gr5

Unmarked. Try again. Personally it seems like the person who marked the solution should be able to undo their own work.

You might not like this answer or you may love it - I think a workaround would likely be to set the infill to 99%.

I'm glad you figured it out. I was about to say "you have to sign out of cura - not sign out of the website" but then you figured it out.

I love this. I looked at your spreadsheet. I have a problem with it as it's "access only" so I can't change the PLA Diameter to 2.85mm (which is what Ultimaker uses). And ideally the radius and width would default to Ultimaker spool dimensions. I also love how you show your assumptions on the spreadsheet itself (but not in the image above). I moved this out of the ultimaker printer area and into "3rd party...". Is there a way you can allow people to edit the 3 yellow blocks only? Or create this as a javascript web page? But I do love this and hope to be able to use it some day.

What print core do you have selected? This sounds like possibly a normal thing if you are using the AA 0.25 core (although I suspect that is not the case here).

It's worth it for sure to invest in a 20 euro teflon spacer if you haven't changed that out in the last 4 years.

I have never messed with material profiles, but can't you just select "generic pla"? That's what I typically do. Or I'll even select "ultimaker pla" even if it isn't and either tell the printer that it's an ultimaker pla that was loaded or I'll hit the ignore button when it says the 2 materials don't quite match exactly. Anyway, Slashee, I'm 90% sure he's creating material profiles somehow. The UM3 has pretty much the same firmware as the S3/S5 so I would think they all import material profiles from the gcode file on the USB. I'm sorry I know very little about this. I have an S5 but don't create material profiles.

The above chart led me to Design Spark Mechanical and I just love it but your needs may be different than mine.

You can just fix the model for now - I mean it's pretty obvious to you, hopefully, what the problem is. Just remove any inner walls that are *inside* the model where there shouldn't be any "magic" walls. So I still think this is the best way to pick cad software. I did not create this but I think it's fantastic:

1) Make sure "retract on layer change" is off. 2) Also in PREVIEW mode, step through the extrusions one at a time and see exactly what is happening at this corner. Maybe even look at it with the repetier host gcode viewer. It's free and highlights every extrusion and movement with it's associated gcodes. 3) Do you have "coasting" enabled? 4) Is this happening right after layer change? If so maybe print outer walls last? Maybe you already are.

The feeder upgrade is probably the most important change in the "+" kit. If you want to go cheap you can 3d print the meduza kit and order the parts. Look for meduza um2 on youmagine.com. The meduza upgrade is almost as good as the um2+ feeder - particularly if you also print the iRoberti feeder on top of the meduza upgrade. Ender is cheap, yes. It's probably not going to last you 5000 hours of printing like the UM2 will (more than 5000 really).

If this were an ultimaker I'd look first at the fan that controls the hot end. 1) This could be several things though - it's possible cura sliced the model like this on purpose and the model has faults. If this is true you will see the exact same gaps in the PREVIEW mode in cura. 2) Z axis issues can cause this although it looks so damn perfect everywhere else. Z axis issues would be where the bed suddenly slips down a few extra layers. If your Z axis moves the head and not the bed then I would 98% discount Z axis issues based on how the print looks. 3) Most likely is what Greg said. Temporary underextrusion. So many possible causes from tangled filament to feeder to hot end issues.

Almost certainly an issue with the model. Are you by any chance using blender or sketchup? If so then most likely the problem is with "normals". Read about normals for blender or sketchup and how to fix them. There are other possibilities. Actually I think I see a more serious problem already. I can see your cylinders have walls inside the part. That's a no-no. You can't have walls *inside* a solid. Unless their purpose is to create an air pocket. That's almost certainly the issue. Most cad software will not let you create walls inside a solid like that. I'm guessing you are using blender or sketchup.

I think 20-25% should be (hopefully) enough for this area. Also you want a few "top skin" layers. At least 3 layers in the top skin.

Probably insufficient infill just under this? Not certain. Could also be minor underextrusion but I don't see any other underextrusion.

Please look at the image in this post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/14378-2-warping-problem/?do=findComment&comment=150870 Brim helps for sure along with 4 other tricks but squish is so so so important! By far the most important thing. I don't do brim - especially on smaller parts. I use brim only as a last resort for very difficult, high temperature materials.

Do you have digital factory "enterprise"? I don't know if that matters or not but I thought I'd ask in case someone else who knows more than me has ideas. Anyway, if you do, does your colleague use the same domain name in his email address as everyone else in the team? (again - not sure if this matters but I hear things).

It sounds like your filament isn't sticking to the bed well enough. Probably the most common issue. There are many things you can do but probably the most important is to squish a little more. Filament sticks better if you squish it into the bed more. So after your leveling process is done, try moving the bed closer to the nozzle by a bit more. I actually got good at leveling the bed while it prints the skirt. It's confusing, easy to panic, but if you do it every time for the next 200 prints, you will get good at it until it's just automatic.

I know quite a few people who just don't bother with xy calibration and it works reasonably well. There's a way to just enter the values without going through the procedure I believe? So you could I suppose do your own xy calibration pattern and calculate how much to move. The other trouble is I don't know the units for the values in the xy calibration. Each unit might be .1 or .05mm? I don't know. Someone knows as someone posted this information once long ago.

@GregValiant might know

As you can see the 5v fan (rear fan) and the "subdivision" jumper are close enough that they can be confused.

If you heat the nozzle the fan is definitely on by 60C so you only have to heat to say 80C. Yes, check that fan wire. Sometimes people connect it to the center of the board where there is a spot for a jumper that alters the substepping for the z stepper which acts as a short if connected to the fan and you get parts either twice or half as tall as desired (and also the fan doesn't spin).

I assume you already read this? https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667418045432 So this is a very tricky problem to debug. Normally I say "call your reseller" but this is extra tricky - I'd call ultimaker support and speak with someone (voice or email) directly who has fixed dozens of printers with this issue. It looks like you are in USA so you could email fbrc8.com directly. They assembled all the S5 printers and material stations sold in USA and have a good support staff who can help you. You should include your serial number in the very first email to save time (support@fbrc8.com) or you can use the official Ultimaker ticketing system and talk to someone in the Netherlands potentially by going here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/contactsupport Even if your warranty ran out you can still get free support (suggestions and diagnosis). It's only if you need a part that it matters if you still have your warranty or not.

Did you export your model from blender as an STL file? Did you try loading an old model that you know worked in the past? What version of Cura are you using? Please post the log file from cura.

Is this a tinkercad question or a slicer question? Search on youtube for how to create a "lobster in tinkercad". This will give you a more continuous curve. It will still have segments but maybe it will be better. Cura doesn't do "curves". It receives an STL file and STL files don't define curves. So all you can do is smaller line segments. If you go too small, the firmware may slow down. the firmware should not slow down for gentle curves like in your image. But if you have too many line segments (> 16) over the distance of only 1 mm then the printer will indeed slow down because it has to always be ready to stop within the next 16 line segments (feature of Marlin firmware - not as much of a problem with Klipper firmware). When you have line segments as in your image above, Marlin will not need to slow down. It does not stop at each "corner".