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  1. It is a blend of polymers. No particle fill. I believe the satin finish, and the weird behavior where the material globs back on itself when you extrude into air, has to do with internal stresses in the material
  2. Hello. I haven't been around much lately, but I'm a pretty avid UM1 fan and run a US reseller for colorFabb: printedsolid.com. colorFabb tests all of their filament on Ultimaker printers as part of the development process and offers suggested printing profiles for the UM2 based on this testing. I've put a coupon code up for 10% good for today only UMCOMMUNITY
  3. Ouch. USPS usually does pretty well, but when they screw up, they do it well. Go to youtube and search on USPS delivery gone wrong. At least you don't have a dog who likes to eat Ultimaker boxes...
  4. That looks great! I've used Ethyl Acetate as a substitute for acetone to vapor polish PLA, but your process is giving a much better result.
  5. Hello, I'm a little biased as I'm the US colorFabb reseller, but I can tell you that all of colorFabb's materials work quite well in the Ultimaker 1 and 2. All of the development testing is done on Ultimakers (and a few other printers) and they publish Cura profiles for UM1 and 2 for their more exotic materials at learn.colorfabb.com. I don't have a recommendation for a good Canadian ABS supplier for the Ultimaker.
  6. I've had the printers set on vacation for my hub for the past month or so (preparing for NY Makerfaire, then a bunch of other stuff through October, bronzefill launch, etc) and it wasn't super active before that. I show a 10% discount. So, I'm guessing they're offering a 10% discount as a base to everyone with higher rates based on $$ sales or some other statistic. They capture so much data, who knows what they could be using for decisions, but I'm sure it's something good.
  7. It was great meeting many of you for the first time and seeing some of you again. I was really surprised by how many people from this forum introduced themselves. Such a great community! Pretty psyched about all the announcements and managed to pick up a UM1 heated bed upgrade kit for myself.
  8. They are very similar and are both going after that market of a really functional 3D printing material. XT is stronger and tends to have better layer bonding.
  9. You could do that if you were using a raft (does anyone use a raft with an ultimaker?) and can definitely mix it with other PLA based materials (plain PLA, woodfill, soft PLA, etc) for cool effects. If you're really really awesome, you could go into the gcode and figure out exactly how much length you need for support vs object at each layer and load a bunch of little chunks, then pause and load more. Or use a dual.
  10. doh! I did the same thing when I first got my hands on woodfill. Ran an incredibly beautiful print at 100 microns. Almost doesn't look printed. I got through the whole thing somehow, but then clog clog clog after that. A few months ago, esun launched an extruder cleanout filament. I got to try some out and it is amazing if you're printing with a lot of different filament types. It is especially useful if you're printing with woodfill or other filled materials. Just cut off about a 4" section and pop it into the bowden to push through at each new material type. I'm trying to get some
  11. Actually, acetone works on XT, T-glase, and PET+. Similar to the Ethyl Acetate with PLA, results are much more dependent on technique and settings than they are with ABS. I've found that a very short exposure works incredibly well, but if you overdo it, the material starts to whiten. I suspect that the amount of moisture in the air either when printing or polishing may also be a factor. There is a lot of room for optimization and deeper understanding, but it's a starting point. Also, this blog post was done with the original lower temperature XT. Not sure if I've tried it with the newe
  12. I really like the way this came out, so I'm sharing. Printed on an Ultimaker Original at full build volume. 0.8mm nozzle. 0.2mm layer height. colorfabb woodfill filament. Lighter color is as-printed. Darker is after stain with Red Mahogany wood stain. Model is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:438143
  13. Every filament is a little different, especially when you start getting to exotic things like bronzefill. The extruder test will help determine the best temperature settings for your printer. If your thermocouple is reading a little bit off, this will be very useful in helping get you printing well with bronze.
  14. I flagged Gijs at colorfabb on this, so hopefully he'll weight in, but I think anon4321 nailed it. Some explanation on what is happening and your obervations. I agree that for PLA you would want to increase cooling and decrease temp to resolve this, but XT is a little bit of a different beast, especially the new formula. It has a really high melt strength, so it's going to want to hold a round shape rather than spreading out like PLA does. When you're crossing the non-supported areas, it bridges well for the first layer you put down. Then when you go to later layers, instead of just spr
  15. Hey, thanks for the plug. I definitely would look into PET. XT actually is a PET. That along with T-glase and PET+. All three are similar but not the same I think a few places might be selling a generic 'PET' as well. I'm convinced that PET is going to overtake ABS as a go-to filament for the reasons that others have listed in this thread. Expect to see more options for colored PET come early Fall.
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