Daid

Well, the documentation assumes the bushings will be kept in by friction. For reference, I had to hammer my bushings into the blocks. I simply could not get them in by hand.

Yes, that's a problem. Does it need any force to move the bushlings over the rods? (it shouldn't they should slide) If they slide on the rods the holes in the blocks are a bit to large, I guess some glue can solve it?

You're welcome. A "Z adjuster" might help you when this happens again: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11982 There is another one, with instructions on how to remove the metal plong from the microswitch. This increases Z start accuracy even more. But I cannot find it right now.

Looks like you are starting to low, during the first layer the tip should float a tiny bit above the bed, but these results look like what you get when the head is "in" or on top of the bed without clearance. It has trouble getting any material out so the pressure builds up in the head, from time to time some will come out, and once it's "open" you get a LOT of filament, explaining the cone.

The slices height is a setting in the "carve" tab of skeinforge.

If you look on thingiverse you'll find someone who installed a heated glass bed on his ultimaker. Glass has the advantage over aluminium that it's very straight as far as I understood. But it is more fragile.

By default the "endstop only for homing" option is on. Look for the line that says something like "#define ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING" and put two slashes for it. That will disable the option. (you'll have to look for the exact option name, just search for homing or endstop)

If you remove the "inset" from the "bottom" side you won't need support any more. (bottom in the first picture) This way the first layer holds everything else on top.

If you want to do the same with the Ultimaker you'll need to attach 2 fine lasers to the printer head. Because you don't move the bed in the X/Y plane but the printer head. What you simply do is using the lasers at an angle from each other as a cheap range finder.

I'm also confused by the filament shop. You'll never know what will be in it. And many photos are missing and the "no photo - photo": Is as good as invisible. This could use a large "No photo" in gray on top of it. And if products are not in stock but will be available, keep them in the shop! But with a "Product not in stock" reminder, and a possible "due date". I understand the restocking takes a long time, but then put that on the site "back in stock in 2 months" is better then seeing a product go poof. Faberdashery seems like a good source. And they have many colors, and you can order sort pieces. The shipping costs can get a bit silly tough. 1 coil I can select the £6.00 shipping option, 2 coils and the cheapest option is £61.25, which is more then 2 coils cost.

Skeinforge also has a support feature (It's hidden under the raft settings)

I've uploaded alpha3 https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/downloads Which solves the problem with SF41. Add SF46. And has defaults that work with the latest Marlin version. I've also started work on a firmware update option inside Printrun, however that's not done yet.

http://www.spacepiratesandzombies.com/forums/ this forum also had a cool captcha. You have to reassemble an image from parts. It's not very difficult for humans, but it's also not very hard for computers. But requires a whole new angle for the bots to solve. Showing different pictures of 3D printers and ask which machine it is would also solve it I think

"G1 E0.0000" is fine as GCode so it must be the Pronterface that cannot handle it correctly. You should file a bug at the github project, it will most likely get fixed then.

Akismet for a commercial use is not free. (and we are somewhere on a gray line between commercial and community I think) The registration page contains a hack that seems to stop quite a bit of automated spam, but not all of it. (strange, because it stopped all spam at another forum) Disallowing URLs and Email addresses in the your first post would stop a whole deal of more spam. But also not all of it. But having an active moderator is always a good thing. This can happen in 2 ways, the admin asks someone to be a moderator. Or one of the trusted community members asks if he/she can become one. This has to be someone the admin knows very well, and usually these people are very busy. Being a moderator is a shitty job, nobody notices the good things you do, but once you are late or mis something you get all the shit.

3cm or so? That's pretty doable with an ultimaker. But I'm going a bit smaller then that: Click for larger image The left one is the famous Octocat at 50% scale. To the right is the smallest thing I ever printed. It has imperfections that also have to due with settings. However, that's the size that I'm wondering at if a smaller nozzle will help.

I heard a different type of blue also helps. But getting your start Z perfect is also a great help. Lowering your printing temperature also helps in this case. But I have the same problem, I just learned to retape it often. I might go heated build platform one day just to get around this.

A heated bed stops ABS from warping, because it sticks a lot better. But most people are printing PLA with the ultimaker, which sticks fine on the tape. Also, you can build a heated bed for the ultimaker if you want (plans are on thingiverse) The disadvantage of the bowden cable is you get more stringing. However, because it prints faster you can spend time on a cleanup and still be faster then other machines.

No idea. I don't have a spare 2k. And between a 3D printer and a Laser cutter I decided I wanted a 3D printer. Because a laser is more fragile and very expensive (even in a DIY layer CNC you need to put a ~500$ CO2 laser) A quick search results in http://www.lightobject.com/Solo-Desktop ... -P399.aspx

What helped in my decision: [*:2xbxz8yi]The dutch flag, everything is better with a bit of dutch sauce. [*:2xbxz8yi]Clearly good quality prints, the results of most RepRaps wouldn't make me happy. [*:2xbxz8yi]Accessible build instructions, I read those before placing my order. [*:2xbxz8yi]All parts in 1 kit, no hidden extra costs (even filament is supplied with the kit! and a hex-screwdriver!)

Yes, it's the nozzle. Which is why I'm thinking about getting a smaller nozzle. The X/Y steppers are very precise, 80 steps per mm. So it's any play in the mechanical parts that can cause problems there. But if you get your belt tension correct you get this as precise as you want.

More expensive doesn't always mean better. However, the UP! doesn't have a bowden tube, which makes it slower but less problematic with stringing. At 150x150 it's smaller then the ultimaker. And it seems to run on closed software. I like the open nature of the Ultimaker. You can tinker and hack with every single part. I personally didn't think the Ultimaker required much tweaking at all. Once I found the only mechanical problem I had I was printing with ease. It does take 8 hours of assembly. If I had a spare 2k laying around I wouldn't get a 2nd 3D printer, but a laser cutter.

If I put the temperature at 195 my filament grinds to a halt. I guess my sensor has quite an error. 205 seems to be my safe temperature. (The above picture was printed at 230) I should get access to a PrintrBot somewhere within the next few months. As it doesn't have a bowden tube. I guess I know the difference between a bowden and not once we get that up and running. (Friend of mine ordered one after seeing the results of my Ultimaker)

In the Z direction that is. The X/Y direction stil lay down ~0.4mm width lines, so you can get some "rounded" corners, but this isn't visible at all with organic models like the Yoda.

Unless you're really pushing the limits of your current nozzle by dropping the thread width down to 0.35mm (and then trying to get even thinner), a smaller nozzle isn't going to get you any improvement - if anything, it will just make things more difficult because, like Joergan says, smaller nozzles increase the internal pressure. If you've already pushed the thread width down as low as the stock nozzle will handle and it still isn't enough, fine - absolutely go for a smaller nozzle. If you haven't, a smaller nozzle is a waste at this point. Well, my thread wide is on 0.4mm. But when I say small things I really want small things. For example this photo: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111212_194956.jpeg It's a bad print, with 0.2mm layers, a to high temperature and problems with support removal. But that's not the point. The point is, that this print is still 40% to large for my goal. I cut the model in half, printing only up to the waist, so I didn't need support, I also scaled it to 50% size and used 0.1mm layers. I still need to photo it (taking photos from small objects with my phone doesn't work very well) but you can see it has oozing problems. And the 0.4mm nozzle is not cutting it. I'm just trying to see what the machine is capable off. With prints that small you are not printing fast, because cooling becomes a real issue. But that also solves the pressure problem I think?