jonnybischof

I can try printing the mount in PLA. It's very difficult to generalize, because there are 100s of different PLAs. I have a very strong PLA here (black from ProtoParadigm), I guess the mount would hold up well with this. But I also have PLA around that would fail for sure because it's just too weak for that application. Don't forget that my mount is rather slim - it was designed to print with 100% infill and compensate that by making it as thin as possible. Some materials don't print too well with 100% infill, but that is an absolute must when printing this mount - if you want it to be as stable and solid as intended. I recommend XT because that means you would use pretty much the same material I used - and I know the result is very good with this material. I have done some "stress tests" with the XT mount. It takes a strong blow with a hammer to crush it... It even survives a good bit of tension without splitting. With PLA however, I've noticed that it loses its tension with time. I've printed an LED ring for a microscope that clamped securely to the scope in the beginning. But after some weeks it got loose and now almost hangs down a little. Now, I don't know if that goes for every brand / batch of PLA, but I know XT doesn't have that problem (being PET-G). So I recommend XT in every case. I don't recommend printing the mount in ABS because of the shrinkage. It would probably be very hard to fit the bearings and the hotend... The fanduct would surely melt if made of PLA. I think ABS, or maybe XT, are a must. I can try out some different materials, but that will have to wait a little because there are more pressing matters (like finishing up that documentation I always talk about ). I've just finished a second test with my ABS fanduct: about 2 hours runtime @ 260°C with the cooling fan off (small fan on of course). The ABS fanduct didn't warp at all, no change compared to the "cool state". So it should be safe to use under any normal circumstances. The mount itself doesn't get warm at all. The small cooling fan does a very good job here (noisy, but effective). I wouldn't print it with PLA because I have a closed chamber. So the higher the melting temperature, the better. I want it to run reliably, even for several years.

Did it happen just with this model, or do you have the problem with other prints, too? There shouldn't be a problem with my model, it has a relatively large bottom (and who doesn't like that? o.O). @Andi: I'll add an electronics How-to to my documentation. I am using all the E3D stuff (24V cartridge at 19V for now, later I'll use a 24V Power supply). This setup now only has about 25W instead of 40, but it still works perfectly fine. You can connect the small fan to a 700mA DC adaptor, that's no problem. The fan will draw only 80 mA from the adaptor. 700 mA is the maximum for this adaptor, so you could connect several of these fans if you wanted to. Thermistor is connected the same way as a heated bed thermistor (left and right pin of the 3-pin connector, center stays unconnected). You also need to solder in a 4.7k Ohms resistor (R23) and change the firmware so that it expects a thermistor instead of a thermocouple. I can understand you impatience, I've been waiting a long time for this to work myself. Now I have to wait 4 weeks for a bunch of Trespa plates to arrive (for my new UM frame) until I can actually mount this hotend into a printer :( @stiflerzx: Mechanically, it should fit just fine. I've measured the spacing of the x-y gantry shafts (the 6mm ones) to be 18mm, just like on the UM1. They also use the same linear bearings. What I don't know is whether it's possible to modify the UM2 firmware like on an UM1. It certainly IS possible, but the question is how simple it will be. There are very easy ways to do it for an UM1 (marlin builder), but the UM2 is not supported there afaik.

I'm working hard on the documentation! Everything will be in there. Testing the mount right now! The first 15 minutes of 260°C nozzle temperature didn't affect the fanduct at all. But I need to run the test for at least an hour before I can make any statement... I'll also run the test again with the (big) cooling fan off. Now that the fan runs at 100%, it should be able to keep the ABS fanduct cool enough to keep it from melting. But as I said, the test still has some time to go until it's complete. By the way, I've already found some small issues with the current models while assembling it. Will fix these tomorrow, or maybe even tonight. btw: Yeah, I didn't tidy up the table. Shame on me... /edit: Test #1 completed: 1 hour at 260°C, no problems at all. ABS didn't get softened up at all. Heatsink stayed very cool, maybe 5K above room temperature.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original Here you go. I will be completing the design with instructions, pictures and additional parts during the week. Note that if you decide to already print the mount, you will have to look out for the small built-in supports that I placed on the edges of the two main tunnels that hold the bearings (prints much better with them!), and another "bridging helper" (same as with the tunnels) at the hole where you route the fan wiring through the main body and to the center of the mount. I'll write up the PDF documentation asap

You can try printing new slider blocks. But you'll need to get the printer working first Kapton tape is a lot thinner than Blue tape. You can use that to make the bearing slightly thicker, should work much better than with blue tape. Make sure you put the tape on evenly. Cover the whole surface of the bearing (bushing, to be exact) with Kapton tape, not just parts of it.

