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Yeah that looks like underextrusion. This is rare on the S5 - it just works so damn well as far as underextrusion is concerned. Here are a few things to check: 1) Double check that it is really PLA. Sometimes people accidentally think it's PLA but it's PETG, ABS, or something else that needs a higher temp. 2) Did you mess with print settings? particularly did you: increase line width (check the automated line widths as well to see if they are larger than nozzle size) decrease temperature increase print speed change flow rate change line width percent 3) Front fan - if the front fan stops spinning (not the side 2 fans) you get underextrusion. Sometimes severe. Do the MOVE command for the filament which heats up the core and as it gets above around 60C flip open the front door and make sure the fan spins. 4) extrusion test - using the MOVE command, once it is up to temp, make a kink in the extruded filament and then see how quickly you can get that to the bed. On the S5 I believe it's around 10 seconds when things are working great. 20 seconds is probably too slow. 5) Feeder test. While in the MOVE command, hold the up button until you see the end of the filament in the bowden. now hit the down arrow once every few seconds and reach behind the printer and pull down hard on the filament. The S5 can extrude with about 15 pounds (about 7kg) of force. That's a lot. Try to get it to slip (I can't from the front - not strong enough). If you get it to slip, pick up some weights and estimate the pulling force of the printer. While back there make sure the tension setting is at half way point. This should tell you if the problem is feeder versus print core. 6) Core test. Swap with the other AA 0.4 print core. Each S5 comes with 2. Do the test #4 above to see if it's any different. 7) Try a different filament. Do test #4 above.

humidity have you been keeping the PVA either in an air tight plastic package or in the material station (MS)? If you do "move material" (middle menu on the left, select pva towards the top right then click the vertical "..." and select "MOVE") and if you wait for it to heat and push the down arrow to extrude does it pop and hiss due to boiling water? Or just steam a little bit? (if it steams but silently it's probably okay). underextrusion While doing the move, put a kink in the extruded filament near the nozzle and see how quickly you can get that to reach the bed by pressing the down arrows quickly but not too quickly (there is a perfect medium where you get max extrusion rate). 5 seconds is fantastic. 10-20 seconds is good. 25 seconds means you probably have something wrong with your feeder, your print core, or the filament has cracked. Also check that the front fan is working. not the side fans. Make sure it is spinning when you are doing that MOVE command. You can back up the filament with the up arrow so it stops extruding, then pop open the door and check that the fan is spinning just fine. When the fan stops spinning you end up with mysterious underextrusion issues.

I should mention that although the subject of this topic and the original poster mentioned UM2+C, I have been talking exclusively about the S3/S5/S7. The recent poster has an S5, not a "2+C". The "2+C" probably will not respond well to connman. The S3/S5/S7 have a capable connman that should be able to handle proxy servers.

Did you try a print to see how bad the stringing is? Maybe there won't be any stringing. Also, maybe you don't need any infill? Or if you only want the infill to support the top layers then you can do variable infill.

You can indeed change the esteps/mm but it changes it for both extruders. Also you should never have to adjust those. You can test the extruder (extrude exactly 50mm and then measure how far the filament moves) but esteps shouldn't need adjusting. UNDEREXTRUSION It looks fine. The bottom layer is underextruded but maybe leveling had a bit of something on the tip of the nozzle and levelled slightly high and that should only affect the bottom layer. Also the top of those bridges are underextruded but that's not too surprising for above bridges. What about a "normal" print. Are normal prints also underextruded? There are many possible causes but I want to see that it's underextruding something other than these special cases (just above bridging and bottom layer).

I'm asking if the pulley was able to spin on the shaft when you *loosened* it. My first guess is that you didn't loosen the pulley enough and it didn't spin to balance the tightness of the belt. This is issue #1. Issue #2 is repairing that pulley. Well maybe you can leave it as is and loosen the other pulley on the same belt. It doesn't matter which pulley you loosen. Just be much more careful this time to not strip the set screw. Push the print head around until the set screw is most easily accessed with the hex driver. Insert fully and as perpendicular as possible. It takes quite a bit of force to loosen and you want to use even more force to tighten later on. Make damn sure the pulley spins freely on the shaft and that you can get good tension. If not then and only then should you buy that from dynamism but now realize you need to probably loosen both pulleys to get the old belt off and the new one on. I'm not certain. You might be able to do it with one pulley still connected to the rod. I should warn you that most people do NOT tighten the set screws enough later. Everything seems fine but they go to print and the pulley slips a bit on the shaft and each layer is printed with a bit of offset. So if you have this issue then you didn't tighten the set screws enough. If it turns out you need to get that pulley off then you should by a screw extractor. Google it. They are reverse threaded drilling bits that drill into the center of the screw in CCW direction and eventually get a good "bite" and pull the set screw right out. You'll need to replace it with a new set screw.

