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Yes reprap/marlin/sprinter is correct. We need more details. Have you gotten the printer to work through the SD card? What doesn't work through octoprint exactly. Is octoprint able to read back the settings of the printer such as temperature? Does the printer start moving when you tell it to print but no plastic comes out? More details please.

Oh - if it's caused by power then the screen will reboot to the normal start up screen. But if it's some other failure it will have a message for example "heater error". Let us know what you find out.

The most common cause for "mid print halting" is that the power cable isn't all the way on the board. If you didn't get the 4 screws in or if it was skewed a little when you tightened them it's really hard to get the power connector completely on. Try pulling gently on the calbe - not the connector (maybe 1 pound or 1kg force) - iit should stay locked on (there is literally a lock on the cable that slides and keeps it from coming off by accident). My guess is it is rubbing against the wall of the printer - loosen the 4 screws that hold the pcb (just one turn), then plug in power properly, then tighten the 4 screws.

Don't run bed leveling - just turn the 3 screws 1/4 turn counter clockwise as seen from below. You want the bottom layer squished slightly - not rope shaped. You want it more pancake shaped. To get stunningly perfect bottom layers takes a lot of experimentation but basically you want to change the bottom layer thickness from .3mm to .1mm and you have to play with those 3 knobs whlie printing the first layer and you have to cancel the print and repeat maybe 10 times until you get it perfect. If you do the leveling procedure you will wreck it and have to start over. Basically with a .3mm bottom layer thickness getting the bottom layer accurate to .2mm is okay and accurate to within .1mm is great. But with a .1mm bottom layer you want to get the leveling accurate to about .03mm which is incredibly accurate for this machine and might not be achievable (tiny warps in the rods and glass). Anyway stick to .3mm bottom layer for now and just move that glass up a 1/4 turn. What temp was your glass? For PLA I recommend 60C - for ABS 100C.

I have 39W heater on my um2go and the olsson block (and also a heated bed kit) and it works great. I didn't mess with the PID settings for the next 30 or so prints and it was fine but eventually I just lowered them a bit and now the temp doesn't oscillate so much (it wasn't really a problem but it bothered me sometimes that the temp kept oscillating forever by 5C). The whole point of the olsson block is to be able to swap nozzles. If you plan to always print with .4mm nozzle then there isn't a strong reason to get the olsson block. Although it does help you diagnose underextrusion I suppose.

"it's a bug not a feature". Um. Well it's a feature that you can't control this independently. Cura has an invisible setting called "line width" which is controlled by a combination of nozzle size and shell width. If (as you should always do) you set the shell width to a multiple of nozzle width then line width will be equal to nozzle width. All traces - brim/shell/infill/support - everything - is drawn at "line width". It would be nice to have the support be a different line width but there's no way to do that. So now by default the grid is at 15% fill amount - so with thicker lines the lines are farther apart. If you want the grid lines closer together try 30%. Also you can reduce the amount of brim lines by half since your nozzle is twice as thick.

I'm really not an expert. But people have claimed before that oil gummed up their vertical linear bearings. The rods through the head only move in one direction, they don't rotate. So that bearing has 4 rows of ball bearings in it. Because the balls roll against steel on either side (the rod on one side, the insides of the bearing on the other) you can have high friction and they still roll smoothly. In fact for a car - it's considered *good* to have the wheels not slip on the road - they roll nicely with very little friction slowing the car down. But I supposed those ball bearings do touch each other on the sides - each bearing is rolling such that where two balls touch the direction is opposite. I assume. Unless there is a smaller ball in between them. Which I doubt. So a little oil there might help. The only bad thing about oil is if helps the dust get stuck inside the bearings. Without the oil the dust would tend to slide right out of the bearing as easily as it gets inside. So don't worry about it. I used to oil mine also for years and no problems yet. Worst case - take it all apart and clean the hell out of those ball bearings with wd-40, then clean it completely dray before reassembling. In contrast - the upper 4 rods in the upper corners - they pass through the black blocks in the upper edges and those are simpler bearings - no balls - just a metal tube. That definitely needs oil. These rods rotate in the bearing *and* slide in the bearing so linear bearings will not work there.

Two theories: 1) When printing slower there is less plastic being melted so less heat is needed. Because less heat is needed it might be easier for the PID to not get out of control (to not oscillate). 2) It is doing it but because you are printing slower the cycle happens more often per layer so it's not as noticable. For exampe - 2 photos up - it does it on both prints but because the left print is slower it happens more than once per layer whereas on the print on the right it happens almost perfectly once per layer (but slightly earlier/later - not sure which if printing CW or CCW - each time).

