gr5

The extruder won't turn unless you either get the nozzle above 170C or you enable "cold extrusions" (some gcode - google it). Fortunately those "pololu" chips are very inexpensive. They are easily destroyed if you mess with the trim pots. You just want to turn them the tiniest amount at a time.

I see you are using dsm - that's great. Now you need to look at your part in "layer view". I'm pretty sure it's not printing the last few layers because your walls are too thin. To prove it, in Cura, start by setting your nozzle to .4mm if it isn't already. Then set the shell to .3mm, .2mm, .1mm and see if at some point the wall re-appears. Either you need to make that top wall thicker or you need to tell cura you have a smaller nozzle than it has but *also* you have to set the shell size to a multiple of the nozzle. Shell is a more powerful influence than the nozzle size but they work together and if shell isn't a multiple of nozzle size then it does really bad things. Now if you don't have the olsson block you can still print down to about .3mm thick lines with a .4mm nozzle and it works okay (shell and nozzle=.3mm or nozzle=.3mm and shell=.6mm). Not as perfect as if the nozzle is set at .4mm but probably good enough for a cookie cutter. I love that you are using DSM! That's my main CAD program that I use.

The outer part slides outwards so experiment with that before you plug it in. Now the problem is usually that the circuit board inside the printer is pushed too far to one direction. Consider maybe loosening the four screws for that board and recentering it in the round hole so the power cable doesn't get stuck in there. It should snap in and lock. For my 3 UM2 printers they all work fine.

What valcrow said.

gio has a um2+ so he would need to double the steps from 195.2 to 390 steps/mm if he uses the MK7. I don't have any 1.75mm filament so I can't really test my own kit. I guess I need to order some at some point. I am hoping to be getting some 1.75mm bowdens within a month from 3dsolex.

I agree - the "makerbot startup wipe" is fantastic and I *still* don't understand why Cura didn't steal that idea. I usually preheat the printer before I remove the SD card and take it to my computer, by the time I come back the nozzle and bed are usually only 25 seconds from ready so I just wait until it starts and grab the "blob" with my fingers and pull it away as the head moves to the start of the print such that it gets thinner and thinner and is just a whisp of a thread by the time it starts printing.

It doesn't get particularly hot so any ordinary grease is fine. There was a little green packet of grease. This is for the Z screw only - not any other part of the printer. You don't need any oil for parts with ball bearings which is the 2 vertical rods and the 2 rods that go through the head - oil can even make ball bearings have *more* friction. The other 4 rods in the upper edges need occasional oil - any thin petroleum oil is fine. Such as 3-in-one oil or sewing machine oil.

You are going to have to look at the first 20 or so gcodes to understand how your "normal" slicer does homing and gets ready for a print versus cura. Also I assume you are printing in "reprap" mode and not "ultigcode" mode. In reprap mode you can edit the beggining gcodes in cura (once you find the right gcodes to home your head and get into position properly).

S3D = simplify 3D. It's not free but it's not all that expensive and it does exactly what you are talking about. I've never tried it but I hear reasonably good things about it.

Oh. Except for one thing. I don't have any 1.75mm filament. :(

Oh and my other theory? Did you use the green part I sent with the kit? Did it fit properly? Or did you use the aluminum cylinder. The green part I sent you has a hole in it so you can see visually if the bowden is sitting nicely inside the teflon part. Did you look at it? Also make sure the teflon touches the green as shown with the arrow here - you don't want a gap. But I'm leaning towards the "um2+ feeder doesn't work with 1.75mm filament" thing. I'm getting my um2+ upgrade kit Monday so I can do some tests this coming week.

@giogiogio4 - I wish you pointed out this thread earlier. I think you may have 2 different problems. One is that you are using the 1.75mm filament in the UM2+ printer. I haven't tried that yet. The feeder that comes with the UM2 doesn't handle 1.75mm very well as the filament is squeezed between the bearing and the knurled wheel and there is too much space such that the filament is barely squeezed. I'm guessing this might be a possible problem, or the filament might be slipping completely off the bearing wheel and pushing the lever gets it back in place again. This was someone elses theory also up above. Maybe labern? Anyway your 1.75mm kit has never been tried on a UM2+ and maybe I should put something in the 1.75mm kit description stating that fact. I think you would have to print an iRoberti feeder to get it to work. Preferably with a meduza 2x adapter. And probably I'd print the iRoberti feeder mirror image as I think that's what you would need to do for you to not have to reverse the feeder stepper rotation direction. I am planning to sell parts for the meduza 2x converter. I feel bad for you because you have had such bad luck with the 1.75mm kit that I'll give you the meduza parts at cost if you want it. more info here: http://gr5.org/med/

Standard teflon isolators (e.g. from china) tend to last something (very roughly!) like 500 hours of printing at 240C but the newer teflon from 3dsolex and Ultimaker will never degrade due to temperature if kept under 255C. They typically only degrade due to grinding wear which is minor but still an issue.

