peggyb
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Posts posted by peggyb
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when you have the selection tool active, there is a submenu on your left. The crease angle thres is a slider to set the degree angle between the triangels (hit W to see the triangles). This means that by default the slider is 0 and it selects everything, When set to 45 the selection stops at this angle and leaves the triangles alone across the 45 degree border.
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oder schau mal hier:http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted
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the steppers drivers on the board are getting too hot and loose steps. Normally if the fan doesn't work at all it turns up in the first or second layer already.
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the fan also collects a lot of dust, cleaning might help a bit, maybe?
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in Meshmixer you could select the inner surface and delete it. In the selection section you can set a degree angle where the selection stops (crease angle thres). Select a section on top of you vase and hit F (erase and fill). Or delete the inside and use Analysis -> Inspector.
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Lucky me
I bought a dual extruder upgrade for my UMO a couple of years ago and never installed it, so all the parts should be there... (used some items for spare, always handy to have them around)
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it could have something to do with the temperature of the electronics board. Is the fan running underneath at your electronics?
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Can you check if the little black circle wheel inside the feeder is turning smoothly?
I have seen a case where it didn't and it had similar symptoms.
And if you remove the filament does it show an irregularity in the filament where it holds (like this picture)
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price in this link is EUR 2.535,67....
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Do you mean this is all happening in the first layer?
Did you look at the layer view in Cura if everything is correct?
Can you make a picture of your print?
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no, the numbers are the 'bounding box', like drawing a square around your model, and your model is the diagonal. Look at the z number changing.
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are you referring to the measurements of the x - y -z? (scale is still at 1.0)
because these measurements are the 'bounding box' of your model, and not the actual length of your model. Try to rotate your model in this position so the length of the model is in the x direction and see what the size is.. It will grey out but will show if your model is scaled or not..
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I tried this a couple of years ago when the Taulmann nylon was out. following the instructions of RichRap with dye and also with a marker. With a marker it was so faint, you could hardly see it. RichRap uses 1.75 filament, which makes a lot of difference with 2.85 because the color does not get to the core of the filament.
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is this the Ultimaker TPU95A filament?
When I take a look at the material profile settings in Cura 2.3, the temp. is set to 260 and the build plate at 110, and fan speed at 0.
Material flow 145%?? could also be the problem, pushing too much material too cold.
Another brand could have different settings, but like neotko stated, under extrusion is mostly solved by higher temp.
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Clockwise screws, moving bed away from nozzle. Counterclock unscrews moving bed closer to nozzle.
depends on how you look at them...
if you stand before the printer looking to the bed it feels like clockwise, but from the screw point of view, which is upside down under the bed it is counterclockwise...
Try the cover, usually I get these hairs when there is a draft, cold air around.
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I need to print intricate prints using the most of the print area
Keep in mind what the usable print area is (other than advertised) so you're not disappointed afterwards:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22609-print-requiring-build-space-of-22x22x20-cm
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/25807-cura-build-volume-for-ultimaker-3
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@yellowshark, I am using 'one at a time' a lot also. And I think it works almost the same now as 15.4, except still missing the multiple copies.
Did you try overlapping the 'fan shadows'? You can overlap the shadow of object 1 to the thin skirt shadow of object 2.
The gantry warning is correct, you will notice that your build volume is lower now, but it would make more sense if it showed up with object higher then the gantry, because lower objects aren't the problem.
@gr5, I am using 2.3.1 (as in the title) with my Um2Go, and suspected it has something to do with the retraction gcode, and was hoping somebody else could check if the gcode generation is to blame (or the user..) @yellowshark, does this happen to you as well?
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can this be solved in the gcode? @nallath?
I know this now, will probably forget it a couple of times, and it will result in a lot of number 1 items and too little number 2 because you have to start over again..
And everybody else who does not realize this will have the same problem.
You want to start every print well primed and using an overkill of skirt seems stupid to me..
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(UM2Go) using one at a time, when the second object starts, it looks like there is no material in de nozzle, due to a retraction before switching objects?
The second object fails because the first layer gets no material. Can someone confirm this?
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brim is to prevent the curling up of the edges, and this depends on your model, material and settings. Sharp corners with thick walls and solid inside tend to curl up because of cooling/shrinking of the material. If your model allows it you can make circular holes near the corners, or make the corners round (fillet/chamfer) also helps.
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pfff, glad you found the issue, but like you said, you get to know your printer better..
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By default, under the tab' build plate adhesion' (advanced) there is a raft/brim/skirt active, depending on the chosen material.
Playing with these makes the difference, brim line count can be reduced. In the 'view mode'->'layers' you can see what happens on the first layer when you change stuff.
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Here is a lot of visual information that might help you:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted
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Did you move the bed with the knob all the way down when this happened?
Turning of the machine lets you move the bed by hand, grab it close the rods. Can you move it manually up and down?
When reassembling the bearings and z-nut, you could leaf the screws loose a bit, moving the assembly up and down a few times, and gradually tightening everything.
general forum feedback
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
more and more pages don't end up at the right spot. Especially the long reads..