gr5

Um - if ultimaker says it's "plug & play" then I agree - false advertising. But every printer out there - including the million dollar printers - need a lot of training. Like a lathe or a milling machine. This is nothing like a 2D printer. Hopefully some day someone like HP will get into the market and eventually they will have plug& play printers. I think anyone with a $450 printer will have EVEN MORE trouble with those in moov parts. I can't beleive people are having no trouble with the eyes - they probably just ripped out the eyes and spaghetti afterwards and threw them away. There may have been 100s of downloads but not everyone was fine. The cheaper printers tend to have "support everywhere" checked off. That's a cura feature also. You could try that. Personally I avoid support generated by any slicer including Cura but people seem to like it. Examine the part in slice view first to see if it makes any difference in the "eye gaps". I prefer to put the support right in the cad model and anything I publish has the support built in. So right there I know the in moov designers are not designing super friendly and easy to print parts. A well designed CAD support will work beautifully and snap off with no tools or simple tools such as needle nose pliers. Again - don't just blindly check "support everywhere". Look at it in slice view to see what it's going to do. And there are quite a few tweaks you can make to the support settings. Some models apparently are so different than anything ever imagined before that Cura may not create supports at all. maybe. You won't know unless you check slice view.

Despite many releases of Cura the last 2 years - even the versions from 2013 worked pretty damn well. I don't think there has been anything this seriously wrong with cura ever. There have been annoying bugs but not ones that gave you massive stringing. I'm going to go with the temp sensor issue. If the temp sensor isn't in all the way it reads a cooler temp by typically 5 or 10C but it could be more. This means heats up the nozzle 5C or 10C more. Maybe 20C more in your case? Try dropping the temp to 190C. Or try this temp calibration video:

I sell the 35W heaters here: http://gr5.org/store/

What's in my hand? Skip gave me a hand just for this picture (it's a pun in English). Skip brought tons of show-and-tell and we are holding a few of the things he showed me. Skip does lots of thermal forming - he tends to print everything thin and flat on the bed, then heats it in boiling water and rolls it around a tube of the correct diameter. More details about Peregrine and his hands here: http://enablingthefuture.org/2015/08/12/interview-with-peregrine-%E2%80%A2-e-nabling-the-future/

Here's a closeup - the black cabling is push/pull - very stiff - 1mm diameter fishing line. He has no elastics or springs as he can push or pull and the hand always holds it's current position with no force if you need to apply no force.

In the photo above Peregrine built his own hand - I think it's his 5th version and wow - very practical but look at those talons - very good for pulling a glove on and off his other hand. I think this is the most well crafted 3d printed object I've ever seen. ABS and then vapor smoothed, the leather work is impressive and he used lots of brass parts. Somewhat steam-punk - somewhat Renaissance style - somewhat modern of course.

I (right) had a great weekend with some of the original e-nable people. Jon Schull is the founder but he didn't come but his friends Skip Meetze (left) (a retired engineer doing e-nable design full time) and Peregrine Hawthorn (center) (one of the first people with a 3d printed prosthetic - I think he and his dad started doing this before e-nable came about). They drove together the 6 hours to visit me this past weekend and we had a great time and I "tuned" up their printers from barely extruding to as-good-as-new (we did thorough before and after testing to prove it). I gave them some free filament from Sander and some other minor freebies. Good times:

@jlarson - I'm confused. Maybe I read your posting too fast the first time or maybe I misunderstood. When I saw "um2 extended" I think I was thinking "um2 plus". The plus comes with 35W heater. The older one comes with 25W heater. 25W heater works good enough for the most part. You should be able to work with that. But if you installed the olsson block and are now getting these heater errors then the actual problem is more likely that the block is touching the fan shroud. Loosen the 4 screws holding the fan shroud and it should move slightly up and down. If not then the block is probably touching it and you should raise the block by tightening the round steel coupler nut. You can do this by removing only the long thumbscrew - front left one and sticking something into the holes and using that tool to rotate the round nut. But only do this while it is hot - 160C is a good temp - just in case some filament got into the threads. You want the block pretty much all the way up excelpt maybe back off 1/2 to one full turn. Or maybe you don't have the olsson block?

