Daid

With all these tips to "upgrade to Marlin!" going around. I thought, the Arduino development environment is quite a hurdle. And I wanted to add pre-build hex files to my Skeinforge_PyPy. But then I figured, I want to give people options, options to set the baudrate, options to enable/disable the software endstops (which is causing greef) and many more... So I ended up with... http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ A tool to help you build every type of Marlin you want. Packed up in an easy installable way. The zip version comes with "avrdude" and a batch file for windows. You don't need anything else to install the firmware. It's building my own branch of Marlin, https://github.com/daid/Marlin which is up to date with the ErikZalm version, with a few build fixes I encountered. It caches build, so if you choose the same options it's instant ready for download. It's still experimental, but the ErikZalm branch is proving to be pretty stable. And I've been printing with this version without problems. Note that some combinations of settings might not build. If it's something that should work, let me know. I hope this helps in pointing people to proper versions of Marlin.

I just put this in the wild: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ A tool to build the latest and hottest Marlin with any option you want. This is newer then the Marlins in RepG. This is the ErikZalm branch. If you are still printing from RepG you most likely want to set the baudrate to 38400 and disable the "Software endstops" and "Endstops only for homing" options. As those are causing confusion by many Marlin starters. Or, this link should be exact that version: (I hope the forum allows links this large) http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build ... inTemp=190 (I actually had contact with Erik de Bruijn about upgrading/fixing some of the Ultimaker default software problems, but I haven't heard from him in a while, guess they are busy with lots of stuff)

I'm still printing with my first 2.3kg, about half way trough it. But Joris can print multiple kg a day. As the prints can be hollow, and it depends on what you print to see how much filament you use. So what are you planning to print, and how often?

You'll need to run it separately from ReplicatorG. If you are up and running with your printer, it's best to upgrade to Marlin firmware. And use a new version of skeinforge. You can get skeinforge at http://skeinforge.com/ Or you can download my Skeinforge_PyPy version: https://github.com/daid/Skeinforge_PyPy/downloads (windows only) which is preconfigured to work with the latest version of Marlin on an Ultimaker (You still have to install Marlin yourself) I've been running with latest development Marlin, and my Skeinforge_PyPy SF46 without a hitch. It also comes with PrintRun, which is a better replacement to print with then ReplicatorG. It's missing 1 or 2 features compared to ReplicatorG, but it's much more stable, which is better for long prints. For Marlin, ook here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Marlin_firmwa ... _Ultimaker

Check your power connector. Mine was not making a very good contact. When talking to Erik about it he told me that they got a bad batch of supplies with 0.4mm too small plugs. Replacing the connector can help. I did this: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120118_203802.jpeg

In the default setup the dimensions plugin is disabled, this is an mistake, and it should be enabled. Once you get printing running, it's recommended to upgrade to Marlin with SF42 or higher.

Are you using skeinforge? Is the temperature plugin enabled? Because this will change your temperature during printing, removing any effect of preheating you have done.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13571 these are the laser cut parts. There is also a cnc version on thingiverse. As for all the parts, you'll have to search around a bit. Normally the Ultimaker is sold as a kit, but you can self-source it.

Does your start code has a M92? Because that overwrites that value.

When they ship you'll get a tracking number from DHL.

That's almost certain a driver overheating problem. So you need to adjust those tiny pot-meters on the drivers, like in the guide linked in my previous post.

If you are running windows. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=153 this version has all the default settings correct.

The tube needs to make a perfect connection to the peek part. Any gap can cause melted filament to get stuck in the gap, causing blockage. So you better make sure it's square.

The electronics need the cooling, and for proper cooling you better fit them properly. Instead of 2 bolts screwed into the threaded spacer you could take normal spacers and a long bolt with a single nut at the end. It will be more tricky to assemble, but still work.

Very firm actually. I managed to compress the filament so much that it got stuck in the bowden tube. If it's too lose you'll chip away at the filament and dig into it. I think it need to be pretty firm. (I don't have reversal enabled, which might cause extra grinding problems)

I would expect an upgrade. You could even do it right now if you want. But you need to source and build some things yourself. Like a 2nd extruder drive. The latest marlin firmware understands multiple extruders, so that's prepared. There is room for a 5th polulu. And I guess you could order a "replacement" head from Ultimaker for the 2nd head.But you'll be doing experimental stuff, so expect problems.

The head should just touch the bed on z0. Reducing the first layer speed can help with the first layer. You can reduce the first layer speed in the "Raft" settings, enable the raft, put the base and interface layers to 0. Then you can use the reduced first layer speed setting to change the speed of the first layer. I also had a "head blob" problem, it was caused by the initial extrusion done by the start code. It extrudes something like 15mm of filament, which is a bit much IMHO. So I reduced that to something like 3mm. You need to adjust the E values in the start code for this. Finally, you can reduce the speed during the print, and clean off any blobs on the head during the printing with some pliers.

Order 362 was shipped on 7-9-11 and payed for on 4-8-11 Won't help you now, as time to ship might have been increased.

There is some room for dual extruders. But from what I heard on the Ulti-evening it didn't sound like it was high on the priority list. There are issues with the two colors mixing with each other during print because the 2nd 'drips' a bit. The makerbot dual extrusions are done in blue and green, which doesn't show very well when you blend the colors (blue + bit of green = blue, green + bit of blue = green) but if you mix black and white it really shows black strings in the white. (Not sure who told this) Also the software for dual extrusion is still in the child phase.

Actually I think I read it does actually sees if there is an arc and smooths it out. Actually, Slic3r can do that. And emits a G2 or G3 code then. Which the Marlin firmware understands as an arc. But Marlin itself does no attempt in trying to find arcs itself (it doesn't have the time to do so)

If we knew, then they would be out of business Usually shops like Ultimaker buy stuff in big batches from suppliers that only sell in big batches. So it won't do you to much good. Note that there is difference in PLA quality. I talked to someone who had cheaper PLA then most shops (less then 20euro per kg) however, it seemed to perform pretty bad. On inspection it wasn't as the same thickness everywhere. Not sure if that caused the problems, but he had quite a few issues with printing with it.

I think you have a problem with belt tension. This also causes circles to go square a bit. The marlin algorithm doesn't change the actual line it prints, it only changes the speed at which it does (acceleration to prevent jerky movements)

Well, slic3r produced an pile of goo for me when I tried it. With Marlin. But I've seen people get good results with it. But the models I'm slicing right now are < 2 minutes with Skeinforge_PyPy so that's fine for me.

The motor is most likely fine. But you might want to check the settings of the motor drivers. See: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers The "very hot" and "ticking noise" might indicate that the current is turned up to high. (If you disconnect the USB the Arduino is turned off, and that turns off the Polulu step motor drivers)

Nope, but any basic text editor can edit GCode. Not sure why you want to edit it...