jonnybischof

If you didn't destroy the mainboard by mistreatment (or how you say that..), and if your machine is still covered by the warranty, you'll get a free replacement. Do you have a multimeter? This will help a lot finding the culprit.

Layerversatz entsteht meistens, wenn ein Pulley (Synchronriemenscheibe) auf der Welle verrutscht, weil er nicht fest genug darauf sitzt. Bist du sicher, dass es nicht daran liegt? Die Elektronik sollte damit eigentlich nichts zu tun haben...

Tilting may work (or not) with a single, strong servo motor in the center of the body, which turns bowden cables to make the tilting move. I don't like gears much, but that could work, too.

LOL With this you could actually integrate the motor into the frame pieces....

Ok, but having separate wheels is just not as stylish as integrating the wheels into the rotor "bumpers".... It would also be ideal to be able to use the same motors for both the propellers and the wheels. Having four completely independent wheels, you wouldn't have to integrate a steering axis but could instead just work with different speeds for every wheel (much like a wheelchair where you just turn one of the two wheels to turn). I've been thinking a lot about that (some time ago) but never came to a really satisfying solution. But I didn't have a 3D printer yet at that time - so I actually believe this would be possible.

Yeah, sorry I wasn't too clear about that The awesome thing about the Ghost Recon Drone was exactly this feature - the drone hovers over the ground, then just flips the rotors down and lands on the wheels. This makes take-off even more difficult, because it would actually need to jump in order to flip up the wheels and start the propellers. So yes,it's probably a bit early to talk about this "special" feature

You should say "As soon as we accomplish all that, that will be pretty awesome"

That's almost it There is only one flaw: The wheels would need to flip to the sides (in line with the propellers) in "flight-mode". THAT is the real challenge which they obviously avoided And of course, the whole thing needs to be lightweight enough so that battery life time isn't impaired too much. That's another barrier which will be hard to take.

I bought http://flyduino.net/T-Motor-MT2208-1100KV brushless motors and http://flyduino.net/8045-Carbon-Fiber-Propeller-CW-CCW (The site is in german - but for the numbers it should be ok...). Initially I wanted to design all the electronics myself, but I'll probably drop that project and just buy an Autoquad or similar flight control and brushless drivers. I started the project wanting to design a multirotor drone that can both fly and drive on the ground (you may know that one from the Ghost Recon - Future Soldier game). That's... ambitious... considering the design only exists in a sci-fi video game. But at some point I want to get there, because I like the idea a lot and it was insanely fun to use the drone in the game.

1% tolerance is ideal. The commonly used standard component is a 1/4 Watts, 1% resistor. You will have a certain error (most importantly the thermistor value error and the 4.7k resistor error) which will lead to a slight temperature offset. Meaning temperature readings will always be 1°C too high, or 3°C too low, or something like that. If you have multiple Ultimakers in the same room, you'll notice that. You can either calibrate that or simply ignore it, the error is negligible...

I'd love to play tester! Bought some multirotor components a long time ago but never used them. It's about time!!

Why don't you just use some DC/DC converter module? They have around 87% efficiency and don't get hot...

Ich bin eben ein elender Overkiller :( (kostet mich öfters mehr als mir lieb ist...). Aber deren riesige Auswahl ist halt schon sehr verlockend - da ist auf jeden Fall genau der passende Motor für jede Anwendung dabei. Ich werd mich einmal bei denen melden, vielleicht helfen die mir ja sogar, den idealen Motor herauszusuchen Die Hersteller, die auch den kleinen Kunden helfen, sind ja zum Glück noch nicht ganz ausgestorben. /edit: 51 Euro Versandkosten für 4 Motoren (Warenwert knapp 100 Euro). Meine Herren, das wird so nicht passieren... Da kann ich 5 Wantai Motoren nur schon für's Porto verheizen..