I disabled combing (set it to "off") and that eliminated those long travel moves and it also cut your print time from 3:40 to 2:15. So it saves about 1.5 hours. However you may get more bumps or strings on the outside of your part (you'll have to try it and see).

Did you use the proper diameter hex tool? These set screws are incredibly tight and so if you use the wrong tool you can strip it. You want a metric, 2mm hex screwdriver. You want a flat end (not a ball end). In fact it's good to have both types of hex drivers (ball end, and normal) for these printers. The ball end lets you come in at an angle. The flat ends hold screws in mid-air nicely. I don't think the ball ends are strong enough to tighten these. When you loosened the pulley, did it spin on the shaft? Can you double check that? If not then something is wrong with the spring inside the sliding blocks. You can buy an entire sliding block/belt kit (I don't think you can buy the belts alone). Or you can take apart the offending block and there is a spring system. It's quite difficult to get the block apart, and it's tricky to get it together with that powerful spring in there. That's why they sell them as assemlies. The assemblies do not include a pulley. You can get a pulley from your reseller. You can buy them also on the internet but I don't recommend that. Many have the center hole badly aligned with the pulley. Even just 0.1mm of offset of the center hole on the pulley means you will have + and - .1mm errors on the positioning of the walls of your parts.

So every computer in your lan should be running through the proxy server. I would think. So for example if at work you have a PC you can go into it and look at the proxy settings. See if there is a password or other authentication (often not). See what the actual address and port is for the proxy server. See if there is a proxy setup file. If so open it up as it's easy to read with a text editor. I still recommend you use connman. That's what Ultimaker experts recommended. It may sort-of work with profile.d but I think it will work better with connman (the proxy part). You could look up the flavor of linux you have by doing a google search to find out. You might have "buster" version of debian? Firmware 5.8 switched to Buster but maybe there is now newer version of debian. Buster is also known as debian version 10. Then if it's buster you could google "how to setup a proxy server on debian buster" and see if they recommend profile.d versus connman. I predict they will recommend connman as the only reliable solution for the particular flavor of linux found on your printer.

Tinkering? It works for >90%. Probably > 95%. Maybe even > 99% of the printers just fine. The issue seems to be noise but it's hard to trace down the source of noise as it can be different for each printer. It's also not clear if the fan is acting as an antenna picking up noise or if the fan is creating noise. Recently someone discovered the fan is still slightly on even when software turns it to "off". So that was fixed in a recent release but may have nothing to do with the problem. It's hard to fix a bug when every printer you have in your factory doesn't have the problem.

>Sure. What are you referring to? So did the above work? Does your proxy server require authentication? If there is no authentication then that simplifies things drastically. You didn't enter any kind of username/password or anything above so I assume there is no proxy user/password system in your situation. So I read through your screenshot above. Firstly you don't need "sudo" because you are already logging in as "root" which is the admin account for linux. sudo means "switch user do" aka "super user do" and is for non root accounts. It doesn't hurt - you just don't need that. Did the "reboot" command cause the printer to reboot? If not you might have to use a different command such as "shutdown -r now". "reboot" works on most linux versions but shutdown tends to work on more. So you created a profile.d file. Some versions of linux use that and many don't. If what you did doesn't work I'd try connman. Google how to use connman. connman is the preferred method for changing network settings (including proxy settings) in this flavor of linux (I think it's debian version 10 aka "buster"). You might even want to include "buster" or "debian" in your googling. Don't include "ultimaker" as that will restrict your results to almost nothing.

There are probably over 100 different proxy server protocol types so it can be very difficult to support more than the top 5 or so. The above tutorial that you linked to won't be very helpful as the S5 doesn't have a graphical interface to the networking features. So in your case "connman" is your friend. connman is open source software that should be able to configure almost any proxy network protocol. It is very well documented. It is a commonly included utility in many linux distributions. So you need to get access to the linux shell where you can control connman and then you can google about how to use connman. To get to the linux shell you want to first put the S5 into dev mode. I believe the only thing that does is let you connect into the printer. I have dev mode on since I got the printer. You do this on the front panel of the S5 printer. I'm not sure exactly where but it's not hard to find. Maybe configuration? Then it will show the ip address on the printer. You want to ssh into the printer from another computer on the same LAN. Use root/ultimaker as the username/password. Once you get the shell prompt you can start inquiring of connman what the current network settings are and go from there.

