peggyb
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Posts posted by peggyb
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That sounds like you have a 'pause at z' activated. Are you using Cura 15.04 or 2.1?
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das ist wahrscheinlich die Bed kalibrierung. Fass mal die Z Achse fest wenn es wieder da ist ob die in kleine Stufen bewegt.
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(Ich kann Deutsch lesen, aber schreiben ist schwierig) Gefunden in die Beschreibung vom Einbau Heat Bed:
Notice: If you are using the Ultimaker Heated Bed upgrade with the dual extrusion kit. You have to use the new powersupply for heating the Bed, and the old powersupply for the hotends. if you don’t use both powersupplys the machine might shut down because of lack of power.
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could it be that the problem here is that the power brick can't heat two printheads and a heated bed? When using double extrusion you would have to set the bed to 0.
Give it a try if this makes a difference...
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for the fiber filled filaments, go for the 0.6 nozzle with the Olsson block and the settings you already have. Did they mention a flow of 105%?
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more info is welcome indeed,
sounds like the nozzle is open but no material is forwarded.
A good routine with a UMO is to heat up manually (controller) then turn the feeder wheel in the back until the material comes out and then start the print.
Is the feeder in the back closed in the right way?
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oder vergrößern bis die gelben Punkten weg sind und nur roten Linien zu sehen sind.den Nozzle Durchmesser verkleinern -
can you measure your filament with a caliper?
the package says: 3.00 mm max., and mine measures 2.8 mm, so you are under extruding if you fill in 3.00 mm.
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is it about inches en millimeters? Use the scale function to set it right
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try Mesmixer for this, very good for organic models. There are a lot of tutorials around, for the dual models look here:
Looks real easy..
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don't cut anything (yet)!
do you have a heat gun - hairdryer - soldering iron?
You can use these to heat the excess pla from the outside. Heat the nozzle to 150 or so to get some play/movement on the inside of the blob. Be gentle around the wires, you can save them.. Slowly peel away as many as you can. Succes!
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this looks like you have a raft enabled. Tab 'Build Plate Adhesion' there is the choice of skirt-brim-raft.
And your box is very small, note that the nozzle is 0.4 mm and needs to go around your model. What printer do you have? Can you use a 0.25 nozzle?
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Hear good things about this: http://e3d-online.com/Scaffold-Support-Material
Did not try it personally (yet)
@DidierKlein could tell you more?
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did you try to rotate the glass plate 180 degrees? or flip it over?
If it it still in the back then it is your aluminum bed, if the problem moves to another area it is probably the glass.
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could it be that he means the time that the steppers of the bed are blocked?
At least that is something that bothers me....
If you do something with the model, the bed suddenly moves down (if your bearings are real smooth..) and there is no way to continue at the right spot.
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can you look further under Post Processing -> modify gcode ->........
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Hallo Hugo,
je kunt ook zonder printer met Cura spelen en zien wat er gegenereerd wordt. Kijk dan voornamelijk naar de layer view (linkerkant scherm, oogje-view mode) Met de slider kun je door het model heen en kijken wat er per laag gebeurt. Via Help kom je bij de online manuals die alle mogelijkheden uitleggen (heel veel).
Misschien kun je bij een Fablab of persoon in de buurt (3dHubs) ook de prints maken en kijken of het doet wat je er van verwacht.
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You can also try to let Meshmixer generate the supports for you (look for tutorials)
The generated supports can be partially deleted or added to your liking. When satisfied, export the whole thing and load into Cura to print.
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is that going to be the exactly extruded length or what Cura estimated it to be?
So what if you cancelled a big print is the whole size in the calculation, or the used length?
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I must say that the Zortrax prints abs really good, but their whole system is very closed. Using other parties filament looses your warranty..
Software is closed, very little to adjust.
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no, I don't think so,
You can always check when exporting it and import it into Cura and see if there is something in that area.
ps: just checked it: it is ok.
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did you try the 0.25 nozzle for this?
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with these temperatures cooling is always a good place to start.
Did you check your coupler also? How many printing hours do you have with this coupler? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion
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for the z distance I usually use the distance of one layer, so when you are printing in 0.1 layers, do a 0.1 distance. Than there is one layer not printed making it a weaker spot.
Ultimaker 3 First Impressions
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
can you move the rod back to the left? The rods can be clicked in and out of the white blocks (do they have cracks?) to remove the whole printhead from the rods. From the UM2 instructions they said to put the x-rod back with a fingernail distance from the left panel, so it can hit the endstop.