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Those are so similar that I would say there is no difference. In general, oscillations are made worse if you increase P or I or decrease D. But your changes are so small - I would have expected P or I to be cut in half or D to be doubled in order to dampen those oscillations. Anyway, I'm glad you got it working.

??? Where does all the extra material go? Does it turn into a gas? Is the diameter 2.85mm? Maybe it is slipping? It must be slipping. Try printing slower? Some people say you have to print as slow as 10mm/sec with flex materials. Some people recommend a drop of oil inside the bowden but I don't know how to get it in there!

This post shows my print settings for the above - and I printed 2 robots so it took a long time: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality/?p=28588

The robot is not the easiest thing to get to look perfect because it has quite a few overhangs. I spent some time trying to get the perfect robot once. This was the best I could do after about 10 attempts (on a UM Original which prints as good as a UM2 I think as long as nothing is wrong with it):

Cool head lift will *only* improve the 2 antennas. You can get even better antenna improvement by printing 2 robots side by side. The problem is they are so small they don't have time to cool as the nozzle is making physical constant contact and keeps them above melting temp. With "cool head lift" or by printing 2 robots the nozzle moves away long enough for it to cool. These are tiny improvements as they only affect the antenna. You didn't answer the question about travel speed. What was your print speed and what was your travel speed?

Those curves didn't look too bad but it is definitely PID issue. My UM2 overshoots once - then slowly recovers. Can you publish the "old" and "new" PID settings? Someone else might want to try your values.

Cura manual is first big blue button here: http://software.ultimaker.com/

Just because the polygons are visible in CAD doesn't mean they will be visible when printed in plastic. The diameter of the nozzle is .4mm which means the radius is .2mm. So for example polygons .1mm across might not be visible when printed. Even polygons 3mm across might not be visible if the neighboring polygons are almost in the same plane. Meshlab does a better job at removing "extra" polygons than most software. It has quite a few options to try to make it still look "just as good" so you can play with those options.

Vous n'avez pas besoin d'ouvrir le bloc mobile - il a un ressort en elle pour tendre la courroie. Au lieu de cela desserrer la vis qui maintient la poulie. Une fois perdre la tension doit être égale et ensuite vous pouvez resserrer. Si cela ne se produit pas, quelque chose ne va pas avec le bloc mobile et vous devez alors ouvrir. Désolé pour la traduction de Google.

Yes, qty faces = qty polygons I don't know. Try it and save it with a DIFFERENT file name and look at it and *you* decide how good the quality looks.

Don't do that. Instead either increase temperature: try 230C for nozzle. Or slow down the print (feedrate). Don't increase material flow - that will end up doing the opposite because the feeder will skip (the black thing on the back of the machine).

Such large flat part will be difficult to print - it will tend to lift at the corners. You want it to stick real well so use the "brim" feature and use glue and keep the bed hot - maybe even 75C to keep it down. Also those 2 mushroom shaped things will have some trouble - I think it will eventually recover and print the overhangs but it will be a bit ugly and need some cleanup unless you add support.

When you get rotation *almost* flat then choose "lay flat" in rotation menu.

Don't be afraid to take those 2 covers off. They come off very easy. Inside that black netted cable are 2 gray ribbon cables. I would disconnect them from both ends, then reconnect them. I think Daid needs to see which side of the gray cables is the red stripe, right Daid?

UM Original or UM2? If this is the UM2 feeder you want the white squares all the way up to the top (minimum tension). If this is a UM2, consider powering off and on, then heat up head to 220, then push UM filament through feeder (feeder will not offer much resistance). Try pulling and pushing to see if there is resistance possibly in the bowden or if there is maybe a clog in your nozzle.

I recommend you reduce the qty of polygons using this method (meshlab is free software): Meshlab: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html I had a 10 million polygon part and then I reduced it to 1 million and it still looked excellent. So I tried 100k and it still looked stunning. I think I went to 10k and it still looked good but I forget how low I went. I was surprised how many extra polygons there were that aren't needed.

Bitte versuchen Sie, die Bilder wieder zu posten. Um ein Bild zu senden, klicken Sie auf "Galerie" oben links im Bildschirm, klicken Sie auf "Upload". Dann machen Sie einen neuen Beitrag und klicken Sie auf "Meine Medien". Es tut mir leid für die schlechte Übersetzung.

Sounds like they sent the part to the wrong person. Did you include your address in the ticket? If not maybe you should add your address to the ticket now.

Can you please do the pronterface test and measure how far X can move? I just looked at the code and it doesn't agree with official specifications: #define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. #define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below. // Travel limits after homing #define X_MAX_POS 230 #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MAX_POS 230 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MAX_POS 230 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 I got that snippet from here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h Official specs are 230mm width, 225 depth, 205mm height. That info is here: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/ultimaker-2 And also in cura "machine settings". So obviously the software endstops disagree with the literature and Cura settings. I'm thinking your machine can only go to 229mm or something and to get the full 230mm you might need to move your X limit switch slightly more to the left. You can bend the limit switch arm or you can loosen it and slide it a little.

I don't know what to do about your particular hardware issue but I can address the 7 hour print... It's not that hard to continue a long print. Even the next day. As long as you don't remove it from the print bed. Here are some general instructions: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints/ Specific code example for UM2 (UM original has different way of homing and different startup code): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5269-um%C2%B2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop/?p=46704

It is totally appropriate to mess with the infill overlap for this print - I would set it to 0% or even negative (if it allows negative values - it might). But make sure you put it back at 10 or 15% as if you don't, other parts will have an infill that doesn't quite touch the shell. And again, the solution might be to set infill to 0% for this particular part and set shell thickness to say 100mm (All shell, no diagonal infill).

Fixed!

By the way - even though it makes a horrible noise, it seems not to cause any damage. This has happened to me plenty of times (when homing on the left side - not the right side) and many many other people. The printer is designed to withstand this kind of abuse. Some people call it the "death rattle" when it happens over a few seconds.

Let's call this the "head". Yes, maybe, but definitely will cause steppers to lose steps. Many steps. Causing the rest of the layer and subsequent layers to print in the wrong place. The head is probably hitting the black block on the rod and not the rod directly, right? Is it possible the fan shroud is hitting the right wall? I believe the spec is either 225 or 235mm in X travel before it hits the "software limit switch" in Marlin. 1) I had a similar problem where I hadn't noticed but there are 2 linear bearings near the top of the print head that the two rods pass through - one of my linear bearings was sticking out the side of the head a bit - I think I bumped it when I had taken the head apart and didn't line it back up when I tightened it again. Could that be it? If so you can see the metal cylinder that houses the bearing sticking out the side of the head a few mm. 2) Some people have had their fan shrould miss bent such that it hits one or both sides of the UM. I recommend you donwload pronterface (it's free and easy to use): http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Connect your computer with pronterface up to the printer with USB cable, then command it to go to various X positions. For example G1 X0 goes to postion 0 (left side) G1 X200 goes to position 200 Then see how far it goes before hitting something (or hitting software end stop). Will it go to X225? X235? X240? Repeat this with Y axis - one of the axes is 10mm longer than the other. Not sure which.

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