Make sure in cura you configured your "machine" to be "reprap" mode and not ultigcode. There should be a tab that has your start and stop gcode. You need to mess with that part. There may be suggestions from other people with your printer or if you have gcode that *does* work (from some other slicer) you can copy and paste the beginging gcodes into cura.

The motors won't move because of the stop switch. There's lots of possiblities. The most likely is that something fell in the hole where the stop switch is - lift your Z bed with 2 hands and look under it - there is a screw sticking very far down. Look where that screw will go - jiggle that stop switch - make sure you hear it click. Often a piece of plastic gets in there. If nothing obvious yet, take the cover off the PCB again and trace that cable - I'm thinking you disconnected it maybe during the upgrade.

I think there are a few things that will make it abort. I think if it trips past the max temp that might do it. For example I think by default the max dial temp in menu is 260 and the max temp is always 15C hotter so 275. If during PID autotune it goes above 275 it will probably fail. So maybe try autotuning at a lower temp - for example 200C? What temp did you autotune at? I hope not 150C like you did before. Ideally you want to autotune to a temp roughly close to where you will be using it (e.g. 190C to 250C). Or you can use the default values that come with the plus (which is a 35W heater) or you can take the 25W heater values and multiple by 25/35. The default PID values are 10,2.5,100 for the 25W heater. For 35W heater you might try 7.5, 1.8, 75. Or use the values you came up with your PID tuning earlier (12.58,1.9,20.86) although that was done at 150C. :(

Of all the photos - the most interesting to me is 2 photos up - that photo if you click on it - the part on the right side - the overhead view you can clearly see cycles of over and under extrusion. That particular print seems to coincidentally have it such that the underextrusion occurrs in a very repeatable pattern time-wise such that it occurs in a particular spot on one layer and then goes away for a while and then comes back when it is doing the layer above but a bit to the left. I'm pretty sure your temperature is cycling. You say it's stead but I don't think it is. Something is making the temperature go up and down by at least 5C. probably more like 15C. I thought about mechanical things that would interlink X and Y with extruder or X and Y with Z but nothing I can think of would make that pattern other then temperature cycles. Which is very plausible. But I'm very surprised you didn't see this pattern in the temperature display. If you did see the temperature moving by 5C or more then I would try to fix the PID values. But if not then I would blame the sensor or the sensor circuitry. To me this looks so much like bad PID values but again you would see the temperature changing slowly every minute. This also explains why the hotter prints are fine - they aren't underextruding so much because the temperature is higher so it's not so bad.

Vous devez également mettre à niveau le micrologiciel. Voilà pourquoi le moteur tourne à l'envers.

It's almost certainly the power supply. Is the cable loose? This is very common. It should snap on, play with the power cable by itself, notice how the outer portion slides. Now insert it and make sure it clicks in place. Give it a few pounds of pull to make sure it stays in there. If you have trouble getting it properly on, trying loosening the 4 screws of the PCB and then plug in power and then tighten them. How many watts is it? You might have gotten a um2go power supply by accident. UM2extended+ should be 221 Watts. Even if it's the right one, I would ask the supplier for another one. While waiting you could try printing with the bed cold and with blue tape on the glass (washed with alcohol to get it off).

dcp360 you have underextrusion. Most likely you are printing too fast. Check ALL speeds including the infill speed. Your temp is probably fine but you know it's not fine if it cycles by more than +/- 5C while printing. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. If nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 5b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 5c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it.

The filament was probably getting stuck somewhere in the print head and didn't make it all the way to the nozzle. Try moving the material up and down a few times using the "move material" menu and push the bowden around left/right/front/back until the material suddenly moves much farther down (watch it carefully through the bowden tube) and eventually it should start extruding properly.

Keep us informed! I have the plus kit and haven't had a problem yet.

Maybe you went a little too tight. The 4 rods in the upper corners of the printer should be oiled with any light petroleum oil such as 3 in 1 or sewing machine oil. The 4 rods through the head shouldn't be oiled. Push the head around with power off before and after adding oil. Also put something (newspaper/rag) on the bed so it doesn't get oil on it while doing this.

This is near the top of this section of the part and you have top/bottom thickness set to 3mm. Which is a lot! .9mm should be plenty. or even .6mm. If you want the tops of your part to be hollow then set this value to zero - or just do it for an experiment and see what happens in layer view.

Here is our very own @LePaul at the opening to batman versus superman a few days ago. He's the one in the batman costume.

