Daid

PLA? Afhankelijk van de kleur wil ik ze best van je overnemen. Ik heb een UM Original met een 3.2mm tube, dus die kan erg veel materiaal accepteren. Maar ik heb net wat nieuwe kleuren gekocht, dus een aantal kleuren heb ik al in overvloed. Voor het bewaren, ik heb laatst m'n eerste rol (zwart) opgeprint, die was al ~3 jaar oud. Zonder problemen. Ik heb deze altijd open bewaard, in een boodschappentas in de buurt van de verwarming. Maar dit hoeft geen gerantie te zijn. Het is wel altijd redelijk droog en donker bewaard. Dus dat zal wel helpen. Zelf ben ik niet super bang dat het slecht wordt. Met drogen in de oven moet je voorzichtig zijn, aangezien PLA al bij 45C kan vervormen. Dus je wilt het eigenlijk op 40 graden langzaam drogen. (Geen ervaring met innofil, zelf hier alleen UM, Colorfabb en Faberdashery)

That could very well be the "minimal extrusion before retraction" kicking in, as it moves from the right to the left and did a retraction just before the spot where it needed to do a new retraction. This feature has been implemented not to make the prints look better, but to prevent problems with jamming printers. You could put the setting to 0 if you are not afraid that you will jam your feeder.

There have also been many historical miles and similar units in other systems that may be translated into English as miles; they have varied in length from 1 to 15 kilometres. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mile So, about that mile you where talking about? Anyhow, I noticed a small thing in my code the other day, and DAE files doe specify the unit size, so I can convert inch to proper mm if sketchup exports the proper unit size in dae files.

Should be about the same in speed, but some settings make it slower (support being a major slowdown)

The main reason why I'm not using multi-threading is to save in code complexity. Not because it cannot be done. There are a few loops in the engine that could be multi-threaded with ease. Which would run about 60% of the code threaded instead of single threaded.

220C voor ABS is onzin, dat gaat nooit werken. De UM2 kan materiaal tot ongeveer 3.0 tot 3.1mm aan. Maar normaal wordt materiaal geproduceerd met een spec van 2.85+-0.05

It's pretty easy to fix that addon, pretty sure you would manage if you open that addon in notepad or something like that.

Yes, that the tools are only working on the selected object. For the "PinkUnicorn" Cura I added a small change, which selected the newly added objects automatically. Which feels a lot better, as it solves the problem you where having without you noticing. (It's a bit harder to do in the current Cura due to the horrible code I wrote over the years) As for imperial. No plans to add any support for that. Sorry.

You are usually better off with a brim then a raft. But the raft base is the first layer of the raft, it's a thick line layer which sticks very well to the bed. The interface layer is the layer on top of that, it's thinner with thinner lines. On top of that are surface layers. On top of that your model is printed. The default settings should work very well with PLA. About your firewall. Sorry, but you'll have to adjust your firewall to be less crazy. The local-loopback IP is your local machine, it's connecting the GUI frontend to the backend engine.

Can you show a screenshot of what you mean? I think that would clear things up.

The in all honesty, don't look in the forums. As this is where we (including the R&D team) talk about stuff that is actually happening. The good and the bad, we're honest here, we tell when we screw up. We tell when new things are happening. We show off beta things from time to time.

Because if you put the grub screws on the flat parts, you will never get it 100% aligned with the flat part, so there will always be a tiny bit of play. We had 1 machine 1.5 year ago which had motors with flat axis, took us forever to find the cause of the problem.

You can use those motors, if the wires are long enough. Just make sure you do NOT fasten the pulleys on the flat part. So the grub-screws in the pulleys should hold the axis on the round part, else you will get print quality problems.

Yes, but the maximum time for a single G4 is limited, (as some counter can overflow) so you'll have to experiment or look in the code to find out that the maximum time for a G4 is

Which options do you miss?

No need to worry about the 5V fan connector, you can safely draw more then 2A out of it.

http://blog.reprap.org/2011/06/new-approach-to-printing-metals.html

I won't say open-source is always faster. But it's continues. CraftWare might be ahead now. But most likely the company behind it threw a lot of money at it to get it at this point. But, how will it progress? We don't know. For example, look at everyones favorite slicer 3 years ago. NetFabb. Where is it now? Only a few poeple still use it, because it dropped behind in easy of use and features. As they stopped investing in it. And all the effort put into it is effectively lost. Note that most points I see above are already addressed in the PinkUnicorn version. As they are simple access to some settings or different way of accessing those settings. (Except for the perimeter behavior, but this actually has a technical reason. I'm also not sure if the craftware way results in the best outer skin look and dimensional stability, as cooling will act differently. Might test it one day, as changing this can be done, but I rather not. It also does not save a whole lot of time or anything)

The UM2 hotend can heat-up about 3.5 degree per second. I'm pretty sure you should be looking at a mechanical problem, trying to hide this with firmware tweaks will only make it worse in the end.

The main graphical screen and the amount of lines of text you can see at the same time are the main differences.

Quickprint is on the axe-list. While it serves a good goal, it's dated, and I hate the code behind it. I have some better ideas which much better serve the needs of the quick print.

So... you mount it in a box? Little reason why it needs to be an Ultimaker. Ikea has lots of cheap options that would fit better. The UM casing is also a bit small for a scanner. (The bed has little added value, as moving up/down moves you out of the focus or visible range of the camera)

Can you elaborate on which features you like in CraftWare? (Except for the support part, I've seen that, liked it, hope to learn from it)

No problem. I live. Math and programming are 2 different fields for a reason. Some stuff is hard in math and easy in programming. Some stuff is easy in math and hard in programming.

You can do that just fine if you switch the GCode flavor to RepRap. But, we won't guarantee stability on the USB for the UM2.