Daid

They used to perfecly adjust them, because mine are great. But maybe (just a guess) with the large volumes they had to ship they got a bit sloppy on that point. Which isn't that good, especially if the instructions say they are fine.

I came from the BfB rapman... I would say that one was a 1000 bucks down the drain actually. Its sitting here using the space, half-broken because I didnt want to print replacement parts for it. I am afraid that if I transport it somewhere, it would break apart :S If someone knows a good use for it, please tell me. Use the parts to build a 2nd ultimaker. The motors, rods and electronics should be good. You could also use the parts for an eggbot or an CnC mill. Or sell the parts.

You'll need to modify RepG before it connects to 250000, but using PrintRun is better overall.

The insides of a car can quickly get up to 60deg on a hot day. The sun sort of turns it into a oven, even with the windows turned down a bit. But it should be possible to print ABS without a HBP.

It might work fine for a while because the drivers are not overheated yet? And when the motors is "not working" it's still getting current to keep it at the same point, that's why turning the motors is very hard when the power is enabled. So even when the motor is not turning it will still use power and heat up the drivers. One of the M commands is suppose to turn off all the motors. But I've never tested that myself. "middle" sounds high. See: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers

Oh, I've put this project on halt while I try to understand how Skeinforge works a bit better. Slic3r is also producing good results now with less slice time. And I've hacked skeinforge to work with pypy (see skeinforge forum section) which make skeinforge run at acceptable speeds.

It could also be the current settings on the motor drivers. If the current is to high then the polulu driver overheats and it will shut off, causing stuttering. If the current is to low it won't be able to turn the motors with enough torque, causing the vibration.

You could increase the baudrate to 250000, this could help. Also, using PrintRun will really help. And as a last resort you could open the GCode file, and replace all the spaces with nothing. This will make GCode that most tools won't understand, but the Marlin firmware will understand it. It saves about 10% of communication data.

For windows, I also had "stopping" problems, and other people I talked to monday had the same problem. Short pauses of 1~5 seconds. It seems to be related to the USB. I get around it by using an USB headset in the same machine and play music while I'm printing. Strange solution, but it works. Linux might also solve it, haven't really played a lot with linux in combination with the ultimaker yet.

They could be swarmed with mails. They recently hired extra people and moved to a new building. I don't know when you mailed them, but the message might got lost somewhere. To give an example how busy they are, when I ordered mine, it arrived in 5 weeks. People that ordered a month later had to wait 8~10 weeks. They are working on a HBP, because we've seen them already. But they still had tape on them, so they aren't perfect yet. There where aluminum plates you could place instead of the plexiglass plate. They are also experimenting with glass, which should work great. They sanded the glass so the material really sticks to it.

Indeed, impressive I wonder how good it will hold up to lots of bending. Or will it fail to something similar to metal fatigue.

I've printed at 160mm/s but that required a high temperature and doesn't produce perfect results. I'm unsure how fast the defaults are so not sure how much % faster this is. The limit seems to be in how much filament you can push trough the nozzle, not really the speed of the head. So if you use smaller layers you can go faster

Good to know you fixed it. To bad that there is a bad PCB every once in a while. (PCB testing is expensive, so they might have cut a few corners there...) Also, fancy paint job!

Mmm... yes, but it might take a while, because the commands are buffered. If you change the speed you should hear the difference, because a difference in speed make a different sound.Maybe Printrun doesn't send commands from the right column while it's printing. I haven't really tested that yet. Also, which firmware version are you using? M220 S** should work in Marlin. But I'm not 100% sure if it works in Spinter or 5D.

PrintRun is also called "Pronterface" sometimes (or Pronterface is the printing interface in the PrintRun package) It can do "live tuning" but it doesn't have an special interface for it. You can do speed tuning with the "M220" command. If you send a "M220 S200" it will run at 200% speed. So you can create some custom buttons with "50% speed" "75% speed" "100% speed" "150% speed" "200% speed". I have plans to add a tuning window to Pronterface, but it's one of the many plans I have. So don't wait up for it.

Well, it fitted right on the existing model, and the electronics are prepared for it. So you would expect a kit version. But I didn't talk to the Ultimaker team about it (we had so much to talk about and so many people to talk to)

People have run their ultimaker for more then 20 hours. It won't overheat, or instantly catch fire. If it's build properly that is, and you don't add explosives The worst case scenario is an extruder jam. Which means the extruder drive will have grind down the filament by the next morning, and, worst of all, your print will have failed. I think you can double that speed with ease. Your limiting factor with the print you showed in the film is the amount of cooling the previous layer gets when you put the next on top. Also, if you are printing from RepG. I recommend you switch to something more stable like PrintRun or SendG. RepG has been known to ruin long print sessions. PS. It never hurts to have smoke detectors, just to be sure.

The heat is controlled by the 2nd heater and temperature sensor. Ultimaker might come with a heated bed, they had a few machines on show with heated beds on show this monday.

The tube should connect fully to the peek, there shouldn't be any room for that plug to form at all.

The "early" kits (like mine) have a 6mm bed, but the 6mm bed doesn't stay perfectly straight over time. So they replaced it with a 10mm bed. You can try sanding it down, but it will be hard to get perfectly flat. You might just want to flip it around my bed also has a few... marks. So once I get everything in perfect order I'll just flip the bed around. But for now it's straight enough. You can also mail the UM team, they should be able to sell you a replacement.

If you swap the end-switches around (begin to end/end to begin) does the problem move with it? I expect it will because you measured the switch. But it's always good to be sure. Could also be a cable problem, which can be annoying because it works sometimes and fails other times. Sadly, there have also been reports of bad soldering. The end-stops are straight from the connector to the Arduino, so there are only a few pins you need to check. If you have a soldering iron, just disconnect all electronics, remove the arduino (so you don't damage it), and heat up those pins so the solder reflows. (You can add a tiny bit more solder to make the flowing easy) You'll need to solder the connector in which you plug the endstop, and large dual row of pins in which the Arduino is socked. Those are the pins that are needed for the endstop to function. See: http://daid.eu/~daid/UltimakerPCB ... totype.JPG

That's the "use endstops only for homing" feature. You can disable this feature. Or you can use my Skeinforge_pypy build: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=153 which is preconfigured to work with that feature enabled.

You're not the only one http://beagleboard.org/bone this one is slightly cheaper. But I'm interested in your software setup on the board, as mine is very basic right now.

Which version of marlin are you using? I know I had a development version that had feedrate issues. Where did you get your marlin from and how did you install it?

ABS is 3 letters, which is to short for the generic phpbb search engine.