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Well actually, once the chip is damaged with static the chip can *then* have a short circuit which can cause it to heat up. So that's a 3rd theory I guess. I'm kind of repeating your 3 things you mentioned (the 3 differences between your printer and standard printer) back to you.

I recommend you use an oscilloscope to look at vref1 and vref2 (and later vref1 with relationship to the other signals on the chip) during power up. I'm guessing maybe one of the signals gets to full power before one of the vrefs? Or maybe vref1 powers up *before* vref2? My point is I think this may have to do with how quickly the power comes on - it may be that if the power supply comes up slower or faster than the "standard" supply you get burn out that chip. Alternatively it could be during the power *off* sequence so look at those signals during that procedure also. A different theory says somehow grounding your frame is causing the problem. But this seems less likely to me. Static discharge doesn't usually cause visual damage on the *outside* of a chip. More typically it will damage a single resistor or two inside the chip but not generate enough heat to show on the packaging.

lol. I don't know if you will get any takers as this list is for UM people but I approved your topic anyway. I *do* sell a UM2 1.75mm filament kit for the UM2 series printers but I don't recommend it at this time. You should be posting this on some 1.75mm printer forum.

I just tested this on the latest and it works fine - opened an obj file although I used the win64 version (I don't have a mac). But I suspect this is fixed. I used version 2.0.99-20160304 (5 days ago).

I don't have time right now to check your gcode file - dinner is ready - but ALL the problems shown in your photo will probably go away if you cut the speed by 1/3. I'm familiar with all those issues in that photo.

Olsson block will not work on the UMO. However the nozzles work great - but the existing fan shroud is too low (the nozzles are shorter so fan shroud will hit the bed). There are some great printable fan shrouds for the UMO specifically designed to work with the E3D style nozzles (olsson block uses E3D style nozzles) which I can link you to if interested.

Well there are several ways to tell. One way is to check for if the temperature is set. Only reprap mode sets the temperature (near the top of the file) of the nozzle (and also the bed if you have it). I think there are other ways if you look at the comments. Also realize that if you are in cura you can go to the file menu and choose "load profile from gcode...". Every gcode file has all the settings encoded at the bottom - cura can read this and set all your settings to those values then you can go through leisurely through all the cura menus and see what the settings were at when you created the file but I don't think it will tell you if it was ultigcode mode or reprap mode. But everything else is in there.

By the way the tinker firmware is awesome! I love it. It's so easy to use. It has amazing features with better leveling control and ability to resume a failed print. You can adjust PID values right from the menu and much much more.

tinker marlin not yet compatible with um2+. Just um2. Although it might be as simple as adjusting steps/mm and possibly adjusting PID settings. Tell Erin and Joseph George says hi. So anyway the um2+ kit does indeed come with a 35W heater and everyone I spoke to said there's nothing wrong with putting a 35W heater in a UM2. I have sold many dozens of these with no complaints and 3dsolex I assume has sold hundreds. Even Erin's husband says it's fine and at the worst you have to modify PID values. I think "it's not compatible" was just a simplification. tinker gnome latest versions: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

I'm sorry your third screw doesn't turn. Maybe the thread is bound or it needs some copper grease (it gets hot so you can't use regular oil). You will continue to have parts coming loose from the bed (occasionally - not every print) until you figure out a good way to turn that 3rd screw or you level with no paper at all or somewhere between. I believe this is the root cause of most of your issues (but definitely not all) above. UM has a history of users hacking the machines - UM is open source software, and open source hardware, UM used to encourage taking the machine apart and playing with it. I suspect they still do. I'm not sure what the policy is today but in general they prefer you fix it and they only mail you the broken part(s) versus paying for shipping an entire printer. Especially since usually the solution is something as simple as "turn the 3 screws 1/4 turn CCW". I believe there is a single sticker that warns you not to touch a certain part of the product without calling tech support. I believe that sticker is on the heating connectors for the heated bed. I believe this is the *only* thing that you can mess with that might violate warranty. And after you talk to them on the phone even that can be taken apart. Well I know for sure that if you take something apart and break something while taking it apart that isn't covered either.

Well I left out #4 on the list above - the extruder speeds up and slows down but I thought that too unlikely to mention. But I have to admit the evidence (different spacing on different diameter cylinders) agrees better with "extruder speed changing". Is the gear on your extruder not round? The only way it can be the extruder is if it speeds up for a little while and then slows down again. Maybe something is off center? You have to realize that just measuring the distance that the filament moves (or z axis moves) might be difficult to notice as this problem is a bit subtle (yes it's easy to see on the walls but that could be just 30% over extrusion).