ABS has a temperature/density relationship such that it is less viscous at higher temperatures (like honey) and more dense at lower temperatures (like toothpaste). 260C is quite hot and dangerous in the sense that you can bake ABS into a gummy substance that will clog your nozzle so don't leave the nozzle that hot unless you are printing. You should get better layer adhesion if you print with no fans or if you enclose the printer and then you can go to lower temperatuers but this is not what you are complaining about so let's leave it there. I dont' know what is causing the "spirals posts" issue other than it's clearly underextrusion and you can get that spiral shape because the filament barely sticking out of the tube gets drawn out by the layer below so you get just a drop but it spirals around as each layer above it comes out further aroudn the spiral. Anyway this is severe underextrusion (getting only 50% or 25% of the filament you need to come out). But why only on the posts? I don't know. something about when it retracts and moves over to the posts - it must be leaking a bit and then there isn't enough filament to continue? Maybe increase your retraction distance to 3mm? I'm not a prusa expert. Don't have one. Maybe increase your travel speed? Try 300mm/sec for travel (non printing) speed so it leaks less on the way over there? Maybe you didn't slice those posts solid enough? Did you set cura nozzle width to 0.5mm? If not that might explain your issue but I doubt it. I have no suggestions for problem #2. Aren't there prusa forums somewhere?

That part isn't compatible with the Olsson block. Don't worry about it. Just put it aside. On the older style blocks (UM2 original blocks) it goes around the nozzle above the heat shield. It's purpose is when you have a disaster such that your printed part comes loose on the bed and is being dragged around the bed and you get a huge blob of filament after a few hours. This blob can get up inside the fan shroud. This is rare and has never happened to me but when it does it is difficult to clean up. The part above helps keep the blob below the fan shroud where it is easier to clean.

Also if when you are in cura setting the speed - if you hover over the speed it tells you the volume/sec.

8mm^3/sec? Well that's volume per second. To get volume of something rectangular like a box you multiply length X width X height. So for filament if you are printing .2mm layer height with .4mm nozzle at your usual 30 or 50 that's 30*.4*.2 or 2.4mm^3/sec (4mm^3/sec for 50mm/sec). Both much slower than the tested 8mm^3/sec and 230C but a bit fast for say 210C. Another example: .1mm layer 50mm/sec .4mm nozzle is 2mm^3/sec.

I could be wrong but my understanding is they print that ring at 8mm^3/sec at 230C and weigh it on a scale. If it is over a certain weight it passes. 8mm^3/sec is pretty damn fast. I recommend you stick to lower temperatures and lower speeds. I suspect you can print a few parts before sending the printer back. So why not do your own comparison test versus your existing printer - print the same part at the same temperature at the same speed and see how the printers compare.

Yes. Absolutely. Solid. You have to set infill to 100%. Can you post the gcode for this print somewhere and link to it? The last line in the cura gcode file tells you all the settings you used - there are a few gotchas in Cura you have to look out for. Also what size nozzle do you have on your printer?

In the filament settings - before you start printing - you can setup the filament diameter. You can also save it permanently if you want by doing "custom settings" set the values you care about and then "save" and then choose where to save it (PLA). i don't think this has anything to do with your issues though. Be careful removing the nozzle - brass is relatively soft. Make sure you heat the nozzle to 150C before removing it as PLA can be in the threads. You need about 2kg force at 3cm distance to unscrew the nozzle - more force than your fingers can produce alone but a very small amount of force if you are using a wrench. I don't think you have a problem with underextrusion as it looks like you have plenty of extrusion! lol! So I think your nozzle is currently clean and unclogged but it doesn't hurt to clean it out. Once removed you can heat it in boiling water and then pull out the PLA with a toothpick or other tool. You can also burn out all the plastic if you want but be careful not to melt the brass.

What wattage heater did they send you? Make sure you get a 35W heater - that's what is in the new UM2+ printers. 250C is a little harder for the heater to keep up with. Personally I just turned off this error on my printer . This test didn't exist for the first year that the UM2 was out. You can test the wattage of the heater by measureing the resistance with an ohm meter (with power off and heater not connected to power). Formula is Wattage=24V * 24V / resistance So for example 24 ohms would be 24 Watts. What country are you in? I have 35-37W heaters - if you order my store include a note that you want on the high end. 3dsolex has 35W heaters and I think even 40W heaters. Is there a way to block the fan from blowing on your olsson block? Is this with a large nozzle where you are printing lots of material fast e.g. .8mm nozzle? Or just regular .4mm nozzles. Some people block the airflow around the block using kapton tape or other wind-blocks.

