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Did you ever have an issue with a backwards moving feeder?

Someone said that if you forget to upgrade the firmware after you do the "plus" upgrade, the feeder will rotate backwards.

Yeah I think we found the problem. I'm not 100% sure. So hook up a USB cable from your computer to your printer and in Cura tell it to update the firmware. You should see things happening on this display in the photo above. I think maybe it goes black. During the update I think there is a progress bar. It's been many years but I think it takes somewhere between 20 seconds and 100 seconds to update the firmware. https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337917778

CC 0.6 works fine with any material. Make sure "line width" is set to 0.6 in the profiles (it should be). Worst case you can use an AA 0.4 profile, change line width to 0.6 (change nothing else) and when it complains that you have the wrong core just click "ignore".

Nope. Not the stl. The project file. Please reread my posts. Well the one that starts out with "This looks". I'm thinking maybe you updated the firmware to the wrong version. Did you check on the printer like I suggested? What is the firmware version as shown on the printer?

Write to sales@3dsolex.com. Tell them you are in Turkey. They have these parts. They are the 2 most expensive parts on the core. Roughly 20 euros each. Are you sure the heater is broken also? The heater is tougher than the sensor. The heater should be around 25W so around 24 ohms (power=24*24/resistance). The sensor is much more delicate. It should be around 109 ohms at room temperature. Solder can not be used to make these parts because solder melts at a temperature below printing temperatures. I forget the diameters but the are integral amounts of mm. For example 3mm and 4mm? Not 3.1mm or 2.9mm. No fractions.

These nozzles are the wrong length. The nozzle on the printcore looks short but it actually passes through the heater block and up into the steel nut attached to the steel part. Their volcano nozzles are a few mm too long and the other nozzles are much too short. You can get printcores from 3dsolex and they have a diamond nozzle. And ruby nozzles. And steel. And other options. The nice thing about 3dsolex printcores is that once you have one, the nozzles are much cheaper and easy to change out between prints. I used to sell 3dsolex printcores so I may be biased. However I don't think diamond will help you unless you print hundreds of spools of carbonfill or glowfill. The ruby nozzles work just fine with abrasive filaments. I think the "diamond" marketing is just a bunch of snake oil but I've never tried one. I made a video about taking apart ultimaker print cores. Look how long the nozzle is! https://youtu.be/Ln_tMz8Dwd0?si=znD-75kXmU0uRG3p

No need to dry PLA. I have 5 year old PLA that prints fine. PVA and Nylon however get "ruined" just be leaving out in the open for a day. Do you have this issue with other types of PLA?

Looking at the image - I'm thinking maybe this is overextrusion. I'm thinking maybe your extruder is extruding at 2X. Did you change the firmware or feeder stepper recently? Please check that your firmware and hardware match. The 2+ has a white feeder. The 2 has a black feeder. The feeder speeds are different by I think 2X (the steps/mm setting). Check the firmware by going through the menus and somewhere in there you can see the version. See if it has a "+" or "plus" in the firmware version. Maybe photograph the feeder for me so I can see which feeder you have.

Did you check the "fuzzy skin"?

Also what version of Cura did you use? 5.4 has some bugs related to the skin (but this doesn't look like the bug) so I want to make sure I'm testing on the same version of cura.

That's not the project file. Could you post the project file?

Oh!! I've never seen that before. It works!

The "drop" down model feature is not in the cura settings - it's under menu "Preferences" "configure cura" and it's one of the checkboxes. Once you've done that you can click on the part, click on the move tool, and type in any value for the Z offset.

The feeder stepper is probably fine but the feeder internal gears and such could indeed have an issue. The feeder stepper driver could also be overheating (never heard of this being a problem on an S3 though - it was a problem on some Ultimaker 2's if it was in a hot room). The first 1-2 layers are printed typically a lot slower and also with the fan is off and each layer the fan speeds up a little more. And if I remember correct, each layer goes a little faster for the first 5mm (I could be wrong on this). So it's not unusual for failures to occur as the printer speeds up (and the nozzle cools down).

I can actually think of about 4 different ways this could happen so if you could just post the project file...

This looks a LOT Like underextrusion on the shell but it looks fine on the top layer. Which is very contradictory. Maybe your top layer speed is much slower than your skin speed. Please post the project file. So go to menu "file" "save project as" and post the resulting file here please. It will contain your model, settings, machine settings, and so on.

In settings, put "fuzz" in the search as shown below and make sure "fuzzy skin" is not checked.

So I went back and looked at this. The red letters are exactly 0.1mm thick. It's just a single layer. And cura was set to have initial layer height 0.1. I'd print 3 clips at a time where each red text was different. After the red layer is printed and the first print "finished" I would clean things up with an exacto if there were strings. Sometimes even pulling off the red skirt. OFTEN I would deem the initial red print a failure and start over - losing maybe 2 minutes as the first print is about 2 minutes. Then I'd print the same gcode file on top which had 3 white clips spaced exactly 40mm apart to line up with the red letters. It was a separate print and always had a flat bottom. The white clips were sliced with a 0.3mm bottom layer. The most important things to understand: 1) red letters 0.1mm thick - some colors fade a bit since this is so thin so try different filaments 2) White print bottom layer 0.3mm thick in cura. 3) White model does not have anything subtracted. That's why in this picture below the white diagonal lines are continuous. THIS IS EASY TO MISS. LOOK AGAIN. Click on the image. Which layer of the white print is it printing? How do you know? Really - how do you know this is the bottom layer? How do you know that I didn't subtract the red text from it? The other details are easy to figure out e.g. maybe keep the skirts away from each other. Make sure retraction is enabled on the bottom layer (not default I think). Don't let the bed cool much between first and second print. Purge the filament well. Possibly check "use thin walls" for red print. Use Arial or other sans serif font if letters are quite thin. I think I used a Gothic font for the larger letters. Maybe play with line thickness for the letters. A 0.4 nozzle can do 0.3 line width just fine it that helps the letters look better.

Go back to the first post on the first page of this thread. I added a corrected link.

That looks like underextrusion. I've seen underextrusion look like that thousands of times but the picture is quite small so I could be wrong (e.g. there is a feature in cura to make the skin look similar to that but I don't think that's what I'm seeing). If you could post a larger picture it would help. There are dozens of causes of underextrusion on a UM2. Here are some of them. If you provide more information, we can provide more help: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/11478-extrusion-problem/?do=findComment&comment=124816

Is this a delta printer? It sounds like (0,0) is in the center of the printer and that usually only happens on delta printers.

I strongly advise you don't wait 20 hours but instead do a test print that takes maybe 20 minutes. You can print super fast as well because underextrusion doesn't matter much for test prints.

After briefly looking through the images, I'm not sure if this behavior is intended or not. I think maybe it is. Anyway it's okay either way as there are employees that do triage. So really the best thing to do is to log this on github. To do so, go here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues You must have a github account (they are free) and then click "New Issue". You will be guided. Maybe include the best photos from above. Maybe link to this thread but it's long and gets off topic so I'd summarize with images once again. If you could create a drastically simpler model that shows the problem that would be good for everyone involved.

I'd call your reseller or contact UM directly for support. At the top of this page on the right click the 9 dots icon, then click "support". Then near the top click "submit a request". Alternatively you could look over this guides: https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/6426059583899-Clearing-the-Mergers If you follow those steps and then examine the filament detector carefully you might notice something e.g. a wire fell off. But really, contact support. They know this stuff really well and I don't have a MS so I have no clue. Even if you are out of warranty, support is free. It's only if you need parts and also out of warranty that you will have to pay for something.