Oh - and yeah - sometimes prints take 49 hours. I am not going to give any advice on splitting the print up into multiple without seeing it first.

49 hours - don't do that for your very first print. Well to start with why not post an image of your print. You can probably get away with very little infill - try setting that to 0% or 10%. Try setting layer height to .2mm and shell to .8mm and speed to 40mm/sec. Now how long? Well you can speed it up more by using the .8mm nozzle that comes with your new printer. Set the nozzle width in cura to 0.8mm. Now you can make layer height .3mm and the shell will be one pass instead of 2 .4mm passes. now how long is the print? It takes quite a few prints to get good at using the machine so I recommend the first 20 or so prints be under an hour to print each until you are getting very good results.

This banding can be caused by very few things: 1) A height issues where the bed doesn't move down w;hen it should so you are printing once or twice basically at the same height or maybe the bed doesn't move down as far as it should. 2) Temperature fluctuations - easily detected because you can actually read the temp off the controller while it is printing and it has to be > 5C to see stuff like this and usually it's not so severe. 3) filament fluctuations- also easily detected - for this severe overextrusion you would easily see filament diameter changes. BY FAR the most likely issue is #1 but this issue can be divided into many sub issues. Note that the spacing on the UMO threading is 3mm and your pattern also appears to be about 3mm. i recommend you measure this distance both on the Z screw and on your parts. Instead of measuring the distance directly, measure the distance between say 5 threads and divide by 5. Or 5 "bumps" and divide by 5. This way you get a more accurate result. Anyway your z stage is probably sticking or maybe your Z screw is wobbly. Try moving the bed up and down by hand. Try greasing it. Move it electronically up and down - does it wobble? The higher speed printing creates more violent vibrations which can make the bed stick less. Such that the bed doesn't get stuck at a given height. Sometimes adding a weight to the bed can help - about 2 pounds is good. Near the back. Alternatively try printing sideways with *less* weight on the bed.

There is a small amount of space when all the way down - about 1cm. Can you design your mount to use no more than that much space?

Where exactly did you get this beta version? There are many beta versions and some are more hidden than others. If this is indeed the latest beta version that came out a few days ago I'll pass this bug on to Marrit.

Oh! I take it all back! Looking at the picture carefully I agree - the outer two parts appear to have come up off the bed. BY THE WAY IT WOULD HAVE BEEN HELPFUL IF YOU ADDED A SENTENCE EXPLAINING THE FAILURE. The picture is very helpful but pointing out the exact issue would have helped. If I am correct - and this is the issue (the parts tilted) then the solution is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. The problem is related to getting parts to stick and clearly you aren't squishing your plastic enough. You have lots of brim - that's good. But you need to level the bed a little *closer*. Turn the 3 levelins screws 1/2 turn counter clockwise as seen from below. By the way I checked and the UM2+ and UM2ext+ has THREE (3) leveling screws. Not 2. The third one is way in the back - hard to see if you don't get your head down there and look. So: please! Stop using the leveling pricedure. Instead use the 3 screws for fine adjustments. Your bed is already level - you just need to adjust the distance for the bottom layer to get your parts to stick better. This is kind of hilarious. The most common problem people have with the printer is getting the parts to stick to the bed. That's one of my earliest posts in this thread - how to get parts to stick but then we got off on all kinds of tangents and are now back to the beginning. Parts need to stick well!

Well the only reply I got so far is from Simon at fbrc8 (he's very smart). He mentioned that the PID values are tuned for a 25W heater and my um2go does oscillate a bit in temperature but I don't mind. The quick fix is to lower the 3 PID values by the ratio of 25/35. In theory this is the proper values for PID. In practice you can run the PID autotune feature. If you already have tinkergnome Marlin installed you can edit the PID values there easily. Alternatively there are several easy tools to play with PID settings for your print head. But again, the default values for the 35W heater are good enough for me.

lol. That's strange since my understanding is that the UM2+ kit includes a 35W heater. I haven't gotten my upgrade kit yet but it should arrive soon. I have no idea why they would say that - I wish they were more explicit. Was this UM support in Netherlands? Or UM support at fbrc8? I guess I can ask them all directly. I'll do that as they all subscribe to he same chat group that I'm a member of. Will get back to you. However I have the 35W heater in my Um2 and a 39W in my um2go but haven't changed the heater in my um2ext yet.

Songez à commander une pièce sur 3dhubs.com. Vous pouvez spécifier la partie à imprimer sur une machine que vous voulez donc vous pouvez spécifier le TAZ, puis l'imprimer à nouveau sur le UM2 +.

