gr5

Order it from my store then: gr5.org/store/

Unlike PLA, ABS will have bad layer bonding if you print it too cool and/or with too much fan and/or without an enclosure. The part will look great and seem strong until you stress test it and it will break along the layers and you will realize that it is about 10X weaker than it should be. 10X weaker than for example PLA. Because of this reason alone it's often wise to print hotter than 230C. But if you have an enclosure, or if you have 0% fan then 230C is probably fine.

lol. yeah that filament - everyone remembers the smell but it's main selling point is supposed to be that you can bake it and now it's high temp PLA that can withstand boiling water. Anyway that filament smells like a combination of caramel and PLA. It's a nice smell though!

Oh - and I doubt it's the socket. I don't know what it is - bad wiring, bent pin, and it's possible something is damaged on the pcb regarding extruder 0 but I doubt it.

maxtemp should not be related to drivers. They are completely different things. If you are getting maxtemp you might want to concentrate on that first - that means your wire is loose or something similar. The current settings are very delicate and some versions of the pololu are clockwise and some are counterclockwise. Really you should measure the voltage at vref when you mess with those things. I've never had to adjust them. You can mess with pins.h and make extruder0 signals go out extruder1 easy enough. If you have experience building marlin.

I'd raise the bowden until you can see the end of it and make sure it goes down another mm or so *into* the teflon part.

I don't get the bulbous head. Is your bowden tube all the way down? Not UM2+, right? You should be able to see the bowden through the spring and tell if it's all the way into the white teflon part. If it is well seated then I'd guess it's your ptfe coupler. How many hours have you printed on this coupler (you can check in the menu system for hours printed if that helps) and what temperatures do you usually use (max) for prints that are on the high end of the temperature spectrum for you?

Yes but it's pretty minor. I wouldn't want to print ABS and sit next to it but the most common material, PLA, is pretty mild. It depends how sensitive you are. I must be sensitive because ABS makes me a bit nauseous. PLA I could smell all day long. It's a tiny bit like popcorn but not really.

Oh. I was wondering why you wrote "solved" in the title but didn't seem to have an answer. Now I get it.

It's not a special grease. You don't need high temperature grease or condctive grease or anything special.

Don't let the hot end stay at 210C for an hour as this will cook PLA into a clog. 180C is safer but even easier to just do a M302 which allows cold extrusions. Usually if the driver is a little weak or strong in current the servo still moves or vibrates or makes noise.

Sounds like a bug. Most authors of Cura user Marlin firmware in their printer (e.g. ultimaker printers use Marlin) and Marlin doesn't support M108 so I'm not surprised it doesn't work as intended. Maybe one of the cura authors knows the answer. Like @nallath (although I think he does the gui part).

Oh um2 replica! Well hook up pronterface and a USB cable and tell it to move 10mm and see how far it moves. I suspect you simply have the wrong steps/mm value.

Something is wrong. There are several possibilities that I can think of: 1) You have the um2go firmware on a um2. I think you can check that out in the menu where you display the version. 2) The Z motor wiring is not connected well (one wire of four is broken) - probably not as it would probably *only* go down and never up. 3) The "steps/mm" is messed up somehow. I can't remember which version of Marlin allows you to mess with this but if you never messed with it then it probably has the correct value. 4) Wrong stepper motor in the Z and it is moving at half speed (twice as many steps/mm as the normal Z motor). Or wrong z thread - seems unlikely. 5) Too hot - were you using it in a very hot room like say 90F? The stepper driver can overheat and stop stepping briefly causing the bed not to move as far as the computer thinks it moved.

It probably won't help much. There's more details about the problem and solutions but your print looks about as good as I've ever seen it: What causes raised edges and crappy quality on overhangs. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ Skip right to "page 2" and look at foehnstrum's video and read all the posts after that possibly. It's not until around post #39 and later that we really begin to understand what causes the issue. The problem has to do with the fact that liquid PLA is stretchy like melted mozzarella cheese or like mucus. The liquid plastic is pulling like a rubber band as it goes down and creates a lip or raised edge where there is an overhang. The effect gets stronger on each succeeding layer. It is what causes the lower quality "look" of overhangs. Sometimes the part will actually rip free from the bed because of this (which is easily fixed by making parts stick like hell - another topic).

