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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. +1 The rotary fan on mine was loud as hell. I replaced it with a 120mm fan, that is placed directly underneath the drivers and blowing upwards. So far, none of them blew.
  2. And if I would want a spambot, I would print one...
  3. I got. And I am pretty sure, there are plenty other working ones around... :ugeek:
  4. Hi, That's what I was supposed to tell....an element with less than about 0.4mm strength on x/y, is skipped in slicing. At least that happened to me with some objects, can't tell how netfabb 4.9 is.
  5. I noticed, that netfabb tends to skip elements smaller than 0.4mm width. Didn't dig too deep into that, because, that's the nozzle size and did make sense.
  6. nope... you would need to do that somewhere else. But consider a pyramid or a cone... the topside of the cube could be a hard airprint, unless you use support. And if you use support... you are at the same point like before .
  7. In my experience, you will ever have tension due to the difference in cooling from the bottom, to the higher part. If you dont want to use a heated bed, to even out the cooling, the only option is to force the part to stay in shape by spreading out the surface the part sticks on. This will not reduce the tension, but it will reduce warp significantly. If you mill cetrain plastics, as acrylic for example, that hasn't tempered properly, then this tension warps the part like hell, when you take off a few millimeters from the surface. As Daid said, a raft would help... personally I dislike the
  8. Maybe Poser is what might help you. There is a trial available at http://poser.smithmicro.com/ Pricing is quite fair. Cheers, Micha
  9. Try the 10 by 0.2mm discs at the corners, they will hold the piece in place and will avoid that it warps off the tape. IMG_4489.MOV
  10. If its just the circles, I would lay them flat. Don't see a problem here. Regarding stringing, if it's all connected in some way, netfabb(beta) or skeinforge should managage to stay within the solid region... something to be tested, could happen, that the connection between the circles must be greater than 0.5mm. Can't tell, if you can ever achive a string-free printing. All I can say, it's hard to calibrate it to that point .
  11. 1. if you manage to get all overhangs within the coral structure out, then its just a matter of cleaning out 1gazillion strings from rapid movements, depending on how good the machine is calibrated. 2. worth a try, in fact i have bee surprised more than one time from the ultimaker airprint capabilities . 3. don't see a problem here. you print with 0.4mm nozzle, whats the diameter of the smalles line, or whats giving you the smalles possible radius. your circles should come out well. All it's a matter how much time you let the machine spend on it. if you put the layerheight to 0.08mm for in
  12. almost 150€ postage to Australia... ouch. 8€ within Germany. DHL is 40€ up to 5kg to Australia... PM me, if you want to spend that. But I would stand back from PLA45 in Australia... Starts to soften at 45°C :geek: .
  13. Did you try adding 10mm discs to the corner... maybe 0.2mm in height? It's enough, when the edge dives about a third into the disc. Helps me alot against warping and they are easy to be removed afterwards.
  14. 1. I made the hole bigger 2. Same here, taped and first print was a decent fan holder from thingiverse...
  15. Lol... I searched them like that as well .
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