That guy registered 3 years ago but posted last may. Less than a year ago. The first 2 answers make a ton of sense to me and is probably why he never posted again saying "it can't be answer A or B because ____". Do you have auto leveling because that could explain it. The circles could be centered where the auto leveling points touch and these rings are leveling compensation. Alternatively I like the second answer as well.

So I looked at these stl files. The eyes have a gap all the way around them. That's not really printable. The Ultimaker can print millions of things but it can't print things in mid air. You will get spaghetti. These in moov parts - many of them seem to have issues like this. The "jaw v4" also has a gap in the jaw. when it goes to print above it's going to printstraight across in the air and create more spaghetti. To 3d print these you need to do something unusual. Personally I would just remove those eyes and I would add a few pieces of support in the jaw to be removed later. But these parts as is are tricky to print on a FDM printer. On a powder plastic printer these are easy to print (but those machines start around $100k). You shouldn't have to babysit the printer. I don't know what to tell you. I could print these in moov parts but they require some modifications. I still don't know what's going on with some of your other parts - why are they getting spaghetti so early. I don't get this spaghetti - only if a part gets knocked loose which is maybe 1 in 100 prints. It happened to me a few weeks ago but was easily fixed by leveling a little closer. However you have some other issue I don't understand. don't mess with the front screws once the first layer is done. Are you sure there isn't a 3rd screw hidden in the back? that's a major oversight by UM if there isn't however you seem to be getting parts to stick to the glass fine so maybe I should shut up about the leveling. Maybe you could do a video of these "bumps" that created and then get hit by the nozzle. This happens to me sometimes on certain very unusual parts but these inmoov parts look fine and don't have severe overhangs I don't think so I think this "bumping" you describe is something that I don't understand yet. So I think I need to see a video of what creates the bumps in the first place. You explained in words but I didn't understand it.

Great - now you know - 35% speed should be your max speed. Trust me if you go up to 240C you can go faster than 35%. I wish you tried lower temperatures down to 190C. You will see the quality gets noticeably better at 200C but of course you have to go slower also. So what was your printer speed and then what is that speed multiplied by 35%? And what was your layer height? I want to confirm that your printer is not defective.

In the arduino IDE you click the checkbox which says "verify" if you hover on it. It actually compiles. Lots of stuff appears at the bottom - there's probably an error in there I'm guessing. If you look the same path will zip by about 100 times throughout and it's always the same - it's a new folder and that's where the hex file will appear *only* if there are no compile errors. Once you get the new hex file you can upload it into your printer using Cura - choose "install custom firmware...". Before you can do any of that you have to follow the other directions including selecting board type "mega 2560" and installing some library. It's explained in the README file.

Why aren't you covered under warranty? It lasts a year.

You have to cool the nozzle to around 80C or even lower when doing an "external nylon pull". I've never tried it but I know for sure you want a lower temperature for the cool phase. You can certainly burn all that gunk off in flame. But be careful as the nozzle heats up in flame about 10X faster than it cools when not in flame so you don't want to actually melt the brass. You have a huge margin between burn temp and brass-melt temp but still be careful.

Hey where do I get one of these tekbox things? When I googled it I found only electronics stuff.

Wow! Very nice experiment. Hmm. Try 255C no fan and try enclosing the printer? Was your bed at about 100C during this time? I find I can bet the air temp up to about 40C by enclosing the front and putting a huge box over the top that includes the bowden in the back. I'm curious if this helps. Although I suspect you won't get any better bonding than you already got. ABS tends to be more shatter resistant if you use it say as a hammer because it is just a tiny tiny bit more flexible and that's enough to often make a huge difference. For that reason alone people say ABS is "stronger". In my own personal tests testing the other way (tests that didn't care about layer adhesion - e.g. printing your parts flat) I found ABS and PLA gave way at the same tension.

I alerted Coen - the guy who designed this board. He usually replies pretty quickly. The specs *also* say you can put up to 5.5V on vref1. Which is strange considering the overview.