peggyb
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Posts posted by peggyb
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No, I just tried Moldlay and it works. It prints good and the casts come out nice, so why try others... I don't cast myself, but let a professional do it, it takes good equipment to cast a detailled print (with vacuum conditions) and he doesn't have a problem with it. Casting does work with normal PLA as well, but the temperature to burn the PLA must be higher.
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Moldlay needs 270 degrees to melt out.
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these models are usually not that good, look at the xray view to detect problems (red).
Most of the time the windows and other thin parts are modelled as surfaces and are not printed (no solids), but they show up in Cura. Look at the layer view in Cura to compare your printed messy parts.
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Moldlay works very well
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one thing you can try is to rotate the object 90 degrees. What you are seeing has to do with the fans and cooling and because the nozzle is closer the left fan, cooling the object is uneven. Look what area needs the most cooling and place that towards the left fan.
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For what you are doing: go for a resin printer. More detail and capable of small items.
It would take a lot of trial and error (and frustration) to get it right on any fdm printer.
Nozzle diametre and plastic strings and blobs will always mess up, even the UM3 is not good at thin vertical structures...
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Someone posted about Meshmixer 2 years ago and I have really fallen behind on where it is, how to use it and such. Didn't it get bought out?
I do like and use Meshmixer a lot... it is still there and improving every time.. Good video with useful info:
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it is: select all -> right click -> merge models and then center.
If you want to have different materials/colors to the parts, use the 'per model settings', left on your screen.
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then tick the 'union overlapping volumes', if that doesn't help, try the others one by one.
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can you check in the view mode (left on your screen, eye) the x-ray, to see if there is something in your CAD model invalid.
second you can check what settings are enbled/disabled in the Mesh fixes (preferences-settings)
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Bad warping can lift of the tape from the bed. Next time make the tape longer and fold it over the edge. A strong warp can still lift it but not that much as you have now.
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Netfabb and Meshmixer can do what you want, both free.
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check if all your cables on top of the print head are secure: the thin ones going into the green block and the white connectors. Sometimes they can get a bit loose because of the motion. And separate the fan wires as much as possible from the rest.
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"Makerbot was acquired by Stratasys in June 2013".... that is a while ago...
"In September 2014, 3D Systems acquired the Belgian company LayerWise."
"In January 2015, 3D Systems acquired the 3D printer manufacturer botObjects, the first company to commercialize a printer using the fused deposition modeling technique." source Wikipedia.
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if you make the wall line count (or wall thickness) a high number, like 99, do you seethe same? If so, there is still something inside your model that doesn't belong there.
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You can find it in 'Preferences' - 'Materials', but the cost calculator is greyed out....
Would be interesting to hear why or how this can be activated?
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ga naar 'preferences' -> 'Materials'
daar zie je een lijst met materialen, kies bij de bovenste set (Generic) je materiaal uit en klik 'Activate'.
Moest ook even zoeken...
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The 'Line With' setting does the same as nozzle size.
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in Cura 2 you can set your bottom/top routine to concentric. If the model needs to be solid, set the bottom/top thickness to 99 or so, and set your wall count to 1.
Setting the infill to concentric, 100%, does the same..
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check all the cables on top of the printhead: the two very thin wires entering the green block and the white connectors, fiddle them a bit around and see if something changes on the temperature reading. Also move the wires of the fan away from the other wires.
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another option might be, if your model is suitable for this, to rotate your text in the z direction. In the layer height you have more resolution, up to 0.06 mm. If not possible, go for the suggestion neotko mentions: use Cura 2.3 and set the line with smaller than the nozzle actually is.
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the David is not really a handheld scanner, it needs a steady setup with camera/beamer, the David is better on a tripod and the object revolving.
You could try a 3DSense/Structure (Occipital)/or something else handheld.
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that must be a really hard task to find a printer that does everything...
I think you will have to accept that each printer has its limits and that they each have their own specialities and live perfectly next to each other. Depending on your needs of size, material and detail you choose your machine. The Ultimaker sits in the middle of the range, it can do a lot but also has its limits.
Form2: max. size - 145 × 145 × 175 mm (your model is positioned diagonally most of the time, support takes a lot of space), laserpoint 140 micron, layer height 25 micron, limited and very expensive materials, not very good at flat surfaces, support scars.
UM3: max. size 215 x 215 x300 mm (extended), nozzle 400 micron (for now), layer height 20 micron, duo-materials, open to a lot of materials-different prices, capable of complex shapes with PVA support, top/bottom layer lines more visible than wall lines
In the photo:
left: UM2Go, MoldLay (wax like) 100 micron layers, 1 hour
right: Form2, Black resin, 25 micron, 2,5 hours
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Wow, they didn't change that in 2.4? That is really disappointing.....
To help you in the meantime you can set the skirt lines to a higher number and hope they are going to fix this soon.... I really miss this too!
Problem slicing object larger than 180mmx180mm
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
here is some more info on the subject:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23300-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area?page=1#unread