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There at least 2 versions of the S5 printer. If you have the oldest type with the robot on the side panels of the printer, you have an S5R1 please contact your reseller as there are deadly voltages easily accessed once you remove the bottom cover. If you have an S5 with a big "U" on the side then you have an S5R2. Here are instructions for the firmware recovery procedure: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1877434822572 click on the big blue button that mentions "S5R2".

UM3 should last at least another 10 years. Probably longer. If you explain the failure, the fix might simply be getting a new power brick.

Can you explain in more detail what you mean by "it cuts off"? Does it stop printing and act like everything is fine and tell you to remove the print? Does it reboot? Does it go black? Does it report an error? Does it home the print head? Does it leave the nozzle on the print (and melt the print a bit)?

You should probably click the 9 dots in the upper right of this web page, then select "support", then near the top click "submit a request". Refer them to this topic. Some people worry there is a fee for support - but there is no fee for just talking regardless of warranty.

Please read the post by mariMakes in this post here. If that post doesn't help you figure it out, try contacting here and pointing out your topic to here so she can read the log file.

Maybe you could show a photo of the "ugly artefacts"

Either I'm missing something, or @zungara is missing something. I don't see the problem. In the one example with the graph there just wasn't very many seconds for the left core to cool down. Sure maybe in layer 75 it will have time to cool all the way so why not show that layer? The goal isn't to wait for it to cool down all the way - the goal is that while the other nozzle is printing, we should turn off heat to the idle nozzle as long as we can, yet still get back up to temperature again before it turns into the active nozzle. Maybe I'm not being clear? It sounds like you really want the printer to sit idle for a few minutes doing nothing such that the "inactive" nozzle can cool all the way to the standby temperature? Or are you complaining that the "goal" (idle) temperture is too low? What does it matter if it can't cool fast enough anyway? Either way it turns off all power to the idle nozzle until the nozzle is about to be needed again or until it reaches the idle temperature.

In the graph I think it just doesn't have enough time to cool. The green graph gets down to the correct temperature because it has more time to do so while the other nozzle is printing.

Please post the project file according to Greg's instructions above.

I split you off anyway into a new topic. The other person probably didn't have ubuntu. I have ubuntu 22 and it works fine. Did you try both versions of cura "modern" and regular appImage? It definitely matters. I have been using "modern". Please post the log file here. The log file I believe is in this path: ~/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log I think I'll avoid ubuntu 23 for a while!!

I split this into a new topic. This is a common problem on UM2/UM3. The glass is tempered and the process results in glass that is thicker in the middle. Like a hill. Add that to the fact that we level at the 3 leveling screws so leveling is perfect in those 3 spots - this results in low spots in the 2 rear corners because we have tilted the rear of the glass down and front of the glass up (so the two front "low" corners are now perfect). This results in bad adhesion because of all the tricks (raft, brim, rounded corners, glue, heat, squish), squishing the filament into the plate affects/increases adhesion the most. The glass will bend back up with very little force - just a few ounces. One solution is to bend hard the aluminum plate underneath the glass up in the corners. This worked great for me but then I realized that the underside of the aluminum plate has the heater spread evenly everywhere and I could have damaged it! But it's too late - problem fixed for me. I was lucky. 🙂 Another trick is to put a shim - maybe a dime - under the glass in the corners. I'm not sure what will hold down the bed in the middle though? But it seems to work for many people. Folded paper might work as well. You only need to raise things about .2mm typically. The best trick is to avoid those 2 corners (which you can't do with some large prints).

So what was the cause?

Well you have to do factory reset *after* you update the firmware. It's the firmware change that messes up the settings (if you downgrade or move to a side version like tinker marlin).

So it seems the solution was a "factory reset". More details 4 posts up.

by the way I hope you wrote down how many hours your printer has been used. It's possible that particular data is not erased on a factory reset - not 100% certain.

You can email tech support with the serial number and they can tell you who the reseller is and when it was built. Support is free as long as they don't have to send you any parts. on top right of this page click the nine dots, then "support" then on the top of the screen "submit a request". Your excuse for mailing them can be "do I have the newer feeder" or something like that.

The temp is chosen so that it is not too hot and not too cold. If too hot it comes out too easily and most of the molten plastic stays in the nozzle. If too cold you can't get it out (although some have said you can twist the filament even at room temperature - I've not really tried that).

This is for polycarbonate, right? PLA is around 90-100C but I don't know about PC. I assume PC is much hotter but I don't know.