Update: I've been able to resolve my fitting issues. The culprit was a diameter that was a little bit too tight. My latest print fits the hotend just perfectly snug. It's solid, small and lightweight. Also, it prints with minimal support structures (included in the model). I think I got the right fanduct height, but still need some time to test that. However, as the fanduct mount is a separate part, I will publish my current version today. Worst case is, people might have to re-print the fanduct-holder, which is only a 1.5 hours print. The main parts of the mount should be good as they are. I don't think it's necessary to design a whole other mount. It doesn't make sense to make 5 versions of the same part - better improve an existing design if necessary. The Fanduct (especially the mount) may need some improvement. I think the current solution has the following flaws: - The fanduct mount is wobbly and somewhat insecure (only 1 screw). It's not "bad" though, should be stable enough. But it can be improved. - The fanduct itself gets very close to the heater block. I don't know if it will work, need to do further testing. The thing is, Nick's fanduct has excellent airflow direction, so it will be difficult to improve that any further. Need to get back to work now, will publish the design at lunchtime

I've tried that, but didn't find any way to measure it in Nick's design, as he didn't draw a dummy hotend.

-> https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv5-printhead-for-ultimaker-original-3mm-bowden-version At the moment, there's a "placeholder" picture. It sometimes disappears, reappears, who knows what it does.. Right now, in my signature, I see a blank space (second from the left). The placeholder pic also showed up there before. But it keeps changing... @donations: I'd prefer the solution where you just make a neutral "donate" button (close to the Download button ), and when you click on that one, you can see all the donation possibilities the designer accepts. I don't know if there's any more than PayPal and Flattr, but these two will probably suffice anyways.

The most important things when working with Sketchup & Cura, are imho: 1. disable all "Fix horrible" settings, as Dim3nsioneer mentioned. 2. Fix all horrible stuff yourself Meaning, make sure there is nothing "red" in the "X-Ray" view, such as internal planes, or holes in your mesh (like missing faces).

Looking forward to seeing prints out of that bronze filament!

I have a problem: I made a design and uploaded it as a "preview" version. When it was complete, I deleted the "preview" files and uploaded the final design. But the pictures didn't get renewed, so now my design has no pictures... :( Is that a scripting problem? I've also noticed that this "empty" design now randomly appears and disappears from my youmagine signature. o.O

No way Found and hopefully fixed my latest problem: I went a little too tight on the tolerances, so when I put the hotend into the mount, it stretched and therefore the bracket wouldn't fit correctly anymore. I've increased the "bad" diameter and am now printing v0.4. I'm wondering what would be the best "height" of the fanduct: Too low, and it will bump into the print, too high, and it will melt and / or not work as intended. At the moment I have the fanduct only 1.5 - 2mm above the nozzle. Thats a very small gap, but could it be enough to keep it safely above the print? By the way: I messed up the v5 design on youmagine. I removed the original files and replaced them, but the images are not updated and now I only have blank spaces there... Will delete and reupp when I get to it.

Gute Ideen kann man auch ohne Doktortitel haben

It depends on what mounting bracket and flex coupler you want to use. I needed only a 7mm longer shaft, because I'm mounting my coupler very close to the frame. But I noticed that it gets quite hard to mount the motor bracked with such little space, so there should be better solutions around...

If you wait 1-2 more days, you can try my v6 design. I'm having a little issue atm which I'll investigate after work. But other than that, I never had any big problems printing it, and I use only minimal support (included in the models). Cleanup still takes some time.. There are lots of faces that need to be clean and flat in order for everything to fit.

Which piece do you mean exactly? V0.3 didn't fit as well as it should have - need to investigate further. I sent you a PM about printing one for you. Hooking up the electronics is easy enough, but it depends on what setup you have (19V UM standard PSU, custom 24V PSU, custom 12V PSU, or maybe a mix....).

The power is defined by your heater. If your heater "needs" 200W (meaning, if it is a 200W heater), then you have to supply 200W, or your PSU will be overpowered and fail (industrial PSUs just deactivate their output due to the "overcurrent protection"). * It's difficult to say what amount of power is ideal. On one side, a 200W heater will heat up considerably faster than a 100W one (especially past 70°C where my heater takes AGES). On the other hand, the UM original construction is somewhat fragile (electronics wise). It takes a lot until something starts to actually burn - it would probably never happen even with a 300W heater. But I'm not an expert at burning stuff, so I'm usually cautious. The MosFET will not have a problem at all. You can put about 100A through it (2.4 kW at 24V), and probably up to 50A without cooling. Theoretical limit of the IRFB3004 is 195A, but that's really just theoretical... Your wires, solder joints, and (worst of all) PCB strips will fail a lot earlier than the MosFET. *: I've explained this in detail here

