Daid

You're welcome. The feed issue could be mechanical, not settings. For me on my first prints the hobbed bolt was slipping on the large gear. So the gear was turning, but it was not really pushing the filament. So check that the bolt is rotating at the same speed as the gear. Then you could also check if the filament itself slips (and tight that screw a bit, but don't tight it to much!) Then again, it could be the feedrate settings. Upgrading to Marlin with SF41 or higher is highly recommended so you can use the filament diameter instead of the kinda awkward feedrate settings. (Skeinforge_pypy: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=153 is also an option, it has all the settings pre-configured for the ultimaker, but it's still a bit experimental)

Did you try to print that GCode? Because it does show E values for the first set of G1 codes. The other set of G1 codes might be cooling (Set the cool plugin to "slowdown" instead of "orbit" with a time of minimum layer time of 10 seconds). I also recommend you disable the "temperature" plugin, and just preheat yourself before printing.

I sometimes have the same problem, but always on the first few layers. For me, I'm guessing that one of the motors is giving off interference to one of the end stops, causing a movement to be skipped. Another posibility is that the head gets stuck and doesn't move, OR (and I had this happen to me yesterday) that you bed is moving off the screws. Slower print speed can help in this case.

I did some more organic prints, and my conclusion is that this problem doesn't show up on those types of prints. Giving a bit of a false sense of quality. http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111213_223459.jpeg (same settings) http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111213_232929.jpeg (half layer thickness 0.1mm)

I picked SF41 because that what I'm using right now. But I planned to do multiple versions. (just want to know this works first) I don't own a Mac. And from experience I know that you better not try to make anything for a Mac without testing it on a Mac. Also, this SF is not compiled, it's just the scripts packaged with portable versions of python and pypy.But if you have python installed on your Mac. You could download the zip package for windows. Extract it, then remove the /python/ and /pypy-1.7/ directories. Get pypy for from http://pypy.org/download.html and extract it to the same location. (should create a pypy-1.7 directory again). Change line 580 in target/SF41/skeinforge_application/skeinforge.py: (the /bin/ is not needed for the windows version) pypyExe = os.path.normpath(os.path.join(os.path.dirname(os.path.abspath(__file__)), "../../pypy-1.7/bin/pypy")); And then run skeinforge with: python SF41/skeinforge_application/skeinforge.py

That's fucky, looks like waves. My lines are actually pretty straight. My print was only at 60mm/sec. But it could be the same problem. I think the problem is also more noticeable at the X axes then on the Y axes, because the bowden tube puts keeps the head pressed to 1 side. Some custom GCode that prints a 1 perimeter square going clockwise and counterclockwise on each layer should show it I guess...

Great. That also instantly shows what's wrong. Many of those "G1" commands should have an E value (E controls the extruder motor)Which is most likely caused by the "Dimension" plugin not enabled. So you'll need to enable it. (Quick guide: Open RepG, press "generate GCode", press "edit", open "dimension" tab, enable it, save all settings)

Important first questions: Did you change the firmware? (Else you are on 5D stock firmware) Which version of RepG did you use? Can you post the generated GCode somewhere? ( http://pastebin.com/ for example)

I've created a skeinforge version, based on SF41 which runs on windows, but 4x faster. And ready for the ultimaker with Marlin or Sprinter without many configuration changes. It should need only a little configuration (all the defaults have been updated). It's also packaged with everything you need (Python and PyPy) so it's ready to run. You can download it at: https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/downloads The github page also contains the patch I applied on Skeinforge, and the scripts needed to rebuild the same package. You should be able to: [*:dbl7ku2b]Download Skeinforge_pypy.zip [*:dbl7ku2b]Extract the zip. [*:dbl7ku2b]Run SF41.bat [*:dbl7ku2b]Change the Filament Diameter (but the default should work pretty ok) [*:dbl7ku2b][optional if using PLA]Change the Filament Packing Density to 1.0 (default is set for ABS) [*:dbl7ku2b]Setup start.gcode and end.gcode in .skeinforge_pypy/alterations/ [*:dbl7ku2b]Press the [skeinforge a file...] button to select an STL file. [*:dbl7ku2b]Print the resulting GCode List of changes: [*:dbl7ku2b]All settings are saved in .skeinforge_pypy, so it won't mess up your normal profiles. [*:dbl7ku2b]Uses PyPy instead of Python to do the actual slicing. Which is a lot faster. [*:dbl7ku2b]Updated all defaults to make sense for an Ultimaker with Marlin/Sprinter [*:dbl7ku2b]Contains the dimension fix needed against stutter. [*:dbl7ku2b]Contains the slice speedup fix found in SF43 [*:dbl7ku2b]"Width over thickness" has been changed into "Width" with 5D firmware this makes more sense. And won't require you to change any other settings if you change the layer thickness. ToDo: [*:dbl7ku2b]Skeinlayer and Skeiniso don't work. [*:dbl7ku2b]A good start.gcode and end.gcode are not included yet. [*:dbl7ku2b]Other versions then SF41 (which versions should I do?) I hope this helps some people with the very long taking Skeinforge slices. I've been using this setup for a few days now, and it works great for me. So far I've measured a 4x speed increase (compared to stock python). With the only problem being that Skeinlayer no longer works.

