @DidierKlein earlier but my issue continued and turned out to be something else entirely. So would marking the best answer for the original question be best or what fixed my issue?
Labern thanks for posting your findings. If you did not already, may I suggest you install the I2K insulator by http://www.3Dsolex.com. Since the moment I have installed it, my teflon coupler problems are happily solved, it is really very effective in protecting the teflon from warn and deformation.
http://3dsolex.com/i2k-insulator
Edited by GuestLabern thanks for posting your findings. If you did not already, may I suggest you install the I2K insulator by http://www.3Dsolex.com. Since the moment I have installed it, my teflon coupler problems are happily solved, it is really very effective in protecting the teflon from warn and deformation.
Hey, I have A I2K ready to install along with an Olsson Block, wanted to keep it stock at this stage for testing perposes and cos it's to new I also had installed one on my UM2 and had issues when printing tiny parts so I removed it again. But I will retest it as it may have been something else that caused the issues.
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Labern: How about new firmware upload / factory reset?
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