Hat jemand von euch zufällig schon Bekanntschaft mit den Motoren von Nanotec gemacht? http://de.nanotec.com/produkte/153-schrittmotoren/ Sitz in Deutschland, Produktion in China. Die haben einen eigenen Shop, die Preise scheinen fair und die Auswahl lässt keine Wünsche offen... Dürfte auf jeden Fall besser sein als die Noname-Motoren aus China, weil hier typischerweise eher ein Qualitätsmanagement besteht.

Unter Windows ist es "file -> preferences". Wird auf dem Mac wohl ähnlich sein..

Wenn du Anschaffung und Unterhalt eines Druckers nicht mitrechnest, 0.5 - 3 Euro (je nach Material und Druckeinstellungen). Die Materialkosten sind so ziemlich der geringste Anteil an den Kosten, die man bei Händlern bezahlt...

Aah, dann ist das natürlich was anderes.. Klingt sehr gut, das macht vieles einfacher

Excellent idea! I will definitely integrate that into my UM black edition electronics! With my "PCB" method, even these a bit more complex circuits should be easy enough to do by hand.

That's exactly what I've done There's races on the bottom for the component legs. I've even drawn component outlines on the top of the "PCB". It's just not visible because it's only 0.3mm high. It works really well because the component legs are stiff and hold themselves in place when you bend them into the tracks. Now I just have to improve some details about the design, then make a top and bottom cover and we'll have a completely "integrated circuit". A bit bigger than other ICs, but basically the same thing /edit: Yes, it's XT. Had it in the printer at that moment..

@ Motoren: Wenn du einen stark überdimensionierten (grossen) Motor nimmst, braucht dieser natürlich auch mehr Kraft, um überhaupt anzulaufen (wenn er grösser und schwerer ist). Dadurch kann natürlich ein grösserer Motor schlechter laufen als ein kleinerer mit demselben Strom. Der 12A Motor läuft vielleicht bei 1A überhaupt nicht an. Aber passieren oder kaputt gehen wird sicher nichts. @ Gelenkköpfe: Misumi hat keine Aluminium-Gelenkköpfe mehr im Sortiment. Nur noch Stahlteile, die sich wohl wegen dem Gewicht eher nicht lohnen. Ich werde bei der nächsten Bestellung trotzdem mal ein paar Samples mitbestellen. Wenn du einen Kugelmagneten in eine Mutter legst, nutzt sich der Magnet da nicht sehr schnell an der Mutter ab? Die Reibung ist nicht gerade klein, und der Magnet typischerweise nicht besonders hart... Der Vorteil einer sehr günstigen Lösung ist dafür, dass man die Sachen einfach austauschen kann, wenn sie abgenutzt sind. Dann muss man aber die Gelenkköpfe von den Stangen / Rohren trennen können, sonst muss man die mit ersetzen... (Fragen über Fragen... )

I'm working on a little improvement of my circuit at the moment: Don't look at the pictures too exactly, I made a pretty dumb mistake on that one so it doesn't work yet. But you get the idea Will upload it to Youmagine with complete BOM when it's finished..

Are you sure it says 265°C or higher? Usually, ABS should be printable from about 230°C to 260°C. What brand of filament do you have?

You should check the wiring with a multimeter! It sounds like you have a slack joint in a cable or a connector..

I've once had a large, flat part that I printed in PLA. It warped quite badly, so I wanted to flatten it by heating it up with a hot-air gun and pressing it between two flat surfaces. It was a very bad idea, the part deformed horribly and was completely useless afterwards. Just repeated this with a scrap part for you So, baking the whole part / assembly will probably not work. If you can apply the heat only locally to where you want to fuse the material together, then it may work. You can use a soldering iron for example. But I always used that technique to quickly "deform" parts. Not to bond two pieces together. I've bought a 3Doodler and wanted to use it as a plastic welding machine, but haven't actually tried it yet... (The 3Doodler is CRAPPY) /edit: If you secure the parts in between two large glass plates so that they cannot deform, it might actually work just fine!

Here's a very nice troubleshooting guide: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide It seems like your printer may have more than one of the issues from the guide. You should definetly check all the pulley setscrews and belt tensions (it's all described in the guide). Just keep asking if that doesn't help! /edit: I'd start with the "leaning prints" point. That could be it...