I'm having all sorts of problems with the amount of detail I can get from my Ultimaker. Infill not connecting to the perimeter at some times, while it worked at other times. Inaccuracies in the perimeter. And I found out why, there is about 0.1mm play in my linear bearings of the extruder head. Causing sort of a backlash problem. To illustrate the problem, it causes this: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111213_101806.jpeg See the eyes and the nose. You can see it 'stripes' to the right after those, so the lines are more in front compared to the rest of the face. I've checked everything from belt tension so the generated GCode. And the only thing I could find is the 0.1mm play in the linear bearings. If I take the extruder head in my hand, I can "wobble" it around about 0.1 mm. The axes don't move, and the bearings to. So there is play between the bearings and the axles. So I'm wondering: [*:3s4jgmjy]Is this normal? I know atleast 1 other person has this. But I don't think you could print the ultra quality yoda like this. [*:3s4jgmjy]What could I do to fix it? Note: My extruder came pre-assembled, so I didn't mess up the assembly.

I've started with a 2.3KG black PLA spool when I got my ultimaker, and I'm about half way trough it. I got my printer half September. But I'm not printing large things or lots of things. If I would print every day I would be using my 2nd spool already.The "start with small spools" tip is very good. The 2.3kg spools are heavy and bulky, while the 0.75kg spools are easy to handle. You get 0.75kg with the printer, in the color they got in overstock I guess. I didn't get it with my printer (they forgot to package it) so I got to choose the color and they shipped it to me afterwards. (+1 for customer service!) EDIT: Oh, and I also want the flexible PLA. Sounds like a fun material, in a none sex-toy way

I'm not sure about the angles on the vase, but if they are small enough you might be able to print it with just 1 line of 0.4mm thick. A smoother finish requires thiner layers really, not much else.

Just curious, are you a spammer? Yes, using profile links and signature links. It's the first type of sneaky spammer. There is also the type that edits the post a few weeks after posting to get links in.

PLA starts to become soft around 70C not very soft, but if heated at 70C for a long time it will be deformed. As for PLA vs ABS. I've never used ABS, but from what I've read ABS is flexible and PLA is very rigid. PLA breaks before it bends, making snap together items hard to print. Strength between layers becomes much better if you print smaller layers. My 0.3mm prints are much weaker then my 0.2mm prints. So far I've zero 0.2mm prints breaking on layer bonds, and quite a few breaks on layers at 0.3mm. I have a 0.2mm PLA print without infill, only 3 outlines, and it's really strong. I always throw it at people when they ask how strong prints are, just to show them that I feel like it won't break.

For me it's more an inspiration/time issue right now. I know how to work OpenSCAD, Sketch-up and 3D Studio Max I like OpenSCAD because it almost guarantees that you model is manifold and printable. It also allows you to adjust things with ease. But it doesn't cut it for all things. I don't use Sketch-up a lot, but it allows rapid drawing of things, but I found out I could sketch on paper faster and then OpenSCAD it. Lastly 3D studio max, I haven't done any printable 3D modeling in it yet. 3D studio max is ridiculously expensive, but I'm used to the UI and Blender doesn't seem to cut it for me, I always fail to do whatever I try in Blender. But time and inspiration are two main issues. For example, I have an almost finish small eggbot, which I still need to print 2 parts of, wire up and write the firmware. This is a new design, with very few parts and very few none-printed parts. But I'm not sure if it will work, so It's not uploaded yet. I have a partially printed Lathe, but I still need to print some of the larger parts. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12472 Parts for the chuck are quite complex and large. And I have layer shift problems that I haven't found the cause of yet, so printing those larger complex parts or gears is not something I want to try right now until I solved the issue. And then I also want to build something robotic, but I haven't found the inspiration to design it yet.

