peggyb
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3D Prints
Posts posted by peggyb
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more info and pictures here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18335-uneven-layers-although-i-print-at-1-mm-i-am-still-able-to-see-every-layerhelp-please?page=1
hope this helps..
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in Meshmixer: Analysis --> Inspector.
If there are defects shown with colored balls, you can click them according to color (look up the color scheme, it is like, pink are loose parts, red and blue are more substantial defects) or fix all with one button click.
Meshlab and Blender are great but much more complicated to learn because of the amount of possibilities.
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Both the bearings and the z-nut are behind the white cover. There are several posts about this issue on the forum, I ended up replacing the z-nut and bearings, but you can start by cleaning the bearings.
Like I said: if your bearings are good, the build plate lowers itself just on its own weight, there is no need to replace the z-nut.
If your z-nut is good, it will force the bearing to move the right amount, even if they grind.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20050-how-to-properly-clean-z-axis
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18394-sounds-like-theres-sand-on-the-z-screw
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Can you move your bed by hand up and down and feel irregularities or hear some 'grinding' noise from the bearings?
Can you also check the z-nut for play? Reach under the build plate at the back and try to push the build plate up, there should be no movement pushing the bed up..
There is an interaction in the two parts: when the z-nut has some play, the buil plate can get stuck, hang at some point, but if it has no play it will force the buil plate to move.
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can you share more information about what printer/slicer you use and the material settings like material, temp., speed, layer height...etc.?
What is the bottom part of the print? small or wide?
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check how much 'brim' is activated and if 'skirt' does something.
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Downloaded the 2.3 version and tried a dual print with PVA, just to see what happens..
The temperature for PVA says: 215 degrees... Thought this melted (according to the data sheet) around 160...?
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here is something to read: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21518-machinable-wax
I also used normal PLA, and the guy who does my (professional) casting said that for normal PLA he needs to fire the PLA higher then the MoldLay.
I guess they added the spruces with their own wax, the material from the tree, with heat, melting it to the tree.
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know your materials: speed, temp., retraction, combing, infill etc. for each material/color, even another color may act different. Check the layer view to see what the path of the nozzle is.
For large prints this maybe a tedious thing to do, but it helps to watch the printer and notice where it picks up material.
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the comment with the tweezers was a bit cynical.... meaning: undoable for long prints. I have done 40 hour prints with PET and there will be some of these spots. It is hard to predict where they will be, best is to know your materials before starting a bigger print and take them for granted. And when you take a look at the progress of the print once in a while (unless you're away the whole time) clean the outside of the nozzle when necessary. This is quite challenging with tweezers, the head is fast at movements, so pick the right time to do this, during infill is good, when you can predict how it moves..
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it is best to look at the pattern that the knurled bolt is making in your filament: the marks should be not to light, not to deep to transform the filament completely. If the filament is not moving towards the nozzle the problem might be more towards the printhead (ptfe, bowden, nozzle issues). Of coarse the connection of the bowden into your extruder must be tight, inspect if the clips with the metal teeth are OK.
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it is because these materials are more sticky (PET,nylon) than PLA. Loose extruded fragments are dragged externally along the nozzle and at some point get dropped somewhere. The only way to avoid it is to sit by the printer with tweezers and clean the nozzle tip when this happens or optimize your gcode to avoid these loose fragments (speed, temp., retraction, combing, etc)
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a while ago I tried the sugar method when there was no glue around, but somebody left his sugar for his coffee... So I remembered this post and used the sugar, with a PET print. It worked very well, compared to clean glass, the only disadvantage is that the glass plate became really sticky, like sticky, sticky and the bottom of the print took off the sugar layer and needed cleaning (sticky). But it worked...
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Did you check your cad file?
Look at the x-ray view in Cura if there are red sections (not good), or use the Netfabb repair (download or cloud) https://www.shapeways.com/..._meshlab_and_netfabb
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it looks like your model is 'inside out', the surface is facing the in the opposite direction.
Look at the x-ray view in Cura, or use the Netfabb repair (download or cloud) https://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/how_to_use_meshlab_and_netfabb
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did you solve this yet? did it come back on?
checked connections and cables? Because the unit is hanging on the side, when the printer has to be moved, I put it inside the printer on the bottom, and that can influence the connectors on the back.... Seen the garbled text also, but after a restart always went back to normal..
