Daid

Which version of the UM2 firmware are you using?

PEEK isn't a great choice, we tested that with PLA and it jammed within an hour.

Omelette du fromage. (Sorry) Latest beta of Cura has french as language option: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/ So this isn't that special ;-)

Because the firmware is intended for the heated-bed-upgrade-kit. Which has the UM2 Z motor.

It's a project from Joris. Known from the spiralize function, he's also involved in the Kamermaker project. And, he's planning to bring the large Z rail attachment (which he calls "unlimited Z") to kickstarter so everyone can make huge prints. The prints he's making are also special, as he's stitching multiple GCode files together to get areas with different settings.

I am a software engineer. And saying "add multicore support", is like saying, just add more fuel and wheels to your car, then it will go faster.

Are you a software engineer?

There are 282 steps per mm of filament. If you have the motor power on 1500mA you are running the motor out of spec, generating more heat on the axis, and potentially damaging the feeder motor. Also wondering how you did this, as the default limit is set to 1300.

No, I mean the export setting for support angle.

I'm working on this, however, for layer-height, it's 1 setting for the whole model, even with this new code (different layer heights within the same model is just too complex for the code right now)

You sure on that math? 1.2kg of lifting sounds like quite a lot. Actually, that's about the weight of my 2 meter sailplane.

I would look at the bottom of the UM2. Look for the proper holes, and attach the Pi. When we designed the bottom plate, we put mounting holes for a Pi there. Just to be sure.

Rain might have a pretty negative impact on the performance of the props. But it's not that hard to weather-harden electronics. You just have to coat it, and make sure your cooling isn't effected so nothing overheats. I wouldn't even try. There was a post on hackaday a while back which someone who printed their own motor. But it wasn't high performance of efficient or anything. You'll have to go trough tons of iterations. You'll run into balance problems. And you'll get sick of winding the stator after a while. I like the idea of a QUAD/CAR.

There, or the nuts on the end caps of the X/Y rods (8mm rods) which are a bitch to put back in. And I usually replace them with lock-nuts.

Think I messed up the comment or implementation on the overhang angle, as with 0 degrees it does support the parts you want.

This is a visualization bug, some layers are using a different rendering method to render quicker, which does not properly account for the raft.

I'm also curious why you used 90% infill, which is odd and usually not that great for quality.

But, the difference in autonomous and none-autonomous are just a processor and a GPS right? Cost is an important aspect for a lot of people. $500 might be on the nice side for really being into the hobby. But it's on the expensive side for me. I've build a model sailplane, model spirit, 2 meter width, build from scratch with just the drawings. Cost me about 50 euros excluding the electronics. Electronics set me back 200 back then. But most likely cost less then half that right now. As the price of those parts dropped significantly the last 10 years. Think you could build it for less then 150 euros right now. But because of this, I also know people that easy spend 1200 euros or more on a sailplane. So it's important to know what your goal is. Do you want a cheap printable/expandable quad-copter for people who might want to get into the hobby, or do you want a high end machine with all the bells and whistles?

http://daid.eu/~daid/20140812_140930.small.jpg Touch screens arrived! 5 of them. Only 15", but they where cheap at 80 euro per piece. We already have our next hobby-at-work project lined up. And these are an important part for this. We do projects after office hours in our free time, using the tools at Ultimaker. It's just too awesome to have a workshop sitting around without using it ourselves for hobby.

Could be a cooling difference (on one side the fan is closer to the nozzle) Also, is the fender part of the main model, as, are the fender and the boat 1 part? As it looks like there is a small gap between those, which isn't really working as an advantage for you.

So, for the Zortrax and UP you used filament from the printer supplier, and for the Ultimaker you used 3th party? (which does not even sell ABS. So you might have been printing PLA at high temperatures, also explaining the bad prints) If you want a fair comparison you should be using ABS from Ultimaker. After all, we also sell that: https://www.ultimaker.com/t/filaments/abs

I'm actually pretty good at that. Sure, I'm not silent about everything, but there is stuff cooking that I have and will not say a word about.

You need to turn down the fans on the UM2 for ABS. 50% or less fan speed is much better for ABS. Some even say fans off. (I do not have a whole lot of ABS experience)

I'm not saying anything else (because I like mystery) but do not expect UM2 dual-extrusion. Sorry. But I hate to give off false-hopes in this aspect.

Smaller ones are also cheaper, making it easier to join the project. I would love to print&build a small quad-copter. But I do not have loads of cash laying around. So I think making a "ballpark" BOM would be important to start with.