If the "store as preset" followed by selecting "ABS" does not work - this is a known bug which has cropped up a few times. What version of the firmware do you have? If it's more than a year old then upgrade to the latest. If it is the latest version then, I'm sorry - the best fix is to save to SD card and do some major editing. More details here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19700-what-are-the-various-parameters-in-the-materialtxt-file#reply-136309

Some filaments still seem to string no matter how cool you go. I put those filaments in a special box and only use them for certain flat parts such as my quadcopter frame which is completely flat and has almost zero retractions. These filaments also tend not to do overhangs - even mild overhangs very well. They tend to be very thin/liquidy (not very viscous) at normal printing temperatures and I lower the temp to 180C and they still drip. So I'm guessing you have one of those filaments. If the print head is hitting edges - that is common and more is discussed here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ Skip right to "page 2" and look at foehnstrum's video and read all the posts after that possibly. It's not until around post #39 and later that we really begin to understand what causes the issue. The problem has to do with the fact that liquid PLA is stretchy like melted mozzarella cheese or like mucus. The liquid plastic is pulling like a rubber band as it goes down and creates a lip or raised edge where there is an overhang. The effect gets stronger on each succeeding layer. It is what causes the lower quality "look" of overhangs. Sometimes the part will actually rip free from the bed because of this (which is easily fixed by making parts stick like hell - another topic).

The last 2 answers are excellent but I want to add what "heater error" means: heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor) You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds) As of March 2016 I'm pretty sure these values haven't changed and are still at the values they were for version 15.01.

Grab the bowden gently at the feeder and lift. Repeat at the print head. If it isn't tight - if it slides in and out - then fix that first. If that is fixed in place then 4.5mm is just about perfect for retraction distance. The faster the better for the retraction speed because that means less time sitting there oozing while retracting. Even more important you can get good results possibly by increasing the extruder acceleration but if you are going to do that you need to get out a micrometer or ruler and remove the bowden and use repetier host to move the filament 100mm at a time up and down with different accelerations until you find where it loses steps. More likely the fix for your stringing is to lower the temperature. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs

I'm not sure there is any good way to print this any better than what you are doing. But in general for overhangs like this you want MORE FAN! So if you could add a desk fan or something it would likely help some.

Go to the filament menu and choose ABS, then choose "customize" (something like that). Change all the settings you care about then save it and it will seem to be done BUT IT IS NOT - you have to choose which filament to save into so chose ABS again. now it is saved. To be sure, turn off the power and turn it back on, select PLA and then select ABS again. Before you click the final button it will show you the filament settings for that type of filament (it changes every few seconds to show you all the parameters). If you want to do very detailed customizations with your own names (e.g. ninjaflex) you have to save all the settings to the SD card, edit that on a computer and load them back in. I've never done this step. Having said all that, zero fan for ABS is okay for parts that have only vertical walls but for 90% of parts you need a little bit of fan to get reasonable quality. The absolute minimum where the fan blades turn is best - somewhere around 10 to 30%.

And hypodermic needles. They work well also. 28 gauge: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needle_gauge_comparison_chart Anyone who orders anything from my store in the USA gets one of those for free (modified so that it can't be used for it's original purpose).

So are you going to post this somewhere ian?

Please make a quick drawing on paper and photograph it and post it here to make your point more clear. if you want a print in 2 pieces one trick is to print the joining pieces flat on the glass as the glass will hold it in place and you will get consistent accuracy for the 2 halves and then you can glue them together. But PLA is a little bit flexible so you might be better off making pins and holes of some sort so that the halves can be glued but also held with pins. many people instead use screws and nuts and there are other tricks. For shaft bearings you can buy dozens of bearings for very little money. Also you can modify PLA after it prints by sanding or by gently melting - for example a shaft could be left in boiling water until it is above 60C and then inserted into the bearing/hole that it will be inserted into later and the heat from a metal shaft can shape the hole more accurately.

That doesn't sound like a problem. I've had cad models that had maybe 100 line segments within 1mm and the printer basically stopped for a second at that spot and then continued but it still printed just fine.