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the thing that went wrong in your case was the second layer after the raft, which in this case might be replaced by a brim instead (rafts are not used very often). The problems are the round beams with a rim around, the rim touching the build plate and the beams floating. Did you check the layers view to see if there was any material underneath the beams?
What also helps in these first layers is to go slower until the base is there, then go to normal speed.
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the thing is: when the first layer is there, even when it is a bit off, the rest will follow in paralel of the first.
As for safety you can tape the brim to the glass, especially in the sharp corners (don't push to hard on the tape or you will lower the bed a bit).
Always watch the first layer and turn the bed screws on the fly when needed, you can even manipulate the bed with you hands, just to push from underneath or on top at the difficult spots.
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prima plan!
heb je nog een carpool plaatsje over van de RAI naar Zandvoort?
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for casting I use MoldLay, prints at 180 temp., sticks on (cold) blue tape
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3D masterclass
Bigger printing door Joris van Tubergen – Rooie Joris – op 25 of 26 juni op FabCity Amsterdam
De stukken kunnen de hele inhoud van de FDM printer vullen.
Hoe doe ik dat? Hoe pas ik mijn instellingen aan in de slicer?
Is het anders printen met rPET filament?
Kom kijken, leren en vooral zelf doen met Joris Tubergen en Peggy Bannenberg. Beiden zijn ze al sinds 2008 bezig met 3D printen en willen hun kennis en ervaring met je delen. Je kunt met of zonder printer komen op 25 of 26 juni. Op de unieke locatie van FabCity in Amsterdam.
De kosten van de masterclass zijn € 25,- euro voor de hele dag.
Speciaal voor deze dag een rol filament van Refil te koop voor € 20,- (winkelwaarde €36,-)
Neem vooral je printer mee. Mocht vervoer van de printer een probleem zijn: binnen Amsterdam kan je printer opgehaald worden. Wil je met printer opgehaald worden bij het station: dat kan ook.
Op zondag is het gratis parkeren in de woonwijk.
Op het terrein kan op eigen kosten een lunch aangeschaft worden of voor € 5,- bij ons besteld worden. (De lunch wordt verzorgd door Gascoland, gekookt op bio-gas)
De masterclass zal zowel in het Nederlands als in het Engels zijn.
Inhoud van de masterclass
3D printer Plastic MadonnaDe masterclass begint met het printen van grote blokken voor het beeld. Waar let je op bij de instellingen van je slicer? Kun je slim de instellingen zo aanpassen dat de tijd verkort wordt? En hoe kun je nog meer tijd verkorten door verschillende gcode profielen te combineren?
Eén van de printers zal een Z-unlimited van Joris zijn. Hiermee kan je een print veel groter maken: nl. van 20 x 20 x 120 cm.
Het rPET krimpt, net zoals eigenlijk alle kunststoffen. Hierdoor is de kans op kromtrekken groot: welke handige oplossingen zijn daarvoor? Na 8 uur printen wil je bij een extrusie-stop niet alles weggooien: hoe herstart of resume je de print?
Zie je machine als een stuk gereedschap. Je kunt er van alles aan aanpassen. Durf je machine aan te raken tijdens het printen. Durf te falen: van mislukking of minder geslaagde prints leer je het meest. Voor- en nadelen van grote nozzles, koeling van het materiaal en allerlei vormen van nabewerking komen aan de orde. Denk aan lassen, smelten, repareren, verbinden en inserts.
25 of 26 juni van 10.00-17.00 uur
FabCity, Kop van Java-Eiland, Amsterdam
aanmelden via de website
FabCity is een tijdelijke nederzetting op de Kop van Java-Eiland met diverse interessante bedrijven die hun innovatieve ideeën laten zien, zoals een zandsteen printer die wandpanelen voor BAM/Landscape House gaat printen, en een metaal printer van MX3D die een brug gaat printen in Amsterdam.
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it looks in the picture that this is printed in bits and pieces and glued together afterwards (which is the best way to get nice floors and ceilings anyway..) together with some lasercut acrylic.
The thing to be aware of is the thinnest walls you can print, as with scaling down a model there is still enough material to print..
For printing buildings you must think smart and know your limits.
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looks like a part of the old feeder... http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/39-feeder-disassembly
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really to bad!
but this is a long trip for you.... anything 3d printing related??
Ultimaker SLA Line
in Coffee corner
Posted
Nooo, I want SLS....
and there is a huge open market for this, not many companies around yet...