yzorg

Yay! Finally my Machine works again. I dont think moving the machine from ground to table brought this effect.. (temperature) I now mounted an older V1 Nozzle, removed the white Insulator and voila... no further hardware changes. I took the fast print preset in cura.. (have to export that again to see what the difference to my profile was) i slowed the print down to 60% though. took 30mins to print. I also noticed when i want to print a gcode thats been generated to print a t 50mm/s i will have shifted Prints... If set to 70mm/s they pop out perfect. :shock:

I just changed back to a clean V1 nozzle and i can print again... but still got the problem. all other settings stayed same.. no retraction. Must be my V2 Nozzle is internally damaged or blocked somehow... lucky i didnt buy it extra. PS I noticed that the tread sealing tape that came with the Ultimakerkit didnt survive in the nozzle... it Backed out to a hard and brittle substance. maybe its this stuff that clogged my V2 nozzle.

Gosh i want one of those ultimakers that run 54h straight... Im getting thick hard-skin on my fingers, disassembling these hotends over and over. Using my V2 Nozzle, V3 Bolt and the Springfeeder Part. My problems are actually getting worse... Nothing helped so far. I noticed my Aluminum plate is getting very hot.. I start thinking my Nozzle is blocked by some hard debris that doesnt fit through. So i took it apart. While hot i placed a 3mm drillbit all the way in from the bowdenside. I let it cool down and pulled out the drillbit with all plasticsremains and stuff. Then i took some steelwire to push through from nozzle side. This went well. I tested pushing some filament by hand directly into the PEEK. there was quite some pressure but i had a good stream of glossy PLA coming out the Nozzle. I didnt notice the forming of a plug in the bowden or the white insulator but still cant print. So i gave it another try to get printing again. Reassembled.. First a good Perimeter and Loop was printed but as soon as the Bottom Infill started it got back to dribble just little PLA drops.. I rushed to forcepush the filament a bit but it would slip again as soon i let it go.

have the same problem.. good to have a thread to adress it. Strange is, first getting perfect bottom layer and all other much less output. A stringy mess. i even reinstalled all software and Firmware to make shure i didnt mess it up by changing values. I also find it comes either from to many retractions in short intervals or is temperature/feedrate related.. If printing quite slow for a longer period the hotzone climbs gradually and in combination with the retraction create these blobs instantly. What i try to fix it: -I hope to find a solution by raising the printing speed. my esteps were 865.888 (filament has less time to get soft) -I will try to create a coldzone directly above the Hotend. (Fan blowing between wood and Aluminium plate) -Make some more Filament tests and measurements.. and only buy from trusted and tested shops (my white PLA is very thin 2.56mm, my white ABS is insane 3.5mm) got by Alibaba.com

the filament path is clear and by hand the filament is easy to extrude.. i also noticed that changing that Value "Flow" on the Ulticontroller seems to have no effect. I tried to adjust there to find my maximum extrusion speed settings. nothing changes while printing. changing the speed works. after some seconds it will speed up or slow down.

I upgraded to newest Cura.. now it works and is fine.. takes some time.. but all calibrations are working now. i can print over USB

Wollt mich mal als Schweizer outen. Leb in Basel. Hab einen Ultimaker mit Controller. Erweitere gerade zu Dualstruder... hoffentlich gibts dazu bald noch ein update in Cura. Desweiteren ist ein schlauch-extruder für Silikon Patronen im Bau. (350ml) ->http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32968 Ich hoffe die Patronen ev. auch mit anderen Materialien befüllen zu können. zb Keramik mischungen.. Fals wer in der nähe mal meine Werkstatt besuchen will soll mich einfach anschreiben. MFG Yvo W.

ABS Problem with the Feeder Upgrade. Natural white ABS, 260°C. I now have the new springload feeder part, which i thought would reduce my problem of always skipping feed. But with it i cant print at all. it looks like thers not enough pressure.. (becaus i tried by raising from lowest pressure) the max. position of the ball bearing wheel is not enough. i experience a worse extrusion quality than ever before... Even with maximum sping pressure It runs only for about 1cm then extrusion gets thinner and thinner and stalls.

Same here. i also wanted to use RepG for manual purpose and maybe experimenting with my claystruder in Cura you can start the print by USB cable. In Normal mode you should be able to click on Print and get a Machine control window..

I see, and agree. maybe we could start a little contest on Deviantart.com im shure we get a superb output and dont have to work for it.

Hi there I got an issue with ABS.. thers this colour variation. My nozzle is clean and i print at 255-260° C with CURA, standard print, natural ABS on a cold acryl plate. see my pic..

no more suggestions?!?

A sliced standford bunny. or a sliced Marlin Fish.. in Cura-blue of course.. example:

I like a Hilbertcurve as applogo too. Needs some redesigning of course. Very Difficult to get eneough Detail in the small logo pics..