I'm making extensive use of OpenSCAD. The only problem I found is that the polygon function is hard to use. I rather draw my polygons visual. So I created a simple polygon editor for OpenSCAD in Javascript+HTML. It can be found at: http://daid.eu/~daid/3d/ Action screenshot: http://daid.eu/~daid/Screenshot.png How does it work? Well, simply paste the OpenSCAD code containing polygons in the lower left text area. And the polygons will show up. Then use the edit/add/delete tools to modify the polygons and it will update the code automatically (like magic). Just copy it back to OpenSCAD for the final result. Example code: $fs = 0.4;render() intersection() {rotate([-90,0,0]) linear_extrude(height=20,center=true) polygon([[24,0],[21,4],[15,7],[-13,7],[-21,4],[-24,1],[-24,-5],[-13,-4],[-12,0],[-9,0],[-7,1],[11,1],[13,-1],[25,-2]]);linear_extrude(height=20,center=true) polygon([[23,-3],[25,0],[23,3],[19,6],[12,8],[-20,8],[-23,6],[-24,0],[-23,-6],[-20,-8],[12,-8],[19,-6]]);rotate([-90,0,90]) linear_extrude(height=100,center=true) polygon([[8,-8],[-8,-8],[-8,2],[-7,5],[-5,7],[5,7],[7,5],[8,2]]);}translate([-3,0,-2]) cylinder(r=1,h=20);translate([ 8,0,-2]) cylinder(r=1,h=20); I've tested it in firefox, IE and chrome. Which all worked without a hitch. If you want an offline version. Just save the page, everything needed for the tool to function is in a single HTML file.

Does the extruder head move if you use the direct control window? (the button with the 4 arrows, only available when not printing) Is there an M105 in the exported GCode? (you can switch to GCode view on the left, just below the menus and the toolbar buttons) if there is an M105 in the beginning, then remove that line. It's a "Set temperature and wait for it". Also... (I hope this isn't it) you pressed the print button and not the simulate button?

If I would do a acrylic one, then I wouldn't do any engraving. Like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:10476 There are some lines in there that shouldn't be cut and are engraved in the wooden version. But I would ask the companies what they are missing then. Because when I view the files it's pretty clear to me what should be cut and what should be engraved. And barrychuck (linked above) seems to sell a acrylic parts for $350 inc shipping.

I'm not sure where I read it, but if you increase the X/Y then you'll run into stability problems with the Z platform. It's only held at 1 side making it a big lever. You might need to use 2 threaded rods on both sides, with the added complexity.

Also, skeinforge 43 or higher are also 40% faster then previous versions. But we should make a new RepG version, bundled with newer Skeinforge version and "pypy", which makes skeinforge another 4 times as fast on large builds. Still, the skeinforge interface is... horrible IMHO. It's always in expert mode, options move around between versions a lot. And it feels like a hackjob. I have no experience with Netfabb, but Slic3r (which is quite new, and the results haven't been great for me) has a much better UI.

I understand your fears. However the RepRap firmware and the Ultimaker firmware are vastly different. The RepRap firmware doesn't talk GCode, but some other protocol, which RepG talks. I've actually seen a complain from someone using a RepRap that the Ultimaker firmware was so different and no help for RepRap. I cannot, and will not, force anyone to switch platforms. I'm not here to shatter development, it shattered already really. Which is fine, more options. "A complete redesign of electronics", well, the board just has a feel Pololu drivers and a few power fets connected to an arduino. It's not that fancy, and those parts can stay. Nope it won't. Maybe I should put it like this: I do this for my day job, we (20+ people) program for ARM linux boards every day, under windows, without issues. (We use a lot of C) I'm actually the maintainer of the build environment and linux drivers. So I might know what I'm doing. And saying that "linux is complex!" you might as well say "windows is complex!" which is silly, there are more linux/windows programmers out there then there are microcontroller programmers out there. You could, if you want, run Skeinforge on the ARM board. It won't be the fastest thing, but it's possible. Most code that won't have realtime requirements (so everything that doesn't control the motors) and can be done in a high level language. Something like python, php, java. The only thing timing critical is controlling the motors. Which is something for a driver, but not insanely difficult. Right now one of the main problems in the firmware is the speed of the data channel, the difficulty to debug problems, and the speed of the code. I really only have to say one thing. Trust me. Which is hard, I know.

Paint it. Or cut have the UM parts cut from acrylic (which looks bad-ass). There are companies that will cut this for you. The plans are here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13571 The UM is send as a kit, and the kit is make in The Netherlands. Which is almost in germany

The UM requires 3mm filament. I think I'm half way trough my 2.3kg spool. With many objects, but I print a lot of small things. So it's kinda hard to say. The 2.4kg will last you more then enough time to figure out how fast you spend the filament and when you need to order more.

I think the ultimaker is a bit smaller for the same build area. UM comes with a 0.4mm nozzle, SC with a 0.5mm UM is a lot lighter, so easier to move. The SC Z axle is very different from the UM. It might be more stable, but it also looks easy to get into trouble with the belt drive. By looking at the youtube movies I think the SC is printing quite slow, compared to my UM (which is printing only at 60mm/s, which isn't that fast for an UM) Just compare:

because PLA sticks to the bed better and tends to warp a lot less. PLA is also made from a biodegradable material if I understood it right. However, PLA is also very hard and doesn't bend at all, while ABS has a bit of flex in it.