hreedijk

Nick's instructions on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:208346) is to solder a 4.7k ohm resistor to R23 on the UM PCB. I assume the Ubis temp sensor will be connected to the temp1 connector? Just to make sure I connect and solder everything right: If I want a dual setup of the Ubis hot-end, the second resistor should be soldered on R21 on the main board?

Your welcome Owen, helping each other is what makes this community so strong! I found the image on the Internet, just placed it here ......

For anyone that want to design his own printhead, below the dimensions of the Ubis hot-end in inches:

I assume the 3rd in the list?

Thank you for sending me in the right direction Nick !

I'll do, only need to build a new firmware but still needs to find out what to change.....

My UBIS arrived today, hopefully I get it working this weekend......

I've done it this way on my own build UM (still work in progress): From top to bottom: > 4mm Heat resistant glass plate (print surface) > 4mm Aluminium plate (to spread the heat equally to the glass) > MK2A (taped it with kapton on the alu plate) > Heat insulation foil > Bed level springs > Aluminium plate which is connected to the bearings of the 12MM rods. On my UM original I have the following: From top to bottom: > Ikea mirror (print surface) > MK2A (screwed into a wooden plate) > Heat insulation foil > The wooden plate > Bed level springs > Original UM Z arms

I only have experience with the MK2A HB and that's working like a charm!

Yep, just around the corner for you :-)

Looks like it but got no experience with them ..... After looking at there site: "Wij zijn geen bedrijf achter gesloten deuren, maar een open werkplaats in hartje Tilburg"......

I've build my heated bed from scratch with self sourced parts but after a quick google some links: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46&_uhb=1 (Dutch Site) http://darkmatters.nl/product/heatbed-upgrade-voor-ultimaker-en-clones/ Connection schema: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1996-need-firmware-hex-file-with-heated-bed/&do=findComment&comment=14076

Hallo Sander, Kunnen deze lagers in de toekomst (en wellicht andere kleine onderdelen) in de webshop worden aangeboden?

Snap je frustratie Xeno, gewoon een fatsoendlijk antwoord geven is niet meer dan normaal toch?

Ben zelf ook op zoek geweest naar de bronzen glijlagers, nergens in NL te vinden. Heb de glijlager in 3D getekend en wil deze gaan printen in XT, eens kijken of het een goede vervanger is. Als ik aan een bronzen as kan komen kan ik ze wel laten maken op mijn werk, maar heb nog niet gezocht naar zo'n as.

Just found a website that sells Ubis nozzles: http://www.jerrill.com/shop/printrbot-nozzle/

Anyone has an address where to find a .6mm or .65mm nozzle for this hotend, preferably in Europe? Printrbot only sells .2, .4 and.5mm nozzles.

That's my plan also :-) Very neat hot-end, I'm going to use it for my own build UM. The only thing I need to find out is make it work with my firmware, but I've got some day's before they arrive.......

Just ordered 2 of them

I have the Cells Bowl already, downloaded it when Dizingof still had his designs on Thingiverse. Good luck with the youmagine alternative 3dcase, I'll make the cells bowl print another time then....

That's a very, very nice print Illuminarti !! 3dcase, this weekend I'll try to print the Cell's Bowl on my UM1 in high quality, I think I'll use Faberdashery's "Artic White" for that.....

Definitely not safe! The stepper drivers become very hot and really needs cooling. Like JonnyBischof said, there are some axial fan brackets, like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:55910 And another one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28498

I've heard Faberdashery will deliver on spools beginning of 2014....... Definitely give there filament a try, I recommend the "Bling Bling Gold", beautiful color!

I'm always printing with PLA from Faberdashery, PLA/PHA and XT from ColorFabb on my UM1, unfortunately no experience with the UM2 yet :-| . Like gadgetfreak already said, it's a little bit tricky to switch from XT to PLA. When I switch from XT to normal PLA or PLA/PHA, I always use the same procedure: Set the hot-end to 240, extrude a little bit of XT by hand or UM controller, change the XT with the other filament, extrude the filament only by hand (carefully !) until a tiny bit of XT is coming out of the hot-end. At that moment you can notice that the XT is already coming out more slowly then before the filament was changed. Then I print a 2 wall thick 80mm diameter circle with the speed of 50 and a hot-end temp of 240. (That circle a gcode file I always use to change filament, instead of extruding buy hand or UM controller until the other filament comes out of the hot-end, I'ts easier, quicker and more safe.) When I see (while printing) the other filament is coming out of the hot-end, I reduce the hot-end temp to 230. After a few layers (7 to 10) I reduce the temp again, now to 220. I keep that running for a minute of 3 to 4. Since XT came out I print one spool a month with that great stuff, and about 2 spools of PLA - PLA/PHA. I change from XT to PLA 2-3 times a week, always followed the above procedure and never had any clogs. I'm not saying this is "the way" of changing from XT to regular PLA, I'ts only my personal experience I'd like to share.

Perhaps RC means Rack Cabinet and MK meldkamer (google translate ' emergency room ') ?