I can print perfectly from SD Card... I have also a problem when i want to use my machine over USB. I doesnt works... I can make the axles move and warm up the hotend but i cant start a Print from there. Nothing happens. When i push the button on the Ulticontroller it will start eventually. the First calibration Wizzard is not finishing its duty too. It stops at the Temperature tests..

I gave it another try with the Gcodish letter C. I just took some colours.. so their not the correct ones yet. Done in Cinema4D

I got you some screenshots..

i have the same smal blob issue on my ultimaker. what is suggested to change first?

I have some good news. Running on RepG0025, SF35 and 5G firmware. Yesterday late i could 3D print a nearly perfect and working whiste. built the second printer in under 8 hours.(had some help..) I was able to produce some handsome prints now sitting on my couch and printing with both machines simultanously. i hope to upgrade to most actual softwares as soon as i can though. thx for all the helping minds in this forum. greetings

Hi may i ask what setting u use in the tab Raft/Support? because when i turn support on the support just comes out completely solid.. looking nearly the same as the print. RepG0025 5G setup and i am using skeinforge 35. thx for any help on this.

I have the Replicator G 0034 working now. The Firmware on the machine as shown in the machineinfo: System Information ReplicatorG version: 0034 Java version: 1.6.0_31 Machine Profile Name: Ultimaker Sprinter/Marlin Driver Type: RepRap5D Name: Ultimaker Sprinter/Marlin Motherboard firmware version: Marlin v1.0 The lights turn Green in RepG34 wen i click "turn on" and the temp reading is there. The control panel acts as expected and i can change temperature. But i cant start the extrudermotor from the control panel even when target temps are reached. When i start the calibration print provided in the RepG34 everything starts runnings fine but the extruder is speeding like hell. I tried various things with the gcode but couldnt get it to work as desired. I have a standalone slic3r running now but i cant access its functions from within RepG0034 the log says: [23] Yes, I have a Realtime Control feature. [23] Supports RC [23] Beginning toolpath generation. [23] Could not run Slic3r. [23] Toolpath generation failed! i can make gcodes with the standalone slic3r though. but i dont have enough time left testing all its functions and reading trough thousands of posts and tutorials. I think il downgrade to 5G and Rep0025 witch i know how to operate. Any help is highly apreciated. sincerely Yvo W.

I definitely want to use CURA or Slic3r... but it seems that i cant manage to get Cura to run on my mac... All i get when i download the latest version is bunch of useless(to me) text documents.. looking like this below: I may be very nooob on this but if anyone can help i would be thankful. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- #!/usr/bin/python """ This page is in the table of contents. ==Overview== ===Introduction=== Cura is a GPL tool chain to forge a gcode skein for a model. Based on Skeinforge. The slicing code is the same as Skeinforge. But the UI has been revamped to be... sane. """ from __future__ import absolute_import import __init__ import sys import platform from optparse import OptionParser from util import profile from util import sliceRun def main(): parser = OptionParser(usage="usage: %prog [options] .stl") parser.add_option("-p", "--profile", action="store", type="string", dest="profile", help="Use these profile settings instead of loading current_profile.ini") parser.add_option("-r", "--print", action="store", type="string", dest="printfile", help="Open the printing interface, instead of the normal cura interface.") (options, args) = parser.parse_args() if options.profile != None: profile.loadGlobalProfileFromString(options.profile) if options.printfile != None: from gui import printWindow printWindow.startPrintInterface(options.printfile) return if len( args ) > 0: sliceRun.runSlice(args) else: from gui import mainWindow mainWindow.main() if __name__ == '__main__': main()

Thx for the reply sry i forgot to say i use Makerbot electronics in my custom setup. they have the thermocouple board inside the Extruderboard.. but i have a external one too. the themocouple is a type-K form MB store and all the components work actually together very good. just is this temp issue. im testing some experimental printer firmwares now. maybe i find a solution. i definitely need to find a electronic/hacking nerd whos way better than me.. I get back to you when i tried the things you told. if nothing works il order ultimaker electronics later...

dont worry i didnt heat longer than 30 sec. when i switch the red/yellow then i get the 1024° error.. so i assume i had it plugged in right i dont have a three wire connector between my thermocouple and the extruderboard. but i have one of those thermocouple amp boards (it has three outgoing connectors) but found no use for it because my Extruderboard should have an onboard solution for this. sadly i cant downgrade to thermistors i only get more errors

Hi guys i have a strange behaviour of my thermocouple. maybe someone has me a hint to get it right. With my setup i get a reading of 20°C roomtemperature shown in ReplicatorG. but.. when i heat up the nozzle the Temperature in ReplicatorG drops slowly to zero were it stays. Do i have the wrong thermocouple?!? when i plug it in the other way around it will produce the 1024°error. Thanks for any help on this greetings