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It looks like the power connector for my volt when I plug it in. Be aware that parts printed with PLA can not handle the heat of a hot car in the summer - PLA is great for outdoor use all year. But not for going inside a car - for that you need ABS.

Well... The ribs touching the glass should match up perfectly. I mean within .1mm which is thickness of paper. Or better. If not then they weren't sticking to the glass well enough. Or they moved after removing form the glass. Don't use "raft" for a part like this. To get it to stick to the glass better, 60C is fine (anything from 40C and hotter is fine for improving stickiness to bed so 40C is fine but 60C is better for other reasons). Also use some of that glue stick. Consider spreading it with a wet paper towel very thin with water. But just glue stick alone is usually quite excellent. The "BRIM" feature in Cura also helps it stick. I see you used that - did it add brim to the "ribs" where they touched the glass? Maybe the first layer wasn't good? Did all the ribs stick and it warped after lifting? You want the first layer squished a bit - the individual brim lines should be touching - no air gaps. So that's a possible source of having the ribs not stick to the glass. If the problem is the ribs warp *after* removing from the bed I'm not sure what to do about that - a heated chamber perhaps. Any ribs that didn't quite meet the glass probably need to have support added in CAD to keep them in place until the print is done.

Well... You have to first understand that FDM printers don't do so well printing in thin air, right? So the underside surfaces (except where touching the glass) doesn't look so good. It looks a little spaghetti - like. This is normal and most printers can't print *anything* in thin air so this is pretty darn good for surfaces with no support. Some of the surfaces have partial support and they look a bit better. But do you care really about the quality of the inside? I assume not so much. Regarding outside surface quality - you are doing .15mm layers with 50mm/sec and a .4mm nozzle. Multiply those 3 numbers together (I don't even need a calculator!) and I get 3mm^3/sec volume of PLA. This is difficult at 200C. I would recommend slowing down to 30mm. You could improve the outside surface quality by *only* raising the temp to 220C but you will get even better quality if you are patient by lowering the speed to 30mm/sec instead. And consider .1mm layers which is significantly thinner. The problem with printing 3mm^3/sec at 200C is that plastic is very thick at 200C (more like toothpaste than honey) and it takes quite a bit of pressure in the nozzle to get it to come out that fast but everytime the printer slows down or speeds up the mechanical springiness of the bowden keeps up the pressure and it over extrudes when slowing down and underextrudes while speeding up. People have tried to model this and compensate but the problem is it varies significantly with temperature and individual printer and PLA additives (especially different color PLA). Obviously you are probably now realizing that there is a tradeoff between speed and quality. Going to .1mm layers will increase print time by about 50%. Going to 30mm/sec will increase by another 66%.

Carefully compare your fan shroud to this photo. Pay particular attention to the gaps near the bottom of the print head between the head itself and the shrouds. Also look at the path in layer view. Does the nozzle hit the clips or the shroud? Also look at the clips. Some people's clips are bent up more than others. You can bend it back down with pliers. Don't cut yourself! I already did - they are very sharp.

The part printed in that video could have just as easily have been printed flat, then heated over a form and pressed into any shape. Still the concept is very cool. This wedding dress was printed on a UM original in flat sections and then shaped I assume with heat:

Sort of. He means transform the part flat, then slice, then transform it back to the original shape. This brings to mind Joris's only "truly" 3D printed cup: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:75735 which was done as a cura plugin that transforms the Z positions. Pay attention to the colors! Think about how you would do those colors on a UM with only one nozzle!

Here is a list of things changed with comments and you can see the actual change in code: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/commits/master

It fixes a few bugs. For example I think it fixes a bug related to setting the led brightness maybe and also customizing filament types. Maybe a bug related to disabling "move filament" feature after doing a bed level? Or maybe that bug still exists. Nothing critical but I think worth doing.

Also you will want to raise the Z bed before powering it on to get at the glass. You can either twist the screw or grab the bed towards the back and lift firmly.

I'm pretty sure it's both normal and correct. 50% means there is just as much plastic as air - that's pretty dense. When you hit infill 25% it changes the algorithm. I recommend you stick at 24% or lower for most parts. In fact most things don't need any infill but could use a thick shell. The shell is the most important region for strength.

Different countries use different power cords so UM has to make sure they ship the correct part with your printer. For them I guess that means it is something listed on the order.

The other method will work for future prints also. Go into MATERIAL menu and CUSTOMIZE the PLA settings to use a bed temperature of 60C. Save the setting and then choose PLA to save into.

There are 2 ways. The simplest is after you select PRINT and select an object to print, you go into TUNE before it starts printing and adjust nozzle temperature, bed temperature, and possibly feedrate. If you print at 50mm/sec and feedrate is 50% it will instead print at 25mm/sec. You can also test the fans at this point while in TUNE menu to make sure they are working as mentioned above but it is best to leave fans at 0% for first layer.