It isn't obsolete, but I misspelled the model type: http://ch.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRFB3004PBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi5%252bqVgN3%252bWS8WtSECkw%252bUZk%3d The correct model type is "IRFB3004PbF" However, there are dozens of other candidates. What you need to look for: 1. package that you can work with. TO-220 (and similar subtypes) is usually ideal. D2Pak is much more difficult to solder by hand, because they miss one tab (SMD only) 2. VDS (Drain Source voltage) maximum must be higher than your heated bed voltage. 3. VGS (Gate Source voltage) max should be higher than 12V (OR you can modify my circuit, see below). 4. Smallest RDSon you can find (1.5 mOhm is perfect, but actually, much more is tolerable. I would take something that has less than 20 mOhms though). If you're looking for new parts, I usually prefer International Rectifier's "Strong IRFet" line. These are among the most expensive parts in their spec range, though... ---------- About VGS: The Gate-Source voltage is what you use for switching the MosFET. You have to be careful to supply an appropriate voltage, or the MosFET will not switch as intended. If VGS is too low, then the MosFET will not open, or not fully open. If it's too high, the MosFET will be damaged. VGS max is always indicated in the datasheet under "absolute maximum ratings". You should select a voltage at least 20% lower than VGS max. Then, there's another indicator: VGS th (VGS threshold voltage) which indicates the minimum voltage required to switch the MosFET. Note that VGS th is what it takes to open the FET "minimally", and you should always select a higher voltage than VGSth. Example with IRFB3004: VGS max: 20V (so NO 24V direct!). You could supply the 19.5V from the UM original PSU, but that's very close to the "absolute max rating". Not very elegant, and prone to failing sooner or later. (Or it could work for 20 years, you can never tell for sure with electronics) VGSth: 4V. So you couldn't switch this MosFET reliably from an Arduino's 3.3V output. I went with VGS = ~ 10V because that was easy to achieve, I just divided the voltage (19V from the UM original PSU) in half with the voltage divider you see in the picture above. Note that this solution is far from professional. But it works, as long as you take ESD safety precautions.

That's why it's best not to overpower the heated beds My bed would probably never go past 120°C even when fully powered for hours. But I may be wrong, I never actually tested it... I'm using a 24V, 100W MK3 Aluminum PCB heater.

If the 6mm shafts are bent downwards like an "U", then the printhead will scratch the build plate near the center. If they're bent like an "n", then you will get a bad first layer near the center - maybe even failed prints. In any case you will get inconsistent results which is bad. So either way - I wouldn't mount any shafts that are noticeably bent.

Wenn du in Cura die Ansicht ("View Mode" Button oben rechts im Bild) auf "X-Ray" einstellst, gibt es dann rote Bereiche in deinem Modell? Wenn ja, hast du an diesen Stellen ein "unsauberes" Modell. Sprich entweder gibt es Flächen im Inneren des Modells, oder Löcher in den Flächen (z.B. bei Ecken oder komplizierten Geometrien). Falls vorhanden, solltest du solche Probleme lösen, bevor du die Teile druckst. Diese Fehler verwirren den Slicer und können zu Fehlern führen, wie du sie beschreibst. Mit der "Layer View" Ansicht kannst du ausserdem eine Vorschau auf den Druck anzeigen. Wenn du bereits dort erkennst, dass etwas nicht stimmt, dann hast du ein Problem mit deinem Modell. Ansonsten liegts tatsächlich am Druck, dann brauchen wir ein Foto

It is a very big issue! If your rods / shafts have straightness errors of 1mm or even more, then you can throw them right into the bin (or at the supplier.. ) Imho, even +- 0.1mm error is not desirable (but seemingly very hard to achieve). Not only will you get issues with part dimensions, but you also increase friction ( = wear) in the gantry system if there is uneven movement. Many people buy 2 or 3 times more shafts than they would need, and then use the best ones they get. The best supplier for precision shafts (and other stuff like linear bearings, bushings, ball bearings, leadscrews, couplers and so on) that I know is Misumi. Japanese precision shafts rock, period They also chamfer the shafts nicely, and have very good surface quality and hardness. But they only supply companies, you can't make a customer account as a private person. And of course their premium quality comes with a high price. If you have the possibility to buy from them via your company, then it's probably the best address there is.

I think it would be a very interesting research! But is there a (doable) method to measure whether it works or not? And could there be a problem with combustible gases and high voltages in the same space (aka "look how well... *BOOOOOOM*")?

Is there any research on how to "catch" these Nano particles out of the air? I guess a simple air filter won't suffice and isn't a good idea anyways because it would need to be replaced from time to time. Maybe there's a way to "attract" the particles with static electricity or ionized air / water? Sometimes these solutions can be simpler than they sound...

Mein Original-UM quietscht seit einiger Zeit auch... Danke für den Tipp mit den Gleitlagern, werde mir das auch einmal näher ansehen.