Daid

The firmware will need a complete rewrite. The board runs linux, so it will need to be done in a linux driver. Which might scare some people, but isn't really that different from being in a micro-controller environment really. It's something that doesn't scare me at all :mrgreen:

I might be able to design an "upgrade shield" something you plug into the board instead of the Arduino and then you can plug the Beaglebone into that. Which would be cheaper then a full board replacement. Electrical wise I can make it work. How much components will be needed depends on the temperature sensor, and if it will work on 3.3V.

My stock fan shroud fell apart on the 3th print... it's the only part in the kit that I found bad really.

Many multipart things on thiniverse come in plates, like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/image:76692 And I'm wondering, has anyone with an ultimaker tried to print one of those plates? And what where the results? I'm kinda afraid to try because of the amount of strings I get. I haven't tried printing with reversal yet, so I don't know how much that helps with strings.

Ultimaker 8 hour single person assembly timelaps Cat failing to get into ultimaker to steal goodies

Maybe you can mail them to ask if they would sell you a kit without the lasercut parts and PLA. Which both are the largest bits in the kit. Removing those should save a lot on shipping, and might save enough to get below the 1000 AUD. But they are quite busy shipping full kits, so they might not do it.

This was also posted on hackaday: http://hackaday.com/2011/11/15/a-techni ... 3d-prints/ From the comments: I really like the "pop off by itself" part. Because I still have removing issues from the blue tape.

http://reichelt.de/ sells them for 29 cents, which is cheaper then Farnell. They also have affordable nuts&bolts, and loads of other stuff.

To check: 1) Is the extruder motor turning during the print? Is the bolt turning with the big gear? (my gear was slipping on my bolt during first prints) 2) The default start.gcode in some version turns the heater off! Check for M104 or M105 in your generated GCode. If they are there you could use the Temperature plugin of SF to set the temperature. Or remove them from the start.gcode and disable the temparture plugin in SF, so you can use the manual control to set the temperature before printing. 3) Which firmware are you running, I assume it's the default as you are doing first test prints. (Good, don't upgrade until you get prints to work)

The PCB on those fans does the PWM, which is not very wise, as it does the same as the PWM on the UM board.The BD679 is turning the fan on/off. So if it's always on then it's most likely fried. It could be that the output of the Arduino is fried, easy to test, turn on the board without the Arduino connected. If the fan turns on, the BD679 is fried.

Maybe :roll: But I've seen worse. A lot worse. So don't sweat it. You're not flaming anyone, so that's good. (I've been moderator on a forum with at least one flamewar a week, usually more, with only 140 users or so) As long as the forum is running cleanly, which I think it is right now, they don't really need a moderator. They could use someone with photoshop to make a better logo. Or atleast update the configuration so the logo image isn't squashed, because the image is quite fine: (It can be configured in the Administration Control Panel->Imagesets->Edit->Main_Logo)

The wiki is quite up to date, I managed to assemble a Rev3 kit (which they are shipping right now) without to much problems. So don't worry. One of the issues I had was that it wasn't clear for me where the cable guides had to go. Which is written in text, but I found it a bit hard to follow. It's simple, the 2 large ones go in front, the 2 short ones in the lower back (you'll understand once you get there) And the final cabling can be a bit messy: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20110919 ... small.jpeg

I need to work out the math for this. But I have an idea how to do this, it needs to use up to twice the normal thread width at some points, but then you could create an almost perfect fill for thin walls.I need to fix my perimeter code for this (which I'm working on right now, requires a custom "straight skeleton" implementation, which I haven't nailed yet). I've done some updates on the UI: The buttons now show the "level" of the setting: beginner/normal/advanced/kitchensink = white/orange/yellow/red. To make it easier if you are configuring with more settings visible. I've added categories like seen in Slic3r (Always copy good ideas)

To change the firmware you first need the Arduino IDE. You can download it from http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software The current Master version of Marlin has the PID enabled, which isn't stable as far as I know (once it works it will regulate temperature better, but if it doesn't work then you'll run into problems) You can download my version: https://github.com/daid/Marlin/downloads Which I've been using without problems so far. It doesn't have the PID enabled. And there is some support for a 2nd extruder in it, but it doesn't do anything by default. You want to remove the two lines that say: Serial.print("Marlin "); Serial.println(version_string); Around line 300, in the file Marlin.pde (which it the file you need to open with the Arduino IDE) Then use the "upload" button in the Arduino IDE to get your new firmware into the board. (Don't worry, you can always restore the original firmware by using RepG) If that doesn't help. Try changing the "#define BAUDRATE 115200" in Configuration.h to "#define BAUDRATE 57600" (which is another difference between the stock 5D firmware and Marlin)

Never ask to be a mod!! Actually, do, it's a perfect way to spot people who you don't want to be mods. Bad spelling/grammar and impatience are also bad characteristics for a moderator.

This might be because the Marlin firmware sends 2 lines on startup, first a "version" message and then a "start" message. Older versions only send the "start" message. (RepG reports the version message as an unknown message)

The kit comes with almost everything you need (even the right screwdriver for the hex bolts) I only added: -A knife (to finish the laser cuts, which where not perfect in my kit) -A computer (for reading the instructions) -A screw driver with a hex nut bit. (optional, you can also use pliers or your hands) -A hammer (don't ask, really, don't)

They are here, but they are also busy (building Ultimaker kits). I think there hasn't been a single spambot registration after Nov 12.

You could. But my co-workers would kill me if I tried. I personally wouldn't want to listen to the machine all day long. (Knowing my some of co-workers, the machine would run none-stop)

You can build it with 1 person in a 8 hour stretch: But I recommend splitting it in a 2 day build, I was really tired at the end.

I'm not seeing belt wear. Are you sure your pulleys are aligned? Maybe your belts are slightly skewed and so they are pressing the belts to the sides of the pulleys.

It's silent compared to a CNC milling machine ;-) I regally watch TV with my Ultimaker running in the same room, you can hear the Ultimaker but the TV makes more noise (My ultimaker is standing on isolation material, reduced the noise quit a bit)

Blender is not really a CAD program, it's more a 3D modeler. Sketchup is a bit in between. If you want to design mechanical parts then a CAD program is easier, if you want to create pretty things, then a 3D modeler is better. Al these tools can be quite tricky to learn, and tutorials help a lot (also for sketchup)

So far all math methods of calculating the M92E are quite off. The M92E is the amount of steps your machine needs per mm of filament. So if you know the diameter of your bolt, the amount of steps the stepper takes per circle, and the gear ratio, then you should be able to calculate it... but you can also use the manual method. Put a piece of tape on the filament, execute an "G1 E100", measure how much the filament has moved. It should have moved exactly 100mm. If it moved 110, then your M92E is off by 10%: newM92E = oldM92E * 100 / movementInMM;

I got hex nuts instead of square nuts ;-)The software requires a bit of getting to know, some setting tweaks, but it's not that hard. You don't need programming experience or anything. And if you don't know which setting to tweak, then you can just ask, because everyone is more then happy to help here. But one rule is pretty easy, the slower the print the higher the quality.