Take a picture before removing the covers. That alone might be enough information. Then remove both covers - it is very easy. The larger cover has only 2 screws. The smaller cover I have not removed yet. Maybe keep the two cables farther apart? Maybe there is cross talk? Daid understands the problem better than I do.

printbl.com "grape". I used it for these prints. And they are located in USA. And it's a fantastic material to print with. Very very nice.

Blue shows up errors more than red. Anyway there is at least 2 issues I see on the blue robot. 1) Levelling looks a bit off - you need to be squishing the first layer into the glass such that the traces are wider than they are tall. I think you need to closer the bed a little closer to the nozzle. Just a tiny bit. 2) Your overhangs don't look so good. This is usually due to the default bed temp for PLA of 75C. This is too hot. Try 40C to 60C for the robot but I wouldn't go over 60C for this particular print due to it's small size (larger prints might need higher temp. Might.). Other factors that can make overhangs ugly: 2a) are your side fans coming on by the time it gets 5mm off the print bed? Some people receilved UM2s with the side fans broken. Extremely easy to fix. You can force them on in the TUNE menu which is only available if you launch a PRINT. 2b) PLA temp might be an issue, lower temps tend to be better but anything from 200C to 230C should be fine for the robot. 2c) print speed - you want 7 or 10 or even more seconds per layer. If you turned off infill, that's fine but then you need to slow things down a bit - minimum layer time of 7 is good. 15 is even better for difficult overhangs. This is probably *not* your issue as I assume you have infill so I don't recommend touching this.

Sorry Martin - too much work for me. You have to download the software from here: Ultimaker2 marlin source: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin Then you have to search through the code for 260 and 270 and increase the limits everywhere. It should be pretty easy to change the code - it is extremely well documented. You might only need to edit the configuration.h file. Not sure. To build marlin: Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README- I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/

For first round I usually adjust the rear to be anywhere from .5mm to 2mm. This is very rough. I never adjust the front 2 screws on first round. Even the first day I got it. Never. For second round I try to adjust the rear screw completely with front knob. That's usually good enough although sometimes I turn the rear screw. I haven't touched the rear screw in a few months. For second round front two screws of course I only touch the thumb screws. Usually they need very little adjustment if any.

I know someone who dried his filament a little too tight after wrapping on a somewhat smaller spool and a few days later the filament broke up into hundreds of pieces. I keep my filament wrapped tightly in plastic bags but do nothing else. I have air conditioning in the summer and humidifier in the winter. Nylon should be kept extra dry but PLA and ABS should be fine in typical home environment.

3d printers are a bit finicky about quality. If you have chunks of PLA or ABS that are denser because they have higher melting temperature then this can cause nozzle jams. You need to get all foreign particles larger than say .3mm out of there as they can get clogged in the .4mm nozzle. So no dust. There are filaments that have chalk powder and wood powder that tend to clog all the time because it is very hard to remove all particles larger than .3mm. If you are printing with a very large nozzle - say .7mm then you don't have to worry quite so much - but even then you need some kind of strainer or filter. Getting good quality is very difficult and the professional creators of filament spend many months getting the filament to be of good quality and even then it's not good enough for some people. I think this is a fun idea but I expect you will get many nozzle clogs. Also you need to keep the filament diameter at 2.85 +/- .15. Can you do that? If it goes up to 3.1mm it will definitely clog in the Bowden tube.

Very strange. Are you sure it isn't a slicing error? Definitely email illuminarti the gcode file, I think he will see the jump in the gcode as well.

I recommend reducing the STL file size a bit so that Cura doesn't need to use so much memory making tiny line segments that are really just noise. You can get it down to only 100k polygons (probably even just 10k polygons) and still look amazingly sharp. Here is a very good technique using free software (meshlab - not to be confused wth meshmixer): http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html

Try printing a cube and see if you get the same banding. If you do, then print a second cube later and see if the banding is in the exact same locations. If so then something is repeatably bad with the Z screw or Z table. Someone said that something in their UM2 Z table was loose. I'm not sure what exactly. I've only taken it partially apart - not enough to see the Z nut mechanism.

I could make the same part as shown in the video by printing the part flat and then heating it up with hot water and pushing it onto a curved wooden (or other materials) form.

Ultimaker, and Marlin can handle this. Joris has already made some cups on an ultimaker that uses this Z movement technique. He did it with a Cura plugin that moves Z also: Very cool: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:75735 Pay particular attention to the coloring - Joris changed filament to other colors part way through. I think the multi color aspect of this topolabs thing is the coolest idea by far. Be aware that if your nozzle doesn't come to a perfect point there will be a limit to how steep the Z axis can go on your part.