20th try? How hard can it be. If it's too cold you can't pull it out. If it's too hot it comes out too easy. Pull very hard. Harder than enough force to lift the printer off the table.

@rockerito91, there is one cheaper solution - you can get a PCB for the UM2 through Alibaba. It will be a different chinese made board and might not work and may take 4 weeks to arrive but it will be probably 5X cheaper. The PCB is open source so it's easy for someone to download the PCB files and order/make their own. The harder part is getting the correct parts and soldering them in the right places.

Most versions of Marlin do not let you switch to E2 in the firmware. Possibly the TinkerGnome version of Marlin does but most people don't install that. I love that version myself. Anyway @rockerito91 has been building Marlin himself and apparently has found how to edit pins.h which lets you change any axis to use any pins which makes it pretty trivial to switch (in this case) the Z axis to drive out to the E2 driver. @rockerito91 has even replaced the arduino chip so he seems pretty competent in things firmware and hardware. More than me!

The retraction is set on the actual printer. The default I think is 4mm as Slashee suggests. Note that you DO NOT have a "plus" so if you have the "plus" firmware that could be your entire problem and no need to read further until you fix the firmware. reset to factory defaults Hmm. So now I'm thinking the firmware normally retracts an extra amount at the very end of the print. I forgot about that. Like 20mm normally. On purpose. And it's not in the gcode it does it automatically. So now I'm thinking the retraction is part of the firmware (like it's supposed to retract 20mm but your version is extruding 20mm or something) and now that makes me realize something. There is a special area of memory on the arduino chip. There is the ram, there is the eeprom that stores the firmware and there is this 3rd area that is basically another eeprom. Marlin (the firmware on UM2 printers) stores a bunch of things in here like leveling Z height, how tall the printer is (um2go, um2, um2ext have different values), and about 200 other parameters (where to move to prime the nozzle, a list of known filament types and what temp and things to print them at, what fan speed). One of those parameters might be the "retract at end of print job amount". It probably unretracts the same amount right at the start of printing before it primes. Maybe. Anyway - this area can be corrupted when you change firmwares. There is a data version number (similar to a firmware version) and anytime someone added or changed the data that goes in this special location, they would increment the firmware version. And there is a pretty big chunk of code that when you boot after a new firmware install, it looks at the version number and automatically moves all the data as needed and fills in default values as needed to the latest version. That chunk of code of course can only understand older firmware. It's impossible for older firmware to know the future and know how to translate the other direction. If anyone *ever* downgraded the firmware, what happens is it can get wild values in there. The value for where to prime might get stored in the location for final retraction and what should be 20 is now 200. The fix is to do: RESET TO FACTORY DEFAULTS Something like that - it's somewhere in the menu system on the printer. It's annoying because now it thinks it is a brand new printer and you have to level it again and you use all your odometer-like counters. Before you do this write down how many hours the printer has been printing and any other information like that! option 3: switch to marlin flavor gcode Another thing to try is to switch to Marlin flavor gcode. The um2 has it's own special flavor of gcode. For example the G10, G11 commands are unusual in Marlin (but part of the standard) and many printers don't support that so Cura can output the "E-4" like command for retraction that slashee suggests by changing one thing in Cura. It's in the machine settings. Without looking right now - go to PREPARE mode on screen and towards top left click on your printer and then look for machine settings and in there you have a few options for gcode flavor. If it's on UM2 flavor switch to marlin I think? Just try one of the other options. I don't recommend this route as personally I prefer controlling fan speed, temperature, etc on the printer. I have multiple UM2 printers and they each have different temps for the bed temp but with um2 flavor gcode I can print the same job on each printer. When you change the flavor you will suddenly see about 20 new parameters appear in cura which control nozzle temp, bed temp, fan speed, filament diameter, retraction distance, and more.

I don't know but if the temp is too low you can't get the filament out of the nozzle. And if the temp is too high it comes out too easily. So just start experimenting. When you get close you crank the heat and pull hard at the same time and remember what temp it was at when you finally get it out. Then you will know it's somewhere near that temp (a bit lower). Keep experimenting. By the 3rd time you try it you'll probably know the proper temp.

Or if the 24V was somehow plugged in backwards. It shouldn't be possible but maybe if you shove the plug hard enough. Yeah that seems more likely than the over voltage scenario.

e2 stepper also dead? Something very weird here. That driver shouldn't have ever been used so it should be fine. Okay - I can imagine if the 24V went to 50V, that could destroy all 5 stepper drivers simulataneously. It would only have to be 50V for a few seconds.