Macs are complicated to support and a mystery to me as I can't keep track of the names of the various operating systems and hardware and such but this page should help you find a compatible version: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337917781

Don't be afraid to try again. It's very unlikely to fail. However what features do you want that are in 8.1.1? In my perspective I'm not eager to swap my current known minor bugs which all have work arounds with a newer version of firmware that has new, different (minor) bugs which I then need to find workarounds for. Most of the useful bug fixes and features in the last few years have been related to the air manager (AM), the material station (MS) and Digital Factory (DF). So if you don't use those you might want to just stick with version 5.3.0. Some features go away in 8.X. Many networking features. If you aren't using DF and are using the printer directly over the network then you may be quite upset when you upgrade to 8.X. I think actually most of the changes in 8.X are related to networking.

I think we do have it. Read above. It's the order you load the STL files. At least it used to be. I'm pretty sure it still is.

It is? I thought the scan line thing was wrong and the order placed idea was the correct one.

This happens sometimes (crash during update). most of the time a reboot (power cycle) finishes the install. Or usually worst case the install never completed and you are at the older version. Most updates take less than 2 minutes or at least show changes on the display every 30 seconds or so. There are a few updates that had to reformat all the saved profiles or something that could take maybe 8 minutes. 45 minutes is too long. It's time to power cycle.

Yes. There is a plugin called something like "pause at Z" or "pause at layer" just for this purpose. It works with many/most printers. Does your printer have Marlin firmware? So in cura click on the button in the top corner: "Marketplace". It's one of the most popular so should be easy to find.

Okay I'm leaving this thread. message me directly if you want blackbelt cura "fixed".

To get this fixed I need you to do two things please. The first thing is to upload a project file. Go to menu "file" "save project as" and post that. I'll verify the bug, then I'll tell you the second thing.

Here is one of many ways to reduce the number of triangles in your model: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

85 seconds to slice is crazy slow. 5 minutes is ridiculous. My models usually take 1 to 4 seconds to slice. How big is this part? How many slices? Are you doing like 0.05mm slices? Do you have many thousands of slices? How many triangles are in your STL files? 85 seconds seems very unreasonable to me. Your loading time is also surprisingly slow. Typically the most detailed models shouldn't need more than 50,000 triangles in the STL file. Some people have millions of triangles but that is a waste as the printer can't print to that kind of resolution anyway. You may want to "decimate" your model (reduce the qty of triangles). Also be warned that when you slice a model with more than 5 triangles per mm, the printer can actually slow down significantly because it can't process the gcodes as fast as it would normally print. So too many triangles in the STL can also cause the printer itself to stutter as it prints (it keeps stopping and starting to give it time to fill it's buffer with movements which causes horrible print quality - this is a case where "less is more").

Oh! Well it might just need a little bit of oiling on the 6 gantry rods. Use WD40 or just regular oil and a rag to clean the rods.

There are many causes. You already did the lift switch calibration. Really the first step to diagnosing this is to watch the process carefully to determine if it's an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. So please do that and report back. 1) Surface detected too early. As it does the leveling it never even touches the glass. This indicates electrical problem such as nearby interference. Do the leveling sensor test in maintenance and report back on the number it displays (< 8 is a pass). 2) Surface detected too late. The test relies on the capacitance changing. The surface isn't detected until the glass moves down without the nozzle moving up. Visually you see it touching the glass and still moving down more on one core than the other and it's usually obvious. It could be the springs are too tight on the print bed or too loose on the core but this is very rare. 3) Cores are truly different heights. This more common than you might think. They can vary. If you look in the log file you can see what was measured. The cores are supposed to be 1.5mm different height nominally with an error of only 0.7mm allowed. It could be a bit of gunk on the nozzle tip that wasn't hot enough to squish flat during the procedure. This is extremely difficult to measure on the core itself with a micrometer as it's the height from the tip of the core to how it seats inside the print head so to the 45 degree angled area of the core just above the heat break. So if it's issue #3 I'd just try a different core on the right core. Or left core. Sometimes the lifting switch doesn't function so it measures the same nozzle twice which is of course a problem. This is the easiest of all things here to fix. For some reason #3 used to be the main issue but in the last year or so #1 seems to be most common and it has to do with the electromagnetic interference from the front fan.

Be careful when you solder together. You want the short loop wire to connect the black of one fan to the red of the other. And the remaining red and black cables to go to the correct wiring. If you do it backwards I don't know what will happen. Either nothing or it will burn out the fans.