Shell can be 3x nozzle size. That's fine. Or any multiple as long as it's an integer (not 2.5X nozzle). But if you ever set shell to a value not an integer of nozzle - well it's just a bad idea. Then you have to go through the code way above in that black code post and figure out what Cura will decide to do. So just don't do it ever. Even for experts. For experts you can lie about your nozzle size but don't mess with "shell/nozzle = integer" rule. I'm not sure I understand the rest of your post. Physically using a .35mm nozzle should give you more details on your prints. My favorite example is the corner of a cube will (best case) have the radius of curvature of the same as your nozzle. So the smaller the nozzle then the less rounded the corners. and the more other sharp details you can get e.g. wrinkles on someones face. As for dimensional accuracy - how far apart walls are on a cube - those should only be affected by shrinkage factors. Should. In theory. I don't know what else would affect them. Nozzle width shouldn't affect that. You can use 1mm nozzle and print a 10mm cube and it should be the exact same dimensions (side to side) as if you use a .25mm nozzle. Just the corners will be more rounded.

Still reading this tboon? These are common problems and easy to fix but I fear you already returned your machine.

First to answer the question. The gcode requests a specific speed, that is then multiplied by the percentage you refer to. Then lots of things happen - for one there is a max speed for all 4 axes (yes, Extruder is an axis - x,y,z,e) and all moves are done linearly (a straight line in 4 dimensional space - no curves allowed!) so if the next move involves any of those axes going over the max speed then it is restricted. For example if max XY is 300mm/sec and max Z is 10mm/sec and your move involves moving Z by 1mm and X by 10mm then it will move X at 100mm/sec because any faster and Z has to exceed it's max speed of 10mm/sec. Then to make things more complicated there are maximium "jerk" and maximum acceleration settings for all the axes. If your move only involves XY then yes it's much simpler. But still the axis may never get up to 300mm/sec if the acceleration isn't high enough. To reduce the Z scar many people like to increase the Z acceleration. Increasing the max velocity makes no difference (because it's only moving typically .1mm and doesn't have time to accelerate up to full speed) but increasing acceleration makes a big difference - your Z axis movement can go from making a "bzzt" sound to a much faster "tick" sound. 300mm/sec was chosen I believe not because of servo or hardware restrictions but because that's the most pulses the arduino can put out per second if all axes are moving and still have some cpu cycles left over for important things like planning the next deceleration. But that assumes the steppers on a typical UM which I think is something like 200 steps/mm? I forget but that would be 300*200 or 60000 steps per second for each axis moving! Another reason to get the hell off the wimpy arduino and onto a more expensive $10 cell phone cpu.

@cloakfiend Bridging Bridging likes thicker lines/strands of filament. It tends to break near where you started the bridge because the strand gets too thin and sometimes breaks there. People have requested that Cura somehow (maybe in combination with a special gcode and marlin) over extrudes the first bit of bridge (maybe the first 5mm on a 50mm bridge span? different distances for distant spans?). Just doing thicker layer height or thicker nozzle helps also. Setting nozzle to .46 just for bridging purposes seems - well - like sacrificing one thing for another. Accuracy Definition of "line width": Cura's goal for the width of the lines - if your shell is an integral multiple of nozzle then your nozzle width is your line width. Cura prints inward from the edge of your model by half the line width and spaces the lines by the line width. So line width SHOULD NOT CHANGE ACCURACY. But of course it probably does as @yellowshark claims. Just to clarify - this is easy to test by slicing a simple cube say 10mm on the side (slice it hollow and with zero top/bottom infill and one shell pass so it's easier to read the gcode). If your nozzle and line width is .4mm you will see that the X and Y lengths of the sides are 10-.4 or 9.6mm! Not 10mm! Cura prints .2mm inwards from the edge on each side. If you change the nozzle/line width to .5mm Cura will accordingly change the lengths of travel for an outer side to 9.5mm (.25mm inward on all 4 sides). Cura does this not just for cubes but for all surfaces.

This is very common. The stepper motor can only push so hard - about 5kg of force. There can be many causes but seeing the incredible speed of that motor I'm guessing you are just printing too fast. The hotter the filament is, the less viscous it is. So at 190C the filament is more like toothpaste and at 240C PLA is more like honey. Did you change to a smaller nozzle size recently? Did you change filaments recently (some PLA needs higher temperature)? Is it possible you are now printing ABS and before PLA? Check all the printing speeds in cura - especially the infill speed (which should be zero): Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. What is your: print speed, nozzle size, layer height, printing temperature? Material? I want to see if you are within expected printing speed range.