Not a lot, but a few use S3D. Everyone seems to like S3D. Mostly. The slicer should have nothing different in configuration for the "plus" printers versus the older versions.

Maybe the wire broke in between when you heated it manually and when you went to print. The most likely thing to cause this problem is a bad heater wire. It may have fallen out - you have to stick it pretty far in to the hole in the terminal block. It's easy to mess that step up. Try heating it manually again to make sure that still works - what did you do "change filament"? Try that again.

>suggestions? Yes. Don't ignore the questions people ask of you. Please answer those questions as soon as possible. The knocking sound is common - that's what happens when the force is too high for the feeder motor and it skips backwards and you get zero extrusion for about a second until it catches back up. The pressure that the feeder motor can put out is impressive - about 5kg. So you have very high forces keeping you from printing. Answer my earlier questions and I'll let you know how to deal with the knocking and your underextrusion.

Do you know anything about electronics? Do you have a multimeter? Are you sure you replaced the temp sensor with the right one? You want a thermocouple - not a thermistor. This is UMO, right? With the green electronics board underneath - not the newer white electronics board (which doesn't use thermocouple but instead uses PT100 part).

Your main problem is likely the temp sensor, not the heater. It can't possibly get to 384. There should be a little conversion board on the head of the printer. It should have 3 wires going back to the printer. One is ground, one is 5V and the other is temperature. It should be outputting 0V for 0C and 5V for 500C and so on. So if at room temp it should output around 200mv. Check that signal - if it's good but arduino reads 384 then indeed arduino is probably bad. Much more likely there is a loose wire somewehre in there. Also be aware that the fan can cause interference especially if not at 0% or 100%. Keep the fan wires at least 2 cm away from thermocouple wires. There are minor edits to that board (ad597? something like that) that drastically reduce the sensitivity to interference from the fan but first make sure your problem is the fan (probably not - probably loose wire somewhere).

This friction is probably unrelated but should be fixed anyway. Is this a UMO or a UM2. With the UMO the most common problem is that the end caps at the end of one of the 4 thicker horizontal rods is too tight. Try loosening 2 of them - on only one end of the 2 rods for that axis. If this is a UM2 the most common issue is that the 2 axes are not perpendicular which causes problems in the bearings. This is easily seen visually if you look straight down. There are other possibilities though - what kind of printer is this? Oil the larger horizontal rods only - don't oil any rods that have linear bearings which includes the 2 X rods and the 2 rods that go through the heads. The other 4 rods definitely need a light oil. Consider cleaning all the rods - put some protective cloth on the bed to keep oil off it then use oil and a cloth rag to clean all the rods. Remove all the oil from the 2 rods going through the head. WD40 is a good cleaner but keep it out of the bearings unless you remove the bearings completely and clean them separately - in that case WD40 is a good cleaner.

One of the problems... Certain parameters are kept in a special memory called the "eeprom" including: steps/mm hours printed - ever (like an odometer) Um2 only: Z home position filament settings (diameter, retraction, temperatures) When you upgrade marlin - usually these values are not touched - this is so you can carry forward your personal settins from one version to the next and don't have to for example rehome the build plate on the UM2. Sometimes the values are incompatible and after the upgrade Marlin detects this and resets all these values to default. You can force the reset by donig a "reset to factory settings" but you lose things like how many hours your printer has ever printed. So what I think happened is when upgrading marlin to the newer version with a different steps/mm it decided to keep the old values in the eeprom. This problem may show up again for people with UM2+ upgrades. We shall see. It might have to do with if you played with your steps/mm before the upgrade - it might be that Marlin detects that you modified this setting and decide not to mess with it on upgrade.

What about scoping vref1 and vref2 on power up? I still want to know if they are coming up in a weird order due to your power supply or if the 24V overshoots to say 50V briefly?

It was just the Z steps/mm were off that's all. Since it was stepping 3X as far he had 1/3 as much extrusion as needed for each layer.

That's because you are local. Sander will eventually plan out what will happen each day and maybe a week before he will probably invite everyone locally to come meet just like last time.

I'm very glad it worked out. If you need nozzles don't go to me - try shop3d.ca first as he is already in canada.

Hi Peggy I will be in Netherlands June 29-July4. I hope to see you again! Sander is organizing some kind of community weekend thing like last time but slightly bigger (about 10 people are going).