Well it looks like a Y axis problem (the one that moves the head towards the front and back). Do you agree? So you only have to check the Y end stops and the Y pulleys and the Y belts. 90% of the time this problem is one of the pulley set screws are too loose - you have to tighten the hell out of those screws - enough that the tool twists a little! The other items that concern me quite a bit is that belt tensioner on the Y axis that you mention. You should remove that for a few prints just to see if the problem still happens -- or maybe that's the only proglem. The final item that conerns me is the Y stepper (rear left corner). You want the pulley slid along the axis as close as possible to the motor without touching the motor. This is to keep the belt from touching the wood even slightly. If it *is* touching you can detect this 2 ways - you may see rubber dust accumulating in the area or below the area. Also when you see the motor switch directions on the Y axis you can see the belt twist different ways each time back and forth. Whereas the other axis is fine. Instead of moving the pulley closer to the motor (without touching the motor) you could alternatively add a washer under each standoff to move the motor 1mm farther from the wood.

It does look bent in the photo but that could be lens distortion. If the bottom of the nozzle isn't flat it can knock parts over plus the quality will be pretty bad. I suspect the nozzle was fine when you printed the most recent photo because it doesn't look like I would expect from a bent nozzle (really ugly walls). So why did it stop suddenly? I see those angled support pieces started to fail - that particular failure is usually caused by not enough fan. For ABS you will need at least a little fan - I recommend 30% to 50% for ABS. For PLA you will want 300% fan but unfortunately it only goes to 100% so go with that. Fan is your friend for keeping tilted things from failing. Or did something else fail? I'm guessing it was those 2 leaning parts? And you aborted the print? It helps us if we don't have to guess what went wrong - if you tell us explicitly what happened e.g. "the power suddenly failed and the lights stayed on but the printer just stopped" or "I aborted the print because I was nervous things were going badly" or "it started making spaghetti everywhere but I removed that before I took the picture - just to mess with your heads". Those tilted support things will be difficult to print. You want the bed on the cool side - 50C to 60C at the most if PLA (90C-100C if abs) - the filament also on the cool side - 210C would be good for PLA (but then this means you need to print slower - probably 35mm/sec) and keep fans at 100% (if this is PLA) until those tricky parts are joined to the rest making everything more stable. Every print has some minor challenge. Eventually you will know how to deal with all the minor challenges and will get perfect prints every time.

Checkout these great sites for building Marlin with various temp sensors: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ or https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ The first one has many more options but is an older version of Marlin. But on the plus side you can do a diff on Configuartion.h and see what it did (it outputs configuartion.h in addition to the hex file). The second one has a much newer version of Marlin but has fewer options. But it seems to have plenty of temp sensor options.

UMO heater hole is 4mm so make sure you buy a 4mm cartridge heater. These tend to cost more as it's hard to get much wattage in such a tiny package. Wattage has purely to do with resistance and voltage. The formula is: Wattage = Voltage squaed divided by resistance. Or W = v^2/R. First calculate the R value - so for the 12V 40W that means it is r=v^2/W or 3.6 ohms. Wow. At 19V that's 100 Watts. That will melt itself in seconds even if it's inside an aluminum block. If you can get say a 9 ohm heater (40W at 19V or 16W at 12V) or a 14.4 ohm heater - or in between then that would work for a 19V system. Is your printer running off 19V? There are many types of temp sensors: thermistors, thermocouples, PT100s. Most thermistors are the easiest to hook up to an arduino (because of the limited capabilites of arduino) but they usually are permanently wrecked if you go above around 150C to 200C so aren't appropriate for the head which typically prints at 200C to 240C. Thermocouples can handle much hotter than 250C so they are used for the UMO. The UMO+ uses PT100 which are made from platinum. Both thermocouples and PT100 need custom electronics. I don't know the diff between ad595 and ad597 but I'm guessing they are about the same. when using the thermocouples and the ad595 (or whatever it's called) the UMO expects exactly 5V=500C and 1V=100C and 0V=0C and so on linearly in between. without looking up the 2 parts I strongly suspect they both put out the same voltages for a given temperature. Hooking anything directly to the temp sensor on UMO will either not give the right temp or will self destruct at temps of 200C.

Regarding ABS - putting a front door on the printer violates a patent I believe. Hopefully that patent expires soon. You can print ABS just fine without any enclosres. But the experts who want extra good ABS quality prints always enclose. Particularly if you want the parts as strong as PLA parts. I've printed many ABS parts without any enclosure